Single use Noir – Kodak Tri-X (400TX) disposable Review

For years Kodak have kept it simple when it came to disposables with your choice of either disposable legend that is the FunSaver and the much lesser waterproof model. But in recent years there's been a burst of disposables. So lets meet their B&W film version the Kodak Tri-X disposable which is confusingly also known as the Kodak Professional Tri-X or the 400TX

Kodak and Single Use

Kodak have been one of the key makers of single use alongside Fujifilm. Fujifilm got there first in 1986 but Kodak quickly followed (ironically both models were 110). By the end of the 80's 35mm film had become the norm for single use. Following the bankruptcy era, Kodak Alaris have sold Kodak single use cameras. Production remains lucrative for both Alaris and Fujifilm despite the digital dominance.

Kodak Tri-X disposable, May 2024 Carlisle. Click image for flick original

For Kodak for most of the last couple of decades that's meant either the legendary funsaver or the waterproof model. But Kodak alaris expanded the range a few years back.

The legend that is the Kodak Fun Saver

Current Kodak Single Use Cameras

• FunSaver - The old 2 element legend that has been top of the heap for disposables for sometime
• Sports - the old waterproof version. Historically outclassed slightly by Fujifilm's equivalent although it has a higher depth rating (15 v 10m). No flash
• Power Flash - Should really be called mildly better flash as it's 1.2-4.5m range is only adds a metre over the Funsaver (1.2-3.5m). It looks the same camera as the Tri-X and shares the same 2 element 30mm lens
• Daylight - lacks flash and only one element
• Tri-X

All the other cameras load in a Kodak 800ISO film but the Tr-i-X use 400TX, the oldest film stock that Kodak make and one of their most beloved B&W films. The film loaded is in a slightly changed cartridge in that there is a sawtooth edge on the spindle in common with other kodak disposables. It can if extracted be used just the same as any other roll in another camera (although gone are the days for getting film cheaply from a disposable). It is DX coded.

The 400 ISO puts it on a level playing field with the Key Rival B&W single use and single use reloadable

Kodak Tri-X disposable, May 2024 Dumfries Click image for flick original

Design

it is a run of mill disposable with a black plastic body covered with a

Specification

There's not a lot to say. There are some nice tactile ridges around the push button flash and on the grip.

The camera itself is 2 element 30mm lensed affair with a fixed f/10 & 1/125 exposure set up. With the 400 ISO film this means optimal shooting would be on an quite overcast day. That's an EV100 of 11.67). There are no frills like cable ,tripod or wrist strap point.

The film plane is curved as you'd expect to improve focus. It does make me wonder if this is built of the old funsaver which has a similar if not the same 2 element 30mm 1:10 lens. Focal range is described as 1.3m (3.3ft) to infinity

Kodak Tri-X disposable, May 2024 Dumfries Click image for flick original

The flash has a purported range of 1-3m (3-10ft). The camera has a AA battery included to power that .

This flash shot followed the above image (and the third to be impaired by a leak see later).
Click on image for full size on flickr

Use

Not much to say about standard use. Wind on until winder stops, aim and shoot, repeat until winder just keeps on winding.

For flash there is a push button on front. I found this charged up the flash not just for that shot but the next too. It will dissipate but potentially is an issue.

When finished Kodak would prefer you to send the camera to a lab. In an ideal world that lab should send the used camera on for recycling. But most don't meaning it's off to landfill. Shout out for Brighton film lab in the UK whom are one a few that do.

Many labs also charge a premium for processing these.

Kodak Tri-X disposable, May 2024 Dumfries Click image for flick original

So unloading the camera yourself can save you a bob and you can also retrieve the AA battery. For the foolhardy you can also reuse the camera (see later)

To do so just peel back the base sticker. Then shimmy open the film compartment cover with a small flab blade screwdriver inserted into the slot marked below. The film should easily fallout with a gentle shake. You may need to wind on some more to make sure no leader sticking the cartridge.

Once that's done you can also remove the AA battery. Just slide the cover of the battery compartment in the direction of the opened film cannister compartment. There's a small arrow pointing that way on the cover

Rivals & Greta is watching

The B&W disposable market was a thing before this. It's dominated by the Harman models with either Ilford XP2 or Ilford HP5 Plus. Agfaphoto have also a LeBox disposable loaded with APX400 (another harman emulsion). You also have the likes of preloaded reloadable disposables from Harman and Lomography

Here's a list with prices on Amazon UK- I do get commission if you click on links in the prices . Other retailers are available and you may find cheaper esp the Simple use which is much cheaper on other sites. Prices were correct on 19/05/24

Camera| Film| Lens| Cost
---|---|---|---
Kodak Tri-X| Kodak
400TX 27Exp| 30mm f/10
2 element| £15.99
Harman XP2| Ilford
XP2 27Exp| 30mm f/9
?1 element| £19.90
Harman HP5+| Ilford
HP5+ 27Exp| 30mm f/9
?1 element| £14.95
Agfaphoto
LeBox B&W| Agfaphoto
APX400 36 Exp| 31mm f/11
1 element| £19.49
Harman
Reloadable| 2xKenmere PAN
400 27 Exp
(unloaded)| 31mm f/10
1 element| £24.95
Lomography
Simple use| Lomography
Lady Grey 27Exp| 31mm f/9
1 element| £20*
All prices are for Amazon UK. Please note other retailers may offer better prices and I do get commission off these links.
*Aanlogue wonderland sell this for £20

The reloadable are important. The Harman model is discounted heavily these days. Its's frankly awful to load but still easier than single use and you do get 2 rolls of reasonable film. It also has a the same lens as the dubblefilms show class. Although personally I'd by a dubblefilm show clone with standard loading for about £15-25 quid

Kodak Tri-X disposable, May 2024 Dumfries Click image for flick original

That's because even if you take the risk of reloading the Show clone will last a lot longer

For Those of YOU who reload, We probably won't electrocute you

Kodak says NO

So In my usual pants covering warning. I don't recommend you reload single use compacts and you do so at your own risk . They do contain high powered capacitors for the flash circuit that can give you a nasty tazer like shock or worse.

That said like the funSaver this one of the safer cameras. You don't need to expose the flash circuit to get the back off. And one method of reloading means there is little risk of getting shocked. But that said..

Camera reloaded with Kodak Ultramax 400. Dumfries 2024

I've stuck a my thoughts on this at the bottom of the post

Kodak Tri-X Results

Shot with expired (2023) ColorPlus 200. You can see distance shot are some what soft

It's one of those things about proper B&W films that you can get considerably different results depending on how you and your lab process B&W

That said this give results similar to the Funsaver. I actually think the reloaded colour image come out the best but I'm maybe more of a fan of a finer grain B&W or monochrome C-41 films like XP2

If there's a single shot that illustrates this camera's weaknesses and strengths. This almost is it. Shot with Expired ColorPlus 200 , it is in fairness at tad under exposed. But as you can see centrally the median range is okay sharpness but to the edges things fall off and worse at distance. Distortion is pretty minor. Click on image for full size on Flickr

Centrally it's pretty sharp in the short to median range. It softens a little on long landscape shots (>30m). Towards the corners and long edges it softens a bit more with more obvious chromatic aberrations creeping in. There is a little barrel distortion but not bad.

Using flash as fill in here. Expired ColorPlus 200. Dumfries 2024. Click on image for full size on Flickr

It is a pretty good disposable camera lens set up. With stock load I think it comes down to preferences. I think this is a narrow call between Harman's Ilford HP5+ model. I'd probably pick the Ilford XP2 for a single use still (but that is literally fry your fingers pig to reload).

Expired ColorPlus 200. Dumfries 2024. Click on image for full size on Flickr

And shot count, reloads & Flash shots ?

As to shot count. It said 27 and i got 27 shots but last shot had a light edge and there was a malfunction or leak with 3 shots (frames 23-25). The below attempted self was the worst. This was bit disappointing

This was the wort of the 3 leaks on the Tri-X

I tried reloading twice before I tried the second loading method and snapped the pin.

Expired ColorPlus 200. Dumfries 2024. Click on image for full size on Flickr

My first roll was an expired 2023 36 exp of ColorPlus. I got back 38 images (1 affected by light on loading so really 37) which wasn't bad. It was loaded using the simpler but light tight method. another roll I attempted to load using the day light safe method but didn't p[properly disengage the loading lock so only got 6 shots

This is fairly close but bar red eye effect is okay as flash goes. Shot reloaded with expired ('23) ColorPlus. Click on image for full size on Flickr

Flash worked well. It has limited range but doesn't nuke stuff. But As discussed there was an issue of it remaining on after a shot

This was the End (or is that start of my reloaded roll of Expired ColorPlus 200. As you can see the flash was still on from a few shot before even though the intent was not to use it. Click on image for full size

Final Thoughts on the Kodak Tri-X

Not bad Kodak is the TL:Dr. This is an okay disposable helped with a double element lens. That said the Harman XP2 model for me is still my favourite Monochrome single use. That's probably due to the film but that is one camera you don't wanna reload unless you have sadomasochistic tendencies. And film and process matters here. I was unimpressed with the AgfaPhoto Le Clic APX400 model but it's the same camera that I loved in half frame for as the**Ilford Ilfocolor Rapid half frame single use. **

But I suspect this is just slightly better than those 2 once you remove the film and processing. It's also pretty easy to reload. But a cheap Dubblefilm/M35 clone or Reto UWS isn't much more and are way easier to load

What's good

• 2 element lens from the funsaver
• Reloadable
• sensible styling
• Cost is only a few quid more than buying a roll of Tri-X
• It's loaded with Tri-X

What's not so good

• Flash stays charged
• light leak on included roll (but not on reload)
• It's a disposable
• It's loaded with Tri-X

Other reviews and Info on the Kodak Tri-X

This camera has been reviewed by the Likes of Popular Photography , Spaq.in and DCW. Random camera blog also cover this and interestingly used a bit of yellow gel taped over the lens on sunny days.

Kodak have a details on this and their other single use cameras on their site including a spec list PDF

Reloading the Kodak Tri-X

I think this is just a tweaked Funsaver so much of what applies there applies here when coming to reloading. But here's my tuppence (or more like 2 quid fifty). To reload this camera you'll need at least one small flat bladed screwdriver and one 1 standard sized flat bladed driver. A knife and/or scissors may be helpful in getting the label off and for the neurotic amongst you a roll of black electrical tape to go over the seals may be in order

Step 1 Remove old film & Battery

as mentioned before, peel back the sicker on the base (it's folded over itself on the base). The film canister compartment is accessed by shimming a flat blade screwdriver in the slot marked with the red arrow.

If fully rewound the cannister should just drop out but you might need to shake the camera a bit. If it doesn't fall out the leader might still be in the camera., try winding further. If you've reloaded with a 36exp cannister you may need to prise open the sides a bit (see below)

Once the old film is out you should slide the battery cover in the direction of the film cannister comparment to take it off and remove the battery

Step 2 Prise the clips off and remove back

Double clip each end and one on top. You'll need to peel back label to get at the latter

Step 3 Load the new film

It depends how confident you are what method to use. There are 2 approaches as we'll see. One easier but ma lot need to be done in the total darkness. The other more fiddly can be done in the light. Read through this guide before attempting.

So single use cameras kinda work in reverse. the film moves into the 35mm cannister as you shoot. You need to wind the new film round a loading spool

In both cases lift out the loading spool form the camera (shown here with arrows). It's removable

Slot your film leader in and startwinding around (you'll want to turn the film away from the cartridge as pictured)

I'd wrap most of the narrower leader around and then slot this loading spool back in the camera. At this point slot in a screw driver to the loading spools slot on the base and use to wind on a little more film

Step 4(a) Easier but requires light tight

You will need a complete blackout environment for this. But don't worry if you haven't got a darkroom or something like a light tight changing bag

I reloaded this camera twice under double Duvet (I'd not recommend a single one as more of a risk of letting light in). I close my curtains so did this in lo-light room. before starting I made sure everything I needed was under the blanket (the camera back, battery, battery cover and film door. I practiced doing this under the duvet before using actual film. I added a blanket over the duvet (probably overkill). Mkes ure yo take of your watch if the dial is or you suspect luminous.

Once my camera was prepped as above holding the film in place as above , I slid the cammera and film under the duvet making a small tent with my hands. I push in my arms length and then used my body to try and seal the edge. Once in postion just keep winding the film on with screwdriver as stage 3 once the roll stops paying out film slowly turn the driver in ther other direction and move the film cartridge into it's slot. make sure you feel the film perforation are properly aligned on the sprocket above the film gate. Keeping tension on the loading spool, snap back on the back, put in battery and the cover and then seal the film door. Make sure the sides and top are properly secure

Step 4(b) Avoiding using the light bag

Okay I've not successfully mastered this method. But there is a way to load the film without using a light tight environment. You'll need to practice the shimmy bit.

do steps 1 to 3. Reinsert battery and slip the film roll in keeping the loading spool in place with a screwdriver. Then slip a probe or similar in to gently bend out the plastic catch of the winder as shown below

Then clip the the film cover, battery and rear back on - make sure your probe goes into the big slot behind the shutter. The more adventurous of you will be able to slip the probe in after the back is on.

You want to gently bend the catch back allowing the winder to turn in reverse. Be gentle as you don't want this to snap as shown below (yup I goofed)

Assuming you don't snap. keep the probe in place and start winding the film on with your screwdriver

Once you've wound your film on. keep tension on driver. You now want to lift your probe over the catch and pull it back into position so it catches. It should click when you wind as normal. You may need 2 probes to do this but sadly I can't tell you that for certain.

The post Single use Noir - Kodak Tri-X (400TX) disposable Review appeared first on Canny Cameras.

#35mmpointshoot #cameras #pointshoot #2021 #35mm #400tx #analogue #camera #disposable #film #fixedfocus #flash #kodak #plastic #review #singleuse #trix

Old Meets New: The original VUWS and the Reto UWS

Or How not to do a head to head Review

The cult plastic legend that is the VUWS (Vivitar Ultra Wide & Slim) rides again in the form of the Reto UWS (Ultra Wide and Slim). And this got folks really excited so I decided to take the orginal out with the new kid

But how does the Reto UWS compare to the VUWS ?
It would help if I had loaded the same film

Reto UWS with Expired Truprint FG+200. Dumfries 2022. Click on image for full sized

In the Beginning there was the VUWS

The VUWS is a legendary lo-fi camera that's origins are almost as much a mystery as how good it's lens is. No one knows when this camera was actually launched exactly. Collectiblend is the first reliable page on this camera and shows an auction sale of one of these in Feb 2003 and notes the camera was made in the 1990's.

The VUWS arguably still more stylish than the clones although they are all the same underneath.

This would fit its styling with that 2 tone silver and black look. It's often talked about never being sold directly so example started life as gift or promo items. Some say left over stock was sold in Poundland in the UK and/or US dollar stores although those mentions are very much 3rd part of the "I heard you could" variety.

It became a lo-fi classic due to the lens and the unique effect (sharp centrally with some vignetting and some colour shifts. Frequently described as " the poor man's lomo". I only disagree about on the poor point. It has been sought after at points and you could buy a LC-A for less. The 2003 auction sold for $88USD that's over $130 in today's money. Luckily mine cost a more reasonable £28GBP last year.

VUWS with HP5+. Glencaple 2022. click on image for full size

But the camera has been resurrected more times Elizabeth Taylor's Marriages.

Vivitar so Far ?

Vivitar never made it's own gear. It started life as Ponder & Best in 1938 essentially been run from a 1936 Oldsmobile. Escaping from Nazi German Max ponder & John Best set up to sell Photographic equipment from that car and the business grew and for a while they were the Key US distributors for some of the Big Japanese and European makes in the post war period. Later the company began to work with japanese companies to produce 3rd party lens (and later flash units) that could rival the SLR makers own efforts.

From the mid 80's onwards the company moved through various owners. In the 1990s, the company's focus began to move from lenses to point and shoots. And this takes us to the era of the VUWS one of several plastic fantastic cameras marketed at the turn of the century. The company as we knew it folded in 2008 -although it lives on as a digital camera brand name.

But throughout the history, Vivitar didn't make their own gear. And in the case of the VUWS a HK manufacturer called Sunpet industries Ltd did. And it never left their catalogue.

Attack of the clones - the resurrection of the VUWS

And if you wanna buy in bulk Sunpet will happily make this for you. there have been several rebranded launches probably as the cost of a VUWS went astronomical for a while.

Superheadz Wide and Slim. Bit grubby after years of use due to rubberised coating. Yellow Peace variant

Most famous is was by those Japanese retro Lo-fi enthusiasts at Powershovel Ltd., who gave us the Superheadz Wide and slim. Like the Reto these came in a range of colours with names like Yellow Peace and Pink Dress and the legendary Black slim Devil. Two series of the the cameras were made. They notably feature a rubberised coating which made the cameras easy to grasp for a few weeks then turned sticky !!

Powershovel only did a run of these and ironically you can now buy a VUWS for a fraction of a mint Superheadz.

Superheadz Wide & Slim with Expired BW400CN. Blackpool 2017. Click on Image for full size

Other makes followed and went. The Vivitar Ultra Wide and Slim flickr group has a list

Jelly Lens promotional image

At the moment 2 are being sold the Reto and the lesser known Jelly Lens UWS which is actually being sold by Sunpet under their smartphone accessory lens brand.

Wiggle The Moment II - Reto is back

Reto UWS or is that RUWS ?

I've bought a Reto camera before. This HK based team launched a Nimslo style 3D camera via Kickstarter in 2019. the Reto 3D was enjoyable lo-fi Fun

Reto3D press image

This feels like a fairly logical move for them and put them up against the likes of the Kodak M35/Dubblefilm Show clones.

Reto adds nothing really to the design. The retail pack comes with a wrist strap and a instruction sheet linked to how-to videos by QR codes (a 2022 touch). The camera comes in 5 colours

• Charcoal
• Cream
• Pastel Pink
• Murky Blue
• Muddy yellow

Can't help think things got lost in translation for the last 2

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by RETO3D / Ultra Wide and Slim (@reto.project)

I went charcoal due to my experience with the Superheadz. I also warned my fellow bloggers os exxpect to see mainly charoal ones being reviewed.

Turns out no plastic coating

Reto UWS with XP2. Carlisle 2022. Click on image for full sized

Core spec & Build

All these camera share the same fixed focus 22mm 2 element plastic lens backed by a fixed 1/125 shutter and f/11. They are built from almost only plastic with the odd screw and metal spring.

The 2 element lens gives it better optics than other cameras in the class. focus is aided by the old trick of curving the film plane.

The f/11 aperture helps. If this was a proper 22mm SLR lens that aperture would give massive depth of Field. So on paper if a 22mm lens @f/11 focused at 1.45m (the hyperfocal distance - that's 4'3″ in in old money) would have acceptable focus from 0.78m (~2'5″) to infinity

Viewfinder (approx red box) is pretty central but as you'd expect only shows about a 70% of the frame. Reto UWS with XP2. Carlisle. 2022

And the lens matches up to that

It's plastic and flimsy. I'm personally surprised my VUWS still works as they do seem to wear out (winding issues). But mines is very minty. My Superheadz which I've used for years is showing it's age and you feel the strain towards the ends of the rolls. It's been a mantra of VUWS to avoid longer 36exp rolls and Superheadz even put that in their manual. Reto UWS doesn't.

The rewind system is a bit flimsy and likely to be the point that breaks as are the advance sprockets by most accounts.

The camera is a tiny little box essentially and is the smallest production full frame camera ever made to my knowledge. It's smaller than the Olympus XA, Rollei 35 and the Minox 35 series camera. It is only beaten by the Tessina but that has a square format.

Reto UWS with Ultramax 400. Dumfries 2022. Click on image for full size

Comparing the models

Yup they are the same. The only differences other than colour is the original VUWS has some mould marking on the inside of the rear door a a small China embossed on the outside of the rear door. My VUWS & superheadz features a serial number on the inside of the door that the Reto doesn't have. But that's about it

Visually the original is most striking with four different shades of plastic used on the front (all these have black rears and insides).The reto's front is almost a solid block of colour but retains the chrome front inset and shutter button. This leave the superheaz the dullest of the 3. Not to mention the the stickiest.

The 3 plastic amigos.

These are identical. The only differences I could find comparing these was that the original had the word China embossed on the film door and slightly different mold marks on the rear door and the superheadz one had a serial number on the inside of the door

On Test VUWS V Reto UWS

In use

I chose to leave the Superheadz at home. I know that camera inside out and it's a bit durty for these fine boys.

And they all feel the same. there is no difference in using them.

To load 'em you need to flip the switch on the rear door. Pro-tip do that with the door pointing down as it's fiddly. Trust me having gravity to assist makes a huge difference. I loaded both my cameras with 36 exp film. If I did that to my worn Superheadz it would be a tad nerve wracking. But both my VUWS and Reto were fine out which makes me think the VUWS was pretty minty.

When using you need to watch out for getting your fingers and the strap (unless on wrist) in shot as below.

Finger in shot !! Reto UWS with Ultramax 400. Dumfries 2022. Click on image for full size

You need to judge the weather a bit. 400ISO film is the safest to use as the latitude allows you to work on sunny days or dull ones. With colour films there is a little over exposure washout in bright conditions but that's the price for flexibility.

But on bright days you can get away with 200 and even 100 ISO film.

About the film well…..

Muppet Moment

I am a muppet - I decided to shoot one roll side by side and went with B&W not colour. Yup perhaps not best choice but where I was shooting it made sense. Worse still I loaded the VUWS with HP5 but the VUWS with XP2. Same company but 2 massively different emulsions with the XP2 giving finer grain…

VUWS & HP5+. Carlisle 2022. Yup more Grainy than the XP2. I am an idiot. Click on image for full sized version

I did load up the Reto with 2 more rolls of colour but not the VUWS. Colour film is not cheap and this wasn't a review I felt I could wait out.

So I goofed. James Cockcroft didn't and shot his Reto head to head with a VUWS. And he used Fujifilm Superia 400 in both, arguably the more correct test film. Check his blog post out as he notices subtle changes although I'm not so sure looking at his shots.

Results

Any differences if any are small. You get similar results as far as I can tell (using different B&W film types Doh !!).

Below a series of shots taken of same subject. The VUWS HP5+ are much grainier as you'd expect and the XP2 in the Reto has just that bit more latitude

All these images and more can be found here if you want to look at full sized ones

Carlisle 2022. Reto on left VUWS Right. Drag to compare

Carlisle 2022. Reto on left VUWS Right. Drag to compare

Glencaple 2022. Reto on left VUWS Right. Drag to compare

Glencaple 2022. Reto on left VUWS Right. Drag to compare

Carlisle 2022. Reto on left VUWS Right. Drag to compare

Optically both are pretty sharp centrally. They do fall off to the edges and there is a smidge of vignette (more obvious on colour shots.

Given the focal length and simplicity you actually get only a smidge of radial distortion. And whilst there are some chromatic aberrations, they add to the look.

The focus is pretty good from from the recommend close 1.5m to distance centrally. Below a meter things suffer.

The cameras occasionally fling of soft unfocused shots which I put down to shake with a 1/125shutter speed. They both flare although I would agree with Jame Cockcroft that the new one has more noticable flare. I suspect that is down to variability more than any lens changes. You'll either love or hate it.

Flare on the Reto (expired Truprint FG+ 200). Dumfries 2022. Click on image for full sized.

Reto UWS Cost and rivals

Buying the camera direct from Reto costs $29.99USD but postage can be hefty. Luckily plenty of resellers exist from eBay, Etsy to major film suppliers such as Analogue wonderland (UK) & B&H (US).

It's obvious rivals are it's mother the VUWS on eBay (last few sold between £15-31.50GBP before postage) and the Jelly Lens version. That is being sold for $28USD with free UK shipping although I suspect you run the gauntlet of possible import charges. And it's only available in white.

Dubblefilm Show

Reto are entering a quite popular market and are keenly priced against the Dubblefilm Show clones and the Lensfayre Snap LF-35M. these come with Flashes but lack that iconic ultra wide lens. The same is true of the reloadable disposable class of cameras. Of course if budget is a limit there a host of plastic fantastic basic cameras to try as alternatives. This site maybe lists one or 2 … I'd highlight the Halina 1000 (retro cool look with adjustable aperture and a hotshoe) or the more minor cult classic the Halina Panorama. But both don't optically compare.

Moving up the obvious link is to the LC-A and the new LC-A+ family but these are proper cameras with a Lomography vibe

Reto UWS with Ultramax 400. Dumfries 2022. Click on image for full size

Final Thoughts on the Reto UWS

Tl:dr " The King is dead long live the king "

The VUWS is back in slightly more colourful form with nigh on identical performance. One of the best plastic fantastic cameras ever made is back and not sticky this time.

It is just a joy of a simple camera. It's so small you can chuck in your bag with your F6 or EOS R and not know it's there. granted it's a fair weather friend but it produces images that belie it's cheap plastic shell. It just works and for the price of a 3 pack of 400CN lomography film it's not to pricey. The best lens in the class by some margin and that lens brings something magical. It is one of the few cameras to try even if you have no interest in Lo-Fi working.

Granted it will probably die at some point but none of it's rivals are likely to last heavy usage either. It just isn't quite as stylish as the original but better looking (and not sticky) than the Superheadz.

Still can't work out if it's the Reto UWS or RUWS.

Get one. It will put a smile on your face.

Other reviews/sources

I'm a bit late to the game. James Cockcroft as I mentioned did what I did a proper head to head of these two. Toby Van de Velde did a mini take over on Emusive. Jim Grey of Down the Road fame, took his out with expired Ferrania film . And **Random Photo blog **also covered this. They're all pretty positive but have different takes.

The post Old Meets New: The original VUWS and the Reto UWS appeared first on Canny Cameras.

#35mmpointshoot #cameras #pointshoot #2022 #35mm #camera #china #cultclassic #film #fixedfocus #headtohead #lofi #plastic #reto #retoultrawideslim #review #ruws #uws #vuws

Old Meets New: The original VUWS and the Reto UWS

Or How not to do a head to head Review

The cult plastic legend that is the VUWS (Vivitar Ultra Wide & Slim) rides again in the form of the Reto UWS (Ultra Wide and Slim). And this got folks really excited so I decided to take the orginal out with the new kid

But how does the Reto UWS compare to the VUWS ?
It would help if I had loaded the same film

Reto UWS with Expired Truprint FG+200. Dumfries 2022. Click on image for full sized

In the Beginning there was the VUWS

The VUWS is a legendary lo-fi camera that's origins are almost as much a mystery as how good it's lens is. No one knows when this camera was actually launched exactly. Collectiblend is the first reliable page on this camera and shows an auction sale of one of these in Feb 2003 and notes the camera was made in the 1990's.

The VUWS arguably still more stylish than the clones although they are all the same underneath.

This would fit its styling with that 2 tone silver and black look. It's often talked about never being sold directly so example started life as gift or promo items. Some say left over stock was sold in Poundland in the UK and/or US dollar stores although those mentions are very much 3rd part of the "I heard you could" variety.

It became a lo-fi classic due to the lens and the unique effect (sharp centrally with some vignetting and some colour shifts. Frequently described as " the poor man's lomo". I only disagree about on the poor point. It has been sought after at points and you could buy a LC-A for less. The 2003 auction sold for $88USD that's over $130 in today's money. Luckily mine cost a more reasonable £28GBP last year.

VUWS with HP5+. Glencaple 2022. click on image for full size

But the camera has been resurrected more times Elizabeth Taylor's Marriages.

Vivitar so Far ?

Vivitar never made it's own gear. It started life as Ponder & Best in 1938 essentially been run from a 1936 Oldsmobile. Escaping from Nazi German Max ponder & John Best set up to sell Photographic equipment from that car and the business grew and for a while they were the Key US distributors for some of the Big Japanese and European makes in the post war period. Later the company began to work with japanese companies to produce 3rd party lens (and later flash units) that could rival the SLR makers own efforts.

From the mid 80's onwards the company moved through various owners. In the 1990s, the company's focus began to move from lenses to point and shoots. And this takes us to the era of the VUWS one of several plastic fantastic cameras marketed at the turn of the century. The company as we knew it folded in 2008 -although it lives on as a digital camera brand name.

But throughout the history, Vivitar didn't make their own gear. And in the case of the VUWS a HK manufacturer called Sunpet industries Ltd did. And it never left their catalogue.

Attack of the clones - the resurrection of the VUWS

And if you wanna buy in bulk Sunpet will happily make this for you. there have been several rebranded launches probably as the cost of a VUWS went astronomical for a while.

Superheadz Wide and Slim. Bit grubby after years of use due to rubberised coating. Yellow Peace variant

Most famous is was by those Japanese retro Lo-fi enthusiasts at Powershovel Ltd., who gave us the Superheadz Wide and slim. Like the Reto these came in a range of colours with names like Yellow Peace and Pink Dress and the legendary Black slim Devil. Two series of the the cameras were made. They notably feature a rubberised coating which made the cameras easy to grasp for a few weeks then turned sticky !!

Powershovel only did a run of these and ironically you can now buy a VUWS for a fraction of a mint Superheadz.

Superheadz Wide & Slim with Expired BW400CN. Blackpool 2017. Click on Image for full size

Other makes followed and went. The Vivitar Ultra Wide and Slim flickr group has a list

Jelly Lens promotional image

At the moment 2 are being sold the Reto and the lesser known Jelly Lens UWS which is actually being sold by Sunpet under their smartphone accessory lens brand.

Wiggle The Moment II - Reto is back

Reto UWS or is that RUWS ?

I've bought a Reto camera before. This HK based team launched a Nimslo style 3D camera via Kickstarter in 2019. the Reto 3D was enjoyable lo-fi Fun

Reto3D press image

This feels like a fairly logical move for them and put them up against the likes of the Kodak M35/Dubblefilm Show clones.

Reto adds nothing really to the design. The retail pack comes with a wrist strap and a instruction sheet linked to how-to videos by QR codes (a 2022 touch). The camera comes in 5 colours

• Charcoal
• Cream
• Pastel Pink
• Murky Blue
• Muddy yellow

Can't help think things got lost in translation for the last 2

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A post shared by RETO3D / Ultra Wide and Slim (@reto.project)

I went charcoal due to my experience with the Superheadz. I also warned my fellow bloggers os exxpect to see mainly charoal ones being reviewed.

Turns out no plastic coating

Reto UWS with XP2. Carlisle 2022. Click on image for full sized

Core spec & Build

All these camera share the same fixed focus 22mm 2 element plastic lens backed by a fixed 1/125 shutter and f/11. They are built from almost only plastic with the odd screw and metal spring.

The 2 element lens gives it better optics than other cameras in the class. focus is aided by the old trick of curving the film plane.

The f/11 aperture helps. If this was a proper 22mm SLR lens that aperture would give massive depth of Field. So on paper if a 22mm lens @f/11 focused at 1.45m (the hyperfocal distance - that's 4'3″ in in old money) would have acceptable focus from 0.78m (~2'5″) to infinity

Viewfinder (approx red box) is pretty central but as you'd expect only shows about a 70% of the frame. Reto UWS with XP2. Carlisle. 2022

And the lens matches up to that

It's plastic and flimsy. I'm personally surprised my VUWS still works as they do seem to wear out (winding issues). But mines is very minty. My Superheadz which I've used for years is showing it's age and you feel the strain towards the ends of the rolls. It's been a mantra of VUWS to avoid longer 36exp rolls and Superheadz even put that in their manual. Reto UWS doesn't.

The rewind system is a bit flimsy and likely to be the point that breaks as are the advance sprockets by most accounts.

The camera is a tiny little box essentially and is the smallest production full frame camera ever made to my knowledge. It's smaller than the Olympus XA, Rollei 35 and the Minox 35 series camera. It is only beaten by the Tessina but that has a square format.

Reto UWS with Ultramax 400. Dumfries 2022. Click on image for full size

Comparing the models

Yup they are the same. The only differences other than colour is the original VUWS has some mould marking on the inside of the rear door a a small China embossed on the outside of the rear door. My VUWS & superheadz features a serial number on the inside of the door that the Reto doesn't have. But that's about it

Visually the original is most striking with four different shades of plastic used on the front (all these have black rears and insides).The reto's front is almost a solid block of colour but retains the chrome front inset and shutter button. This leave the superheaz the dullest of the 3. Not to mention the the stickiest.

The 3 plastic amigos.

These are identical. The only differences I could find comparing these was that the original had the word China embossed on the film door and slightly different mold marks on the rear door and the superheadz one had a serial number on the inside of the door

On Test VUWS V Reto UWS

In use

I chose to leave the Superheadz at home. I know that camera inside out and it's a bit durty for these fine boys.

And they all feel the same. there is no difference in using them.

To load 'em you need to flip the switch on the rear door. Pro-tip do that with the door pointing down as it's fiddly. Trust me having gravity to assist makes a huge difference. I loaded both my cameras with 36 exp film. If I did that to my worn Superheadz it would be a tad nerve wracking. But both my VUWS and Reto were fine out which makes me think the VUWS was pretty minty.

When using you need to watch out for getting your fingers and the strap (unless on wrist) in shot as below.

Finger in shot !! Reto UWS with Ultramax 400. Dumfries 2022. Click on image for full size

You need to judge the weather a bit. 400ISO film is the safest to use as the latitude allows you to work on sunny days or dull ones. With colour films there is a little over exposure washout in bright conditions but that's the price for flexibility.

But on bright days you can get away with 200 and even 100 ISO film.

About the film well…..

Muppet Moment

I am a muppet - I decided to shoot one roll side by side and went with B&W not colour. Yup perhaps not best choice but where I was shooting it made sense. Worse still I loaded the VUWS with HP5 but the VUWS with XP2. Same company but 2 massively different emulsions with the XP2 giving finer grain…

VUWS & HP5+. Carlisle 2022. Yup more Grainy than the XP2. I am an idiot. Click on image for full sized version

I did load up the Reto with 2 more rolls of colour but not the VUWS. Colour film is not cheap and this wasn't a review I felt I could wait out.

So I goofed. James Cockcroft didn't and shot his Reto head to head with a VUWS. And he used Fujifilm Superia 400 in both, arguably the more correct test film. Check his blog post out as he notices subtle changes although I'm not so sure looking at his shots.

Results

Any differences if any are small. You get similar results as far as I can tell (using different B&W film types Doh !!).

Below a series of shots taken of same subject. The VUWS HP5+ are much grainier as you'd expect and the XP2 in the Reto has just that bit more latitude

All these images and more can be found here if you want to look at full sized ones

Carlisle 2022. Reto on left VUWS Right. Drag to compare

Carlisle 2022. Reto on left VUWS Right. Drag to compare

Glencaple 2022. Reto on left VUWS Right. Drag to compare

Glencaple 2022. Reto on left VUWS Right. Drag to compare

Carlisle 2022. Reto on left VUWS Right. Drag to compare

Optically both are pretty sharp centrally. They do fall off to the edges and there is a smidge of vignette (more obvious on colour shots.

Given the focal length and simplicity you actually get only a smidge of radial distortion. And whilst there are some chromatic aberrations, they add to the look.

The focus is pretty good from from the recommend close 1.5m to distance centrally. Below a meter things suffer.

The cameras occasionally fling of soft unfocused shots which I put down to shake with a 1/125shutter speed. They both flare although I would agree with Jame Cockcroft that the new one has more noticable flare. I suspect that is down to variability more than any lens changes. You'll either love or hate it.

Flare on the Reto (expired Truprint FG+ 200). Dumfries 2022. Click on image for full sized.

Reto UWS Cost and rivals

Buying the camera direct from Reto costs $29.99USD but postage can be hefty. Luckily plenty of resellers exist from eBay, Etsy to major film suppliers such as Analogue wonderland (UK) & B&H (US).

It's obvious rivals are it's mother the VUWS on eBay (last few sold between £15-31.50GBP before postage) and the Jelly Lens version. That is being sold for $28USD with free UK shipping although I suspect you run the gauntlet of possible import charges. And it's only available in white.

Dubblefilm Show

Reto are entering a quite popular market and are keenly priced against the Dubblefilm Show clones and the Lensfayre Snap LF-35M. these come with Flashes but lack that iconic ultra wide lens. The same is true of the reloadable disposable class of cameras. Of course if budget is a limit there a host of plastic fantastic basic cameras to try as alternatives. This site maybe lists one or 2 … I'd highlight the Halina 1000 (retro cool look with adjustable aperture and a hotshoe) or the more minor cult classic the Halina Panorama. But both don't optically compare.

Moving up the obvious link is to the LC-A and the new LC-A+ family but these are proper cameras with a Lomography vibe

Reto UWS with Ultramax 400. Dumfries 2022. Click on image for full size

Final Thoughts on the Reto UWS

Tl:dr " The King is dead long live the king "

The VUWS is back in slightly more colourful form with nigh on identical performance. One of the best plastic fantastic cameras ever made is back and not sticky this time.

It is just a joy of a simple camera. It's so small you can chuck in your bag with your F6 or EOS R and not know it's there. granted it's a fair weather friend but it produces images that belie it's cheap plastic shell. It just works and for the price of a 3 pack of 400CN lomography film it's not to pricey. The best lens in the class by some margin and that lens brings something magical. It is one of the few cameras to try even if you have no interest in Lo-Fi working.

Granted it will probably die at some point but none of it's rivals are likely to last heavy usage either. It just isn't quite as stylish as the original but better looking (and not sticky) than the Superheadz.

Still can't work out if it's the Reto UWS or RUWS.

Get one. It will put a smile on your face.

Other reviews/sources

I'm a bit late to the game. James Cockcroft as I mentioned did what I did a proper head to head of these two. Toby Van de Velde did a mini take over on Emusive. Jim Grey of Down the Road fame, took his out with expired Ferrania film . And **Random Photo blog **also covered this. They're all pretty positive but have different takes.

The post Old Meets New: The original VUWS and the Reto UWS appeared first on Canny Cameras.

#35mmpointshoot #cameras #pointshoot #2022 #35mm #camera #china #cultclassic #film #fixedfocus #headtohead #lofi #plastic #reto #retoultrawideslim #review #ruws #uws #vuws

The Eco Warrior- The Lensfayre Snap LF-35M Review

Right at the end of COP 26 Summit, the launch of the Lensfayre Snap LF-35M might at first appear to be a bit late to the party. The plastic simple camera market has mushroomed since the launch of the Kodak M35 and the Dubblefilm Show. But unlike its rivals this isn't a mere clone and bring some serious Eco cred to the market place.

LensFayre Snap LF-35M with some slight expired Fujifilm C200 (Geek Squad). Carlisle Airport. Sept 2021. Click on image for full scale.

LensFayre got in touch in early September and asked if I wanted to try out a pre-production sample of their camera. I'm always happy to get a freebie but I did wonder if this would be just yet another clone of the Dubblefilm or Kodak.

Turns out it isn't and actually this camera brings a few new tricks to the game.

LensFayre ?

I'll confess until they got in touch I'd not heard of them either. But this Nottingham based company set up just a last year sells second hand cameras on the likes of Depop and Etsy. It's the brain child of Alecia and Dan - 2 creatives whom are better known for their work elsewhere. Dan is a professional photog with a history of working with various News outlets and publications such as Time and Wired and you probably have seen his montage image of gloves during the pandemic in likes of National Geographic and BBC News Online.

They kindly sent me the pre-production model of the camera with the battery and a single roll of film (along with some sweets that my kids nicked in seconds), but beyond that they've not interfered. I've used (and pay for) my own usual lab AG Photolab for the D&P and scanning. LenFayre have seen this post and haven't asked for any tweaks other than confirming the price and they've had no editorial control.

All images taken on the camera are shown as scanned by AG Photo.

LensFayre Snap LF-35M with XP2. Carlisle 2021. Click on image to see on Flickr.

Entering a Crowded Field

If Alecia had got in touch in 2019 the market would have been ripe for the taking. The focus was on reloadable disposables back then for new lo-fi cameras. But they are a pain in the proverbial to load and suffer a bit for it. The game changed in September 2019 with the Asian launch of Sino promise's Kodak M35. I confess at the time I ignored this. It looked like a colourful version of the Harman reloadable which whilst having a good lens (a precursor of the simple use cameras to come) had a truly awful loading mechanism even by reloadable standards.

But the M35 had a more standard reloading system and the same lens and was the first new generation of simple use cameras. The idea of a cheap plastic film camera with a fixed lens and settings wasn't new. Haking (aka Halina), Vivitar, Concord, Haminex et al did very well with similar cameras from the 80's on. But this was the first model to appear in years and trigger the boom during 2020 and 2021.

LensFayre Snap LF-35M with Kodak Ultramax 400. Carlisle 2021. Click on Image for Original on Flickr.

The Dubblefilm Show perhaps epitomises the class and indeed most of the models that have followed are the same camera made by the same Chinese company with just a different badge and subtle styling differences. So you now have models from Ilford, Agfaphoto and a range of new or no brand cameras that are identical. Only the Kodak M35 and the later M38 differ in appearance but that's just superficial styling,

LenFayre Snap LF-35M (r) beside the similar but different Agfaphoto analogue (t) and Dubblefilm Show (b)

So it's a crowded market already. But lensFayre isn't made in the same factory and it has a few tricks up it's sleeve

Styling of the Lensfayre LF-35M

LensFayre Snap LF-35M

Although at first glance this appears to be a Dubblefilm Show clone made with a white body plastic frontage. But there's a more going on.

6 more of the sticker designs, Promotional image provided by Lensfayre

The camera will be available with a range of body stickers. Two will be supplied in each retail pack from a choice of ten at launch. and you'll be able to buy packs if you want afterwards.

Stickers for the Snap

But look beyond the front styling and you'll see the at this is subtly different. The fixed focus 1 element plastic lens is notably wider than rivals at 28mm. Unlike it's rivals aperture does not alter with turning on the flash. It stays fixed at f/8 married to a 1/120 shutter. That's wider than it's rivals which shoot nearer f/11. The camera also uses AA batteries to power it's manually triggered flash compared to the AAA used in the Dubblefilm et al.

Toplates of the (l-r) Dubblefilm Show, Agfaphoto Analogue and the LensFayre snap LF-35M. Note how the Dubblefilm and Agafphoto while subtly different in styling have similar positioned shutter buttons and film counters. The LensFayre differs considerably and is slightly larger.

Although the camera has a curved film plane like it's rivals, there are obvious differences. Notably the top plate is subtly different and as is the rear door. The film compartment is also different in construction with a rounded internal aperture.

LensFayre (top) like the Dubblefilm (below) has a curved film plane, similar loading and winding but differs in construction - note internal apertures and differences around the frame box.

But more important is what it's made from.

Green Shoot(er)

LensFayre Snap LF-35M with XP2. Carlisle 2021. Click on image to see on Flickr.

This is yet another cheap plastic camera. It will not last I here you say. But this camera is about as environmentally friendly as you can get for a lump of plastic. Now you might say " well having a nice recycled card box with no plastic coating and the compostable plastic alternative hygiene sleeve that camera comes in is all very good. But it is still plastic."

Turns out they thought of that.
So yes it's plastic but this is ABS plastic which is highly recyclable and has better toxic & pollution profile than others. Oh and LensFayre will also happily take your camera when it dies and get it recycled.

Another variant with Box. Promotional image by Lensfayre used with kind permission

And in the month of COP 26 they've gone further than most countries promising to plant a tree for each camera sold and donate some of the profits to reforestation. No Blah Blah Blah here,

This makes it much greener than the rivals and to be frank anything else on the market.

LensFayre Snap LF-35M with Kodak Ultramax 400. Dumfries 2021. Click on Image for Original on Flickr.

In Use

Not much to say here. This is standard modern easy loading with you just needing to pull leader over the toothed wide take up drum and ensure winding on.

Shutter is cocked by the film counter sprocket that sits above the frame box. This obviously prevents double exposure both intentionally and accidentally. LensFayre suggest it's good for subjects at least 1.2m away

To rewind you depress button on base and use standard rewind spool.

To turn on the flash you slide a switch on the front. It benefits from the bigger battery in terms of longevity and seems to charge quicker than rivals. The demo model I had tended to flash on the next shot even if turned off - it's an issue that LensFayre have already identified and should be sorted on the release models. I found if I charged the flash then turned off before taking a flash shot, it would still trigger but ususally wouldn't happen next time out.

I ran 3 rolls through this. It was happy with the two 36 exposure rolls I used unlike some current plastic cameras ( Superheadz wide and slim I'm looking at you !).

LensFayre Snap LF-35M with XP2. Carlisle 2021. Click on image to see on Flickr.

Results

The use of f/8 for it's fixed aperture is interestingly. All the rival cameras have a wider flash aperture of f/8 but tend to use a aperture of f/10-11 without. On paper this gives them a wider Depth of Field (DoF) but at the expense of letting less light in and potentially more diffraction.

But this lens is wider and if the lens focal point is set to around 3.3m then the camera should have acceptable focus from about 1.6m to infinity.

LensFayre Snap LF-35M with some slight expired Fujifilm C200 (Geek Squad). Carlisle Airport. Sept 2021. Click on image for full scale.

And it does the goods from an exposure point of view. With a typical good consumer 400 ISO film like Kodak Ultramax you can usually expect around 2-3 stops of overexposure and 1-2 of under meaning this camera will tolerate well the equivalent of EV100 range of 10-14 which pretty much covers most outdoor daytime shooting in the UK. In brighter climes you might wanna load a 200 or 100 ISO film if you truly can get EV100 15. I loaded the camera with some slightly expired C200 and the weather dipped a bit (typical ) . But it still gave good exposure.

-Lens Performance

That core spec helps this camera turn is a not bad performance for a plastic lens.

Centrally pretty sharp but falls off to the edges. LensFayre Snap LF-35M with XP2. Carlisle 2021. Click on image to see on Flickr.

On paper a 28mm 1:8 lens if focus is set to the hyperfocal distance (just under 3.3 m) will have an acceptable focus field from 1.65m to infinity. Of course that calculation is intended to be used with a bit more fancy lens which doesn't have a curved film plane.

Again there is good detail especially of the Fujifilm film lab but softens to the edges. LensFayre Snap LF-35M with XP2. Carlisle 2021. Click on image to see on Flickr.

That said it does pretty reasonably on the centrally. It really isn't to bad here. Focus remains good enough here to at least 30-50m then softens off a little. For close shooting it's good enough to 1.5-2m but softens beyond that. It's no **VUWS **or Goko UF but this is as good as its rivals.

At longer distances things soften as in the case of the turreted Sheriff's Court Building and other building on the far bank. LensFayre Snap LF-35M with Kodak Ultramax 400. Dumfries 2021. Click on Image for Original on Flickr.

Off centre things are notably softer and get worse the closer to the edge. But it does as well as its rivals. There are also some radial (pincushion) and chromatic distortions which worsen towards the edges. But again about average for the group. These give a that lo-fi look so there's enough to keep your inner Lomographer happy.

-Flash & Viewfinder

Flash is okay for what this is. My gut feeling is this illuminates a bit brighter than some of the rivals and certainly flash images with subject around 2 m came out pretty well.

LensFayre Snap LF-35M with Kodak Ultra Max 400. 2021. Googly eyes before you panic

The Viewfinder gives a much smaller view than the final image. LensFayre suggest about 70% coverage but i think it's less as the image below shows. This isn't untypical and all the cameras in the class have the same issue. I'm guessing they have similar set up but it's that bit more obvious with the wider lens. It is reasonably central

The red represents approximately the viewfinder seen image of the LensFayre Snap LF-35M. Taken on Kodak Ultramax 400. 2021

Cost and the Rivals

LensFayre are launching this at £38 on their site. This is around the middle of the pricing of its rivals. About the same as the Vibe 501F but cheaper than both the Dubblefilm Show and Ilford Sprite 35 II. You can of course buy the Agfaphoto and Kodak M35 & M38 for cheaper. But the latter are ugly and none offer the green credentials and customisation of the LensFayre.

Dubblefilm Show has come to define the class but is more expensive than identical clones like the Agfaphoto and Vibe.

It comes with a standard wrist loop but you'll need your own battery and film just like its rivals.

For those of you moaning this should cost of these things overall just think on this. Thirty years ago Argos would sell you a Goldline Classic camera for £14.99. That has similar specs but was produced by a massive company (Concord Inc) in its thousands. That would equate to ~£34GBP today with no green credentials.

Suddenly doesn't sound quite as expensive

Final Thoughts on the Lensfayre Snap LF-35M

You can probably guess I think this is good for what it is. On one hand it joins an existing class of plastic cameras and brings nothing new to the class optically bar a slightly wider lens. But it holds its ground against its rivals. It also does have big Eco cred advantages over its rivals. That's before we get to customisation and enhanced flash.

LensFayre Snap LF-35M with XP2. Carlisle 2021. Click on image to see on Flickr.

And we need new cameras like this. Yes they're not rivalling the classics of old. This is no Olympus Trip 35 or Contax G. But they do show that making analogue cameras is not dead. Popular photography did not begin with the Leica U or the VP Exakta. It began with the likes of a simple box called the Brownie in 1900. These serve as fun entries into the world of film photography. they bring in new people and they also shout out there is a demand for film cameras.

Will this give rise to a Nikon F7 tomorrow, nope. But it may mean we get a steam building up that will give us newer and better cameras in the years to come.

Alternatives to the Lensfayre Snap LF-35M

Superheadz Wide & Slim a clone of the Vivitar Ultra Wide and Slim

I've mentioned the modern rivals in this post already. For vintage simple use cameras several stand out. The cult classic VUWS and its clones offer one of the smallest 35mm cameras in the world but a weirdly good ultrawide plastic lens but no flash. Likewise the Goko UF is an incredible camera optically despite being a simple use. It's hard to find and is a bit dull to look at. All the lower end and some more prestigious companies made simple use cameras back in the day. The Halina Vision XF is a typical example of the ilk but this blog is littered with them.

If you want new but cost is really an issue. If you can't stretch to the LensFayre or its rivals there is a choice. The reloadable disposable class sits below and basically are very similar except they have that not so user friendly reload mechanism. The best in the class currently is the Lomography Simple use, which is the best in that class all round. The B&W loaded version makes sense as it's much cheaper than the colour film versions, which are only worth if you really want the colour gel flash filters (hint quality street wrappers do the same job). The Harman reloadable has better optics (same as the Dubbblefilm clones) but is woeful to live with.

Other Info

• Lenfayre's Website
• Review on 35mmc

The post The Eco Warrior- The Lensfayre Snap LF-35M Review appeared first on Canny Cameras.

#35mmpointshoot #cameras #pointshoot #2021 #35mm #analogue #camera #film #fixedfocus #flash #lensfayre #lensfayresnaplf35m #lf35m #new #plastic #plasticlens #review #snap

This Film Camera Shoots like a Disposable, but Doesn’t Hurt the Earth

LensFayre, a small online film camera store, has launched what it describes as an entry-level film camera that has all the hallmarks of popular disposable cameras, but is sustainably focused and made of reusable materials.

The new camera is called the Snap LF-35M, and LensFayre's co-owner Alecia Barnes tells PetaPixel that it is an affordable alternative to disposable cameras that is designed with a focus on sustainability.

"The Snap is designed to help make film photography more approachable and less intimidating to the new generation of film photographers, who have little to no experience," the company says. "We have found that the majority of beginners are looking for an affordable and easy-to-use everyday camera that is more sustainable than wasteful single-use cameras."

The camera itself is simple and is designed to mimic the look and feel of disposables that are popular right now because of their affordability and approachable nature, not to mention the vintage "look" that they capture. LensFayre wanted to recreate that in a package that could be reused and customized, and to that effort is releasing the camera with a set of stickers that can be used to make the camera somewhat unique to the user. The camera is launching with a set of ten stickers with 80s and 90s designs, and the company plans to release more sticker collections periodically. Customers can, of course, customize them with whatever they like as well.

The Snap features a 28mm f/8, single-element lens, focus-free operation from 1.2-meters to infinity, a fixed shutter speed of 1/120 of a second, and a classic manual wind and rewind function. It has a built-in flash with a one to three meter range and is powered by a single AA battery.

The result is a camera that makes photos with all the hallmarks of a popular disposable, but without the drawbacks related to waste. Below are a few sample images captured with the camera using a mix of films, from Kodak Ultramax 400 to Portra 400:

While the camera is fully reusable, it is also recyclable should it need to be disposed of. The camera body is ABS plastic (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), which the company says is a thermoplastic that can easily be melted and remolded into a solid again. LensFayre says that this basically means that ABS is an ideal candidate for recycling and is often used for manufacturing common household objects and children's toys. As an added benefit, the company says that ABS is a food-grade plastic with no known toxins.

All of the packaging of the camera is either recyclable or suitable for home composting as well, including the stickers which are made from a durable vinyl-like material that the company says is 100% compostable. LensFayre is also a partner of the Tree Nation reforestation program, a non-profit currently running 100 reforestation and conservation projects around the world. LensFayre will plant one tree for each Snap camera it manufactures and will donate a portion of each sale to wars supporting reforestation efforts.

The Snap LF-35M is available for about $50 and ships with a wrist strap and two custom stickers. Orders will begin shipping on November 17.

#equipment #news #disposable #disposablecamera #environmentallyfriendly #film #filmcamera #fixedfocus #fixedlens #lensfayre #reusable #reusablecamera #sustainable

Poundland Digitals – 1- Fujifilm DX-10

I've looked at picking up film cameras for peanuts before on this site. I thought I could see what I could get for a pound or less in digital cameras. The DX-10 is a 1999 early consumer model came through the door for just 99p before postage. But is this camera that once cost £250 worth a look ?

Digital at Fujifilm

Fujifilm have been a major player in the development of digital cameras since the beginning. They demonstrated their first video still camera in 1985 but would be pipped by Canon to launch first.

But more important was the 1988 Fujix DS-1P. The first true digital camera publicly shown to the world. It never launched commercially but the 1989 Fujix DS-X according to Fujifilm was. (There is some debate about this).

Fujix DS-1P. Image created by Camera-wiki Flickr account from the original image produced in december 1888 popular Photography issue and is treated as fair use (click image for more details. Image shown is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 2.0 Generic License.

A decade later when the DX-10 arrives. By then Fujifilm was one of the 4 leading digital manufacturers by sales. Alongside Canon, Nikon and Olympus, they collectively made up 60% of the sales in 2000.

Fujifilm DX-10

The DX-10 was the last DX camera. It was also known as the CLIP-IT80 in Japan. Confusingly DX models along side other cameras were sold under the CLIP It labels in Japan.

The camera likely evolved into the MX-1200/Finepix 1200 which seems only differs with an updated 1.3 Mega Pixel (MP) sensor. Both that and the DX-10 aimed for entry level consumer. The Launch price of the DX-10 was $299USD although street price was nearer $260-270. It sold for around £250GBP here in Blighty according to the review in Steve's Zone.

That's not an uncommon price for a pre 2000 basic digital. The list price equates to just under $470USD today which will buy a DSLR with lens kit and still get some change. But this was a different era.

Flash shot on DX-10 in lower light. The camera and flash work well together within their limits Dumfries 2021.

Design

The DX-10 is actually fairly streamlined but big compared to a basic digital today. It's more like the size of a cheap 35mm film camera. It looks pleasing enough. All the functioning bits are lopsided presumably to make way for the 4 AA batteries (it's very happy using rechargeables). It's a plastic body with a two tone effect and seems to have been available in 2 styles at least.

Rear view of DX-10

On camera-wiki there is a version that is almost a complete reverse with black /silver to my silver black model. there is no lens cap or cover. The lens is protected by a glass panel. On the rear you have a command dial, jog button and LCD. that's alongside the on/off switch

Under the hood of the DX-10

Pretty basic by today's standards and not exactly high end by 1999 standards. there is a 0.8 MP 1/3″ CCD sensor. This gives 4:3 images 1,024 x768 pixels (aka XGA). That's matched to a 5.5mm 1:4 Fujinon fixed focus lens. That's equivalent to a 40mm on a 35mm camera.

The camera offers the tosh of digital zoom which you're best to ignore (just crop the shot later).

Lens & Viewfinder complex on DX-10

The focal range is from 0.7m to infinity in normal mode but a small switch on the side allows a macro mode of 10cm.

Surprisingly this features a 64 zone TTL metering system (pay attention high end Canon G1). Kinda makes up for the focus I suppose. On paper this is much better than many digitals made even a 3-4 years later. The manual lists shutter speed from 1/4 to 1/5000 sec and ISO fixed to be equivalent to 150ISO. Aperture appears to be either f/4 or f/8. In use I go down to 1/3 sec. There is no image stabilisation as you'd expect. The camera does warn of shake and has a self timer mode and tripod mount.

In good light this can do okay images. DX-10, Dumfries 2021. Note barrel distortion on posts.

Storage

So the good news is this has removable media and that media was designed for cameras. Sadly it's Smart media and a a word of warning you will gamble more on getting a card that works than buying the camera.

Smart media arrives in 1995. The crapness of the format probably gets best illustrated by the fact its 'lofty' ambitions were to replace the floppy disk. In the mid 90's it looked attractive. Most of the alternatives were frankly crap with the exception of compact flash.

Micro SD (SDHC), SD (SDHC), Smart Media & Compact flash

Smart Media is a ludicrously thin format even today but not that small in other dimensions. Weirdly it is actually bigger than Compact flash when laid out . It achieves this by having just a single NAND flash chip and no built in controller. It achieved quite a success initially and by 2001 wikipedia indicate it cornered half the market. But it would rapidly die off.

What killed it was the design limitations. The single chip design meant a limit to maximal capacity. No Card bigger than 128MB was ever release which was fine for our DX-10 in 1999 but within a few years GB storage capacities were typical. Worse still is the format has no inbuilt wear levelling which means the cards burn out much quicker than rivals. Worse still is the fact it is possible to corrupt these card making them unusable even with a format. Fujifilm and Olympus switch to xD cards which allowed for bigger capacity but guess what - no wear levelling.

Funnily they died out too.

Most of the Caul (weir) is okay but the lens softens off for foreground and background objects. Background shows limits of dynamic range too. DX-10, Dumfries 2021

Flash, LCD & Viewfinder

Built in flash offers a range from 0.7-3m at f/4. There is no way of connecting an external unit. It's default mode is auto but usig the men system you can switch to red-eye reduction, forced on and forced off

LCD on the DX-10 in standard mode. Bit washed out with age

The rear 1.8″ LCD panel offers 70K pixels (that's less than 320×240). It is typical of the era and mines is looking a little washed out. It struggled in bright light but actually was more useable than some later cameras. In those circumstances the simple viewfinder is of help. It suffers from Parallax error so the camera actually recommends just using the LCD in macro shooting.

Command dial

Command dial of the DX-10

The big chunky command dial is the way you access every mode even it's direct print mode. For shooting you actually just have 3 modes. normal, timer & manual. Manual is basically like normal but you can adjust WB , EV, flash EV, slow sync and set for continuous shooting (9 shots in 2 seconds).

The other modes allow you to set up the camera (including toggling the flash from auto to on, off & red eye), Other setting include playback and direct printing but also weirdly dedicated file delete and protect options.

Irritatingly most camera settings need to be set in Setup. It is worth flipping quality to fine from the default normal as it has a massive impact on the levels of compression

There is no video mode. Not surprising but I always view that as the killer app for digital cameras moving forward.

You can get away with web images with this camera but not much else. DX-10, Dumfries 2021

Linkage

Although USB had arrived in 1996, this camera linked to a PC via the RS-232 Serial cable. The PC I type on lacks that port and the cable was missing. So I can't tell you if the camera works on a modern PC & O/S like windows 10. I was able to use a the 2003 Olympus Camedia C-120 which connects via USB as a card reader. You can also buy USB Smart media card readers for a few quid but be aware many modern readers don't have a slot for it.

Side of DX-10. The Macro toggle switch is at the top and ports for TV connection RS-232 cable and a optional DC power supply

There was also a single RCA cable for playback on a TV. Again mines was missing so can't test that. There was an optional DC PSU.

DX-10 in Use

Although it's unloaded weight is just 200gms things gear up with 4 batteries in. It is surprisingly heavy loaded out but still wieldable 1 handed. The on switch is surprisingly stiff but that might be an age thing. Very slow boot and then it charges the flash before you can use in low light. By default it shoots with the screen off and that takes several seconds to come up making it on average 10-15 seconds to go from on to ready in indoor situations. The lag turning on the screen is glacial and in fact the shutter button lag is less noticeable because of it. Lag is under a second with screen on for shot.

There is no dedicated flash button so to control the flash you need to head to setup and circle between the flash options.

Unless the LCD is in use you don't get a review image in it. the camera has the usual bleeps to let you know you've recorded a shot.

Best results are with objects ~2-5m and in good even light. DX-10 2021

Results

I wasn't expecting much from this but it did better than I suspected. But given my expectations were pretty low don't get to excited.

Metering

The metering is okay in good light. But I'd twigged there might be some issues as it seems to be the same or similar to the metering on the 2003 FinePix S3000 bridge camera I tested a few months back. Both struggled a bit on overcast days making for dramatic skies but underexposed foregrounds. The same happened with brighter skys and lower lit foregrounds. This isn't helped as the dynamic range of the sensor is only marginally better than non-existent.

Exposure was generally good in good light this shot. But tended to under expose on duller days. DX-10 Dumfries 2021

With more uniform lighting or using flash things are better and it copes generally well. Flash broadly works well within it's limitations. And the camera does give you Flash EV compensation. That's not something you'll find on Today's budget numbers.

Night shooting with the DX-10 ain't a great idea . This was the only 'useable' shot I managed out of about a dozen I took. You'll need to tripod mount the camera or prop it on a wall as I did here using the self timer mode. Interesting the shutter speed was listed as 1/3 sec slower than the manual suggests. Dumfries 2021.

Forget night shooting. You can get by but it's a push with the ISO locked at 150ISO and maximal exposure of f/4 @ 1/4. To achieve that you'll need to tripod mount or brace the camera as there is no image stabilisation.

Optics

Optically this no classic fixed focus lens. It fustrates me a bit as Olympus put brilliant optic on their PEN EE half frame cameras back in the 60's but yet we have an all singing and dancing digital from a big Japanese make 4 decades later which is wobbly to say the least. Fuji aren't alone for basic cameras but they were looking for nearly 300 dollars for this.

The foreground building is okay but the lens gets softer further back and worse to the edges making the building in the rear look a little bit French impressionist. DX-10, Dumfries 2021

In fairness the DX-10 isn't much worse optically compared to the 2003 Olympus Camedia C-120.

The Lens is tad soft and this worse the more you move away from the 1-5m sweet spot and from the centre of the image. It's better than a disposable and cheap 35mm cameras. There is some barrel radial distortion but it isn't that noticeable. Macro mode can be sharp but you've got to be en pointe with this. There is a little fringing evident but this isn't as noticeable as the processing artefacts.

This is a macro shot taken on DX-10 of my PC screen. There is a little fringing but not bad. But you do need to pretty en pointe

Processing

That gets more complex by the camera's notable over sharpening and compression artefacts. This creates a dilemma today do you live with that to improve image or do you go with softer shots which you can try and sort in post. But given the 0.8MP and lack of RAW - it probably is easier to leave turned on. The camera's sharpness setting are accessed in setting mode.

Shot taken on soft (ie. little) sharpness on DX-10. 2021

Move to normal sharpness. The softness is reduced with the price of more artefacts but a happy balance. DX-10, 2021

Now on Hard Sharpness. Processing artefacts much more evident. No Gain so avoid. Dx-10, 2021

As mentioned earlier buy the biggest smart media card you can find and stick the camera to fine on the quality mode. Normal saves you space but the compression really impacts on the shots.

Not bad for colour balance. Typical muted natural Fujifilm tones. DX-10 2021

Colour balance is pretty good. This camera has the typical muted, natural palette you get from Fujifilm film and digitals. It broadly did well but like many cameras of it's age struggled a bit on AWB with modern LCD bulbs giving a yellow/orange cast.

The shots are okay for web work and small prints though. My new but cheap HD webcam takes stills of similar quality but with more distortion.

Image taken on DX-10, 2021

Image taken on a EtyouMe HD webcam camera 2021. More distorted but

Price now to then ratio

So the DX-10 in the UK cost around £250GBP new meaning I paid about 0.4% today. The camera was supplied with a not very whooping 2MB smart media card which to be frank you'll need to replace to use (mines was missing) as it can hold about 7 photos. A second hand 64MB card will set you back 8-12 times the cost of this camera and runs the risk of becoming toast pretty quickly.

Final thoughts on the DX-10

The DX-10 is best seen as an example of the evolution of consumer digital photography rather than a practical shooter. Early Prosumer cameras like the 2000 Canon Powershot G1 can kinda still cut it today. But this at best compares to a modern cheap webcam.

It is a thing of it's time and perhaps tellingly was deemed by Image Resource as _" an ideal first camera" _. Entry level cameras would be hugely better within years and selling for half it's cost. My Olympus Camedia C-120 is a much better deal despite having a equally not great fixed focus lens. It is faster in use and has less sensor issues and can be plugged into amodern PC saving you a bob or to on quirky card readers.

And this explains why digital sales wouldn't really pick up until then. September 1999 Popular Photography carried an ad from B&H. The DX-10 was being sold for $269.95USD with a free Smart media to floppy adaptor. The same ad shows you could have bought a lot more film camera for your money. In fact you could buy either an olympus mju-II (stylus Epic) plus a Yashica T4 super plus or lens kit Canon EOS Rebel G (500N). And still have money for film.

And I suspect you'd be doing well to pick a T4 and mju II for $269 today.

As to the DX-10 ?
Unless you have a hankering for historical mediocrity hold onto your quid.

Other information

in addition to the items linked in the post DigitalKamera Museum and camera-wiki both have pages on this.

The post Poundland Digitals - 1- Fujifilm DX-10 appeared first on Canny Cameras.

#cameras #digital #08mp #1990s #camera #dx10 #fixedfocus #fujifilm #fujifilmdx10 #review

EZ Rider ? – The Harman EZ35 Review

Those plucky folk at Harman Technologies (the folk behind Ilford and Kentmere films) are back again with yet another cheap camera. But the EZ35 is not just yet another near clone film company simple camera. It has a winder and other features. It perhaps gives us some encouragement that things are actually quite rosy in the the analogue camera world. But is it good as a shooter as well ?

Harman EZ35 with Ilford HP5. Dumfries 2021

To say I was Lukewarm about Harman’s last offering is an understatement.

It’s not that the Harman Reloadable was optically that awful.
It has clinically the best optics in reloadable disposable camera class. Shame they just made an awful loading/winding mechanism to go with it. Granted that class is not easy to live with from a loading point. But the camera inspired butt clenching terror ever time I wound on - let alone the horror of rewinding the beast

The EZ35 in comparison is a joy to load and its motor drive works well if you upgrade the packaged battery.

Suitable for Blue Meanies too. The packaging is all recyclable card even if the camera isn't.

Hang on why isn’t this the Ilford EZ35

Good question.

In 2004 Ilford was in a spot of trouble as digital eroded into the analogue market. A management buyout in 2005 led to Harman Technology which looked after the traditional analogue stock like film, developers and photo sensitive paper. But the Swiss based inkjet paper division was sold to another company.

Dumfries 2021. Harman EZ35 with Kodak Ultramax 400. Click on image for original full sized

Whilst that company (Ilford Imaging Europe GmbH) and Harman share the Ilford name on historical products, it's clear they Swiss hold the name for new cameras.

Hence all the Harman Technology cameras cameras are either branded Harman or have no branding inthe case of the pinhole range. Meanwhile the Swiss folk announced the Ilford Sprite 35-II late last year.

Harman EZ35 with Ilford HP5. Dumfries 2021. Click on Image for full size

So yet another Film Company makes camera ?

Ilford/Harman never really stopped making them.

In the last 2 years it's been vogue for film companies to sell their own brand. We've seen the Dubblefilm Show , Agfaphoto Analogue Photo Camera , Kodak M35 , Yashica MF-1 amongst others. Interestingly they all seem identical bar subtle styling differences. Even the New Ilford Sprite 35-II seems another clone.

But the original Ilford company sold cameras like Kodak did. Even when the rise of digital happened they along with Kodak and Fujifilm continued making disposable cameras. Harman started making its own cameras long before it became trendy for film companies to do so with their pinhole cameras

So is this just another Fixed focus promo number ?

Yes and no.

Harman EZ35

So on level you get a typical 31mm fixed focus camera with a f/11 aperture and a fixed ~1/100 shutter speed. The film plane is curved - common in cheap cameras to improve focus. Married to manual flash and no light meter or low light circuit - not far of the spec of those above

Harman EZ35 with kodak Ultramax 400. Dumfries 2021. Click on Image for Original full sized

But what sets out the EZ35 from its Rivals ?

4 notable additions here.
Firstly a simple lens cover switch double as a flash toggle switch and a shutter lock. This is actually a notable step up and the only other cameras offering a built in lens cover at the moment are the Lomography's LC-A series.

It also has a Red Eye reduction feature in the form of a bright LED bulb. Never convinced by these but again it's nice to see. Likewise it also has a a small window on the rear (aka DX window) to let you see what film is loaded.

Rear of Harman EZ35

But the biggie is this is motorised a feature no other new film camera on sale offers today. It weirdly takes over that title from the legend that is the Nikon F6.

Oh and you get a wrist strap, roll of HP5 and a battery. The film is great but as we'll see the AA isn't. It all comes in ECO packaging and with a green wrist strap.

Close shot from 1-1.5m. Harman EZ35 on Kodak Ultramax 400. Click on image for full original

Looks Pretty Plastic must be the same ?

Yes there is a Lotta plastic in two tone green and black. The camera hails from China like the Dubblefilm clones. And core spec resembles the other film company cameras.

But it doesn't have the shared design features they have. It is actually slightly smaller and its lens sits to right of centre whereas the other cameras sit to the left (including the Harman Reloadable).

(L) to (R) Dubblefilm Show, Agfaphoto Analogue Phoro Camera, Kodak M35 and Our EZ35. The first 3 only differ cosmetically. The Harman is different stuff.

More obvious on the rear. All have same door, thumbwheel and thumb depression bar the EZ35

The design is very similar to the later Barclaycard Prom camera which lacked a motor drive. The small ridge to stop you from sliding your finger over the flash the circular area around lens and the red eye LED are all very similar. As is the 3 way lens cover switch.

My gut feeling is this is an off the shelf design but I haven't found the OEM yet.

Later Barclaycard Promo Camera - on some levels so similar to The EZ35, just lacks the winder.

How does it handle then ?

The back of the box is actually the quick start manual

It's easy to load - insert film, pull leader over take up drum. I'd go to the other side and try to snag it over one of the take up dimples- the folk at Harman told me that some folks can miss load by not doing that but I had no issues

The viewfinder is no frills and only covers about 40% of the actual frame.

The red lines roughly show the area seen through the viewfinder from this shot. Ilford HP5

At least it's central horizontally.

The camera is easy to hold and shoot. Keeping the shutter depressed after a shot stops the motordrive. This allows you to be stealth in street photography but is shared with many a vintage camera.

The wider is not the quietest. The given AA battery doesn't do this camera justice and I found the motor drive slowing incredibly after about 24 shots, leading to me to have to press several times to get the drive to wind on enough to cock the shutter.

1 AA battery powers this. Just use branded and not what's supplied.

A slightly used Duracell worked much better with issues on my second roll but was starting to struggle by the end of a third roll. This eats batteries for breakfast but at least with no CPU you cans swap out a dying battery. The camera doesn't auto rewind at the end - a switch on the base need to be pushed. It leaves the leader out if that's important.

The bridge centrally looks fine here but move off and things degrade rapidly. the left banking is very blurry. Harman EZ35 with HP5. 2021. Click on image for original.

Results

For a plastic lens the camera is quite sharp centrally but it falls off quickly to the edges. It manages to give reasonable although soft focus central to quite long distances but the fall off increases. It does it best work (centrally at least) from 1-10m. There is some pincushion distortion evident and fringing is noticeable but not awful for the class. Flaring is evident and not in a good way so best avoid shooting into the sun. It isn't particularly distinctive in its images - You'd struggle to telll if they were taken on this or many other plastic lensed numbers,

this shot probably illustrates all that is good and bad here. Central it isn't bad with the distant bridge just a little soft but come out a little to the back of the chairs in Foreground and it degrades. The Pincushion distortion is also obvious. EZ35 with Kodak Ultramax 400 2021. Click on image for bigger version.

Look this is about average for a plastic fixed focus camera and places it ahead of many reloadable disposable. The Dubblefilm class models are optically are a little better and add a more distinctive feel but this isn't far behind.

Cost

Harman are selling this currently for £47.99. This place sit on a par cost wise with the Dubblefilm show which granted you get a designer but naff bag and a fantastic lanyard but no film and manual advance. It costs twice the price of the Kodak M35 although that again comes with no film. It is likely to drop a bit in cost as did the Harman Reloadable (now sounding a bargain at a penny shy of 28 quid with 2 rolls of film - shame about the shi*ty winder)

EZ35 with Kodak Ultramax 400. Dumfries 2021. Click on image for larger Original.

Final Thoughts

Bravo Harman.

This is actually useable camera and unique in being motor driven. the later is a mixed bag. For the future of film photography this is a big deal. This is the first film camera in many years to have a motordrive built in. But it sits in a class where most of won't mind using a thumb advance

Optically this lags just behind the Dubblefilm Show and the clones. That's worth noting as camera like the Kodak M35 can be picked up for half the price. But this come with film and the camera is more advanced with the winder, red-eye and lens cover. Of course you can get a vintage number but this is important for another reason.

And it is important for the future. It does mean you can buy a camera in 2021 with a built in auto wind. Doesn't sound much but it does mean the ability to make more advanced cameras exists in 2021 and that's a good thing. In the last few years we've seen a growth of film cameras. the bulk have been basic but a few like this Tashica… (opps I mean) Yashica MF-2 and Lomography's in roads into Instax are important. None of these are spectacular but show we can still build more advanced cameras.

And That's a good thing even if the EZ35 isn't for you.

EZ35 with HP5. Dumfries 2021. Click on image for full size

" vintage" Alternatives ?

I use vintage with a small v here for a reason. Ever since George Eastman gave use the Brownie, there's been a market for cheap basic cameras. Kodak's move to the instamatic 126 cartridge helped to drive the fixed everything plastic cam market.

Whilst some folk get misty eyed about instamatics or 110, for me the heyday is the 80's until the early years of this century with the near disposable cameras. Popular as exactly that - cameras you could take to the beach and took useable but still better than Grandpa's Box camera shots. Ironically that's where the new market is going back to at the moment

This however means there are tons of options. A good place to start is looking at anything made by Halina, Vivitar, Concord and Hanimex. Some I've reviewed are the Halina Vision XF, Le Clic C170 (no flash but the 470 is the same with flash), Vivitar T201Lx/kodak KV250 and of course the legendary VUWS and its clones (if you can live without flash)

They all lack winders - I mean you can understand why bother. But some basic models with winders. These almost always offer some exposure control. Of those 2 stand out.

Firstly the Goko UF2. By exposure control, you adjust the aperture to match film speed. nothing else -there is no auto exposure or varible shutter here. It has a glass lens but it does achieve that 'I can't believe it's not focusable' UF look. This model and the UF lens would be the basis of a host of bigger name basic cameras. Including I suspect some of the following. It perhaps is too clinically good however.

My other is the plastic fixed focus Olympus Trip. The glass lensed models are better and the Olympus Trip 505 stands out as a camera which is flawed but in a good way (aka the Olympus Lomo) .

Olympus Trip 505 - The Olympus Lomo ?

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#35mmpointshoot #cameras #2021 #35mm #analogue #camera #ez35 #fixedfocus #flash #harman #motorwind #new #review

Elemental Decision- Kodak M35 Review

I'm Sorry I goofed about this one. The M35 launched in a variety of funky colours in 2019. A simple single element plastic camera I kinda missed it at the time. I assumed it was just another version of the Harman reloadable my least favourite reusable disposable. Turns out I was wrong. This and it's twin the M38 are a cut above the reloadables and may now be the best value model in it's class.

Kodak M35 with Ilford XP2 Super. October 2020.As scanned when processed by AG Photolab. Click on Image for fuller image on Flickr.

Sorry Sino Promise in the words of someone else- I made the wrong decision and I apologise for that. This is not a clone of the Harman nor is it a reloadable disposable. It is yet another reasonable simple fixed everything plastic camera almost identical in performance to the Dubblefilm Show. And is probably made in the same factory.

At this point you may be wondering why I'm not saying sorry to Kodak. Trust me I do enough of that every day by wasting their film on crap shots. But actually this isn't a real Kodak camera. Although Kodak in the last 40 years have had others make cameras for them, this isn't even that. Sino just licence the name.

Kodak are clearly happy with this as the camera is on their website alongside the M38 which just seems to be a two tone variant with an upgraded flash.

Dumfries, Oct 2020. Kodak M35 and kodak UltraMax 400. As Processed and scanned AG Photolab. Click on image for full size on Flickr.

Overview - Build

The M35 & M38 both are plastic bodied simple use cameras. Lets be honest, the design is not what dragged you here. They are identical Harman Reusable barr colour and not having the naff sticker. At least the day-glo colours have a bold impact.

The M35 comes in at least 6 colours with white logos. You can choose between red, yellow, green (light), purple (more pinky - closest colour is Pantone Viola), sky blue & candy pink . The camera I got came just in a blister pack with strap and instructions.

Kodak M38. looks the same bar the white ring. Kodak M38 promotional image from Sino Promise's website

The M38 looks near identical except there is a usually white ring around the lens. It's available in black, blue, Flame Scarlet (red), Yellow and white (ring is yellow and logos are black). As we'll see it differs slightly in spec.

Kodak M35 promotional image from Sino Promise's site. Note the Red and light blue versions are not pictured

Shiny Plastic but solid enough for the price. There's a small decorative grip for your right hand but if you use you run the risk of fingers appearing in frame and trust me that happens .

Kodak M35 and kodak Tri-X 400TX. As Processed and scanned AG Photolab. Click on image for full size on Flickr. Dumfries 2021

Specification

They have the same core spec with a a 1 element plastic 31mm 1:10 lens matched to a fixed shutter of 1/120. the film plane is curved to improve focus. The instructions suggest an 1m (3ft) to infinity focal range.

A single AAA battery powers the flash. I was struggling to understand why the M38 weights more (116.5gms v 100gms of the M35) but the flash appears upgraded with the capacitor rating rising from 70 micro-Farads (uF) to 120uF. Flash for the M35 is rated for use 1-3m.

Kodak M38 promotional spec image from Sino Promise's website. The M35 only differs in weight and flash capcity.

Turning the flash on also moves the Waterstone stop aperture out of the way putting the camera to the widest aperture f/10. I'm guessing the narrower aperture is somewhere between f/11 & 16. You can exploit this with or without flash (just drop the battery out) to give you little bit more exposure as light drops but at the expense of sharpness.

It has standard loading with access via a catch on the side. There's an easy load uptake spool - simple hook the second sprocket hole on your leader over one of the small hooks and wind on. The film plane is curved. It has a thumbwheel advance and the shutter is cocked by winding on. the winder doesn't cock per se but there a sprocket above the film plane that is turned to do so.

Rewinding is by standard rewind spool following depressing button on the base. There is no tripod point, cable point or lens covering.

Kodak M35 with Ilford XP2 Super. October 2020.As scanned when processed by AG Photolab. Click on Image for fuller image on Flickr

Why the confusion with the Harman

The Harman appears made in the same factory with same body shape design, 30mm 1:10 lens but it isn't. The Harman has reloadable disposable drum system to load which is just awful.

Harman Reusable Camera

What's the thing with the Dubblefilm Show Then ?

Well - I'm gonna say it. these are the same or nearly the same camera.

Take a look at these shots of the M35 alongside the Dubblefilm and the newer Agfaphoto Analogue Camera which appears to be another clone. The new Ilford Sprite-II also looks similar and mirrors the Agfaphoto spec but i haven't been able to source.

Kodak M35, Dubblefilm Show & Agfaphoto Analogue (L-R)

Okay these are quite stylistically different but look at the lens, viewfinder, flash and flash switch position.

Top View of the Kodak M35, Dubblefilm Show & Agfaphoto Analogue (L-R)

But when you look elsewhere it becomes quite apparent these are at least closely related if not the same bar styling. The top plate only differs slight with the Dubblefilm having a different sized button and the cameras differing subtly in the moulding. But everything sits in place. The rear and base gets much more obvious

Rear of the Kodak M35, Dubblefilm Show & Agfaphoto Analogue (L-R). Yup they're the same.

Base of the Kodak M35, Dubblefilm Show & Agfaphoto Analogue (L-R). The Dubblefilm is hard to see but identical bar the strap loop point

Inside all is the same too.

Interiors of the Kodak M35, Dubblefilm Show & Agfaphoto Analogue (L-R).

The sides differs but only due to styling and wrist loop position. Worth noting the M35 and Agfaphoto share the same wrist loop.

The two ends of the Kodak M35, Dubblefilm Show & Agfaphoto Analogue ((bottom-top)

Interesting the 1 sheet instructions with the Kodak and Agfaphoto use the same icons. The Dubblefilm used Jose Roda to design theirs so obviously doesn't match.

Similar Illustrations with the Kodak M35 (l) and the Agfaphoto Analogue (r) instructions

Looking at the 4 cameras you'd be forgiven for thinking they have the same lens and aperture set up. Objectively they look the same but they all have slightly different specs. they all open up wide in flash mode

• Kodak M35 31mm 1:10 1 1/120 smaller aperture not declared
• Dubblefilm Show 32mm 1:8 1/125 smaller aperture f/11
• Agfaphoto 31mm 1:9 1/120 smaller aperture not declared
• Ilford Sprite 35-II 31mm 1:9 1/120 smaller aperture not declared

I'm actually wondering if this is down to averaging ? Could the wide be somewhere just over f/9 and is the lens actually between 31 and 32mm ? Dubblefilm maybe rounded to nearest full stops (f/8 1/125) ? And is Kodak, Agfaphoto & Ilford rounding in a slightly different directions ?

Dumfries, Oct 2020. Kodak M35 and kodak UltraMax 400. As Processed and scanned AG Photolab.

Results

It's hard to see much difference in daylight over the Dubblefilm show's image quality. The image is better than a disposable and centrally not too bad for a fixed focus single element. Although it softens on the long shots not too badly. It softens rapidly to edges.

Centrally pretty sharp for 1 element lens but falls off even by the Pedestrian. Kodak M35 with Ilford XP2 Super. October 2020.As scanned when processed by AG Photolab. Click on Image for fuller image on Flickr

Both cameras have some chromatic aberrations which are more noticeable in colour shots but again better you might expect. It has obvious pincushion but again no worse than other cameras in this class.

But there are times of sheer brilliance where you doubt you'd been shooting a single element plastic lens .

Dumfries, December 2020. Kodak M35 Rollei Retro 400S. Processed and scanned AG Photolab. Click on image for fuller photo on Flickr.

On the downside, It flares in bright light. In direct bright conditions that's not in a good way but with thin cloud or it can be fine.

Dumfries, Early 2021. Kodak M35 with kodak 400TX. Processed and as scanned scanned by AG Photolab. Click on image to open bigger version on Flickr

Also as light drops so do these cameras quality. You'll get good results in bright condition s with 100-400 ISO film but even 400 ISO struggles when things cloud over too much. turning on the flash helps not so much with fill in but opening up the aperture. But you loose image sharpness.

Ilford Sprite 35-II table. From Ilford promotional image on their site and various retailer

Oddly it's only Ilford that have given a sensible exposure chart for these cameras. And I'd agree with it here.

So the Knob about 80-100cm is well enough exposed just about half a metre later

The reason the fill in doesn't help is the flash is from the school of chocolate fireplaces. It is possibly the weediest flash I've use. You need to be no more than about a metre and a half away for to be useful. No wonder the M38 packs almost twice the punch by capacitor size.

Cost & Alternatives

In 2020 I paid just under £22 before P&P. You can now source these on the 'bay for under £20. At the time of typing a pink one could be had for less than £12 with free P&P.

This places it as one of the cheapest new cameras you can buy and if you can live with pink even cheaper than some single use cameras.

Class rival

It's construction rival look better. Costings Vary. But the cheapest of the Dubblefilm like cameras is the Agfaphoto which I sourced for £22 plus delivery from Kaleidoscope an off-shot of the UK Catalogue clothing company Grattan PLC. It's available in 3 versions with only differing with the faux leathette in red, brown and black. It comes with a nice velour pouch. The Ilford Sprite 35-II seem based on this stylistically coming in all black or silver/Black styling but costs almost twice as much (£39.95GBP +P&P).

Dubblefilm Show

The Dubblefilm is more expensive still at £50 or more. Cheapest UK stockists I could find were analogue wonderland. You do get the designer instructions and erm.. case but personally I'd save a few quid and track down the generic Vibe 501F which is basically the same stylistically but for half the price.

Reloadables

Lomography Simple Use

Lomography's simple use cameras deserve a mention here. If you can live with loading mechanism this is the best in it's class made today. The Harman reloadable has a same lens and looks (bar naff sticker) as yhe M35 making it the best reloadable optically. But is let down by the awful (even by reloadable standards) loading mechanism.

More Vintage options

From the mid 70's on cameras of this ilk were produced long before a digital sensor was a thing. The list is legion of cameras that had a similar or marginally better spec. Notable killer cams include the VUWS and it's clones and the Hanimex 35HS.

Superheadz Wide & Slim a current clone of the Vivitar Ultra Wide and Slim

Final Thoughts

Again I need to apologise. I was wrong to write it off as a clone of the Harman Reloadable. It shares the same lens and looks but in day-glo colours. But in fact is a class up and out with the shell the same as pretty much every recently released by film producers cameras.

But this is as good as any in the current crop of lo-fi plastic cameras made by or bearing the names of film manufacturers. That's because it is mechanically and optically the same. They can be startlingly good in bright light with 200-400 ISO. They struggles as light fails though you can drop the aperture a bit by using the flash mode.

Dumfries, 2020 October. Kodak M35 with Ilford XP2. C-41 processed and scanned by AG Photolab. Click on image for original full sized on Flickr

The M35 does worse here than my Dubbblefilm due only to the flash. It is telling the M38 almost doubles the capacitor power.

But beyond that there is nothing to separate this class of camera (well they're basically the same). if money is tight the M35 or better still the M38 might make sense. But let's be honest beyond the funky won 't lose that in a car park colours they aren't exactly pretty. So fair enough you can buy 2 M35 and some cheap film for the cost of the Ilford & Dubblefilm, they look better. And with the Agfaphoto camera being almost as pretty but just a few quid more than the M35, it's down to personal taste.

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Pandemic Shooting – The Corona 35r Review

Possibly but accidentally the worse camera to wield at the moment landed in lap a few months ago. When the Corona 35r was launched, the term Coronavirus wasn't even know even in the more benign common cold virus form. But is the 35r to be sniffed at or wrapped in a hankie and binned ?

Corona 35r with Rollei RPX100. Dumfries 2021.. Processed and as scanned by AG Photolabs. Click on image for full size.

In 1965 Tyrrell and Bynoe first identified one of common cold viruses, which they labelled B814. It would be a few years later B814 and other viruses picked up the Coronavirus tag due to them having crown like surface projections. And if I wrote this post in 2019, I'd be calling this the common cold camera. But in 2021 it doesn't feel fair to use humour.

The Japanese maker of the 35r would have had no concept of the fear the word Corona could instil in 2020 and beyond. To them Corona was name that had a royal or solar connections. Much in the same way Grupo Modelo thought Corona was the best name for their Pilsner beer back in 1925.

Top of 35r. You can just see dial for adjusting film counter above the R(rewind) button. Note it isn't cable threaded.

But who actually made it ?

Little exists online about this camera. Peggy Marsh's excellent review of it on camera go camera a few weeks ago is perhaps now the most thorough source available.

Amongst her limited sources for references is the UK museum Science Group collection where this camera is in the collection. The Museum group like most others describe it as made in 1955 by KSK in Japan.

Trouble is I think that's wrong.

Corona 35r with Lomo 100CN . Processed and as scanned by AG Photolab. Dumfries 2021. Click on image for full sized image

KSK and Corona - sounds good but no

It's a plausible story. KSK is not really a company but a frequently used branding on a range of cheap cameras made in the post war decades in Japan by a few different manufacturers.

And indeed 3 cameras bearing the KSK logo and the name Corona. These were 3 subminature Hit Camera models made by at least 2 makes in the 1940's and 50's.

Typical Hit subminature camera. This image isn't of a Corona branded one. Image "Kathy…" taken by Peter Clark (see his Flickr stream here). This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 2.0 Generic License.

But the Corona 35r does not carry any KSK mark. In fact mines came with most of the original carton which indicates it was made by the Japina Corporation Ltd, Japan. This is a company not my knowledge associated with using the KSK name. In fact I struggled to find anything on this company. The only reference to a Japina Corporation Ltd was a Hong Kong base company launched in 1964 and folded in 1968.

Japina are not associated with KSK to my knowledge but little exists on the company today.

Now that is tantalising as this camera is not actually marked made in Japan. The only mention of Japan is on the lens bezel. Hmm Japan lens on a Bezel often means a Chinese or HK made camera.

But That's a conjecture as we'll see below it is similar to a more famous Japanese made toy camera.

The Styling doesn't fit 1955

The styling is more like a late 50's early 60's German viewfinder like my Kodak Retinette 1A. In fact the 35r has a more advanced winder than the much more advanced kodak.

West German made Kodak Retinette 1A (type 042 model 1961-63)

Although it cosmetically differs, the 35r shares may features with the Meikai EL series cameras which were launched in 1963 by Togodo including the faux selenium meter. The Meikai feels a little more upmarket and modern which makes me think the 35r hails from maybe a few years before.

Meikai SL. A later model in the Meikai EL series. Very similar to the Corona 35r but with more modern styling and a longer lens.

So what is the Corona 35r ?

What we have a basic 35mm viewfinder with fixed focus. Its C-Master 45mm 1:8 lens looks simple and uncoated. You have 2 slider on the barrel. One adjusts aperture between f/8 and f/22. Yu have a choice of Bulb (B) or instantaneous (I or aka normal to you and I ). The I setting is unknown but my guess is that this is between 1/25-1/50.

Corona 35r note sliders on lens for aperture and shutter speed

The film plane is curved - a typical solution to improve focus on cheap cameras. It has quite endearing embossed metal lens cap

Cap du jour.

There is no filter thread but push on filters may be possible. You do get a off centre tripod point but no cable point or timer. Advance is by a reasonable winder and the camera has a PC sync socket and cold shoe for flash. The sync speed is not known and I didn't test with a flash unit to see if X-sync.

Corona 35r & RPX100, processed & as scanned by AG Photolab. Note vignetting with Narrower apertures. Click on image for fuller version . Dumfries 2021

Build

It's nicely looking combo of metal and plastic. It may be cheap but but it looks the part. The winder doesn't cock the per se. But rotating the sprocket above the film mask does. However this can get iffy unlike some cameras.

Broadly it seems durable enough but my film counter dial didn't work and I noted that Peggy Marsh had similar issues in her review

Corona 35r & RPX100, processed & as scanned by AG Photolab.. Click on image for fuller version . Dumfries 2021

The Corona 35r in Use

Loading is easy enough. There's a pull up lever on the side which lets you access the film compartment There is a slot on the take up drum. You need manual set the shutter count dial buy a small wheel on the rear of the top plate. it counts up. My dial didn't lock so easily was nudged, making it useless,

Corona 35r & RPX100, processed & as scanned by AG Photolab.. Click on image for fuller version . Dumfries 2021

Rewind is by depressing a small button marked R on rear and lifing slightly the rewind knob. There is no lever off the knob so it can take some time but works well enough.

The viewfinder is simple but over magnifies and is also off centre

The approximate viewfinder area has been marked in Red. Taken on Corona 35r with Lomography 100CN. Original image processed and scanned by AG Photolab

Corona 35r Results

Let's be frank not great. I'm pretty certain it has a slow shutter speed as it was prone to shake.

Vignetting is notable on narrow apertures. Fringing is evident.

Closer things are better. Corona 35r with Lomo 100CN. Processed and as scanned by AG Photolabs. Click on image for full sized. Dumfries 2021.

On the non shaky shots this pretty soft stuff. The lens is maybe most optimal at around 3-5 m centrally but even then it's soft and it falls off either side . Move from the centre and it degrades and softens more. It is way to soft when shot wide but slight improves as you shoot with a narrower aperture

You do get a bit of pincushion radial distortion but at least not awfully so for this sort of camera.

Corona 35r + Lomo 100CN. Dumfries 2021. Processed and as scanned by AG Photolab. Click on image for Bigger copy. As you can see softens on longer shots.

Really this is one of the worst optical quality non plastic lensed analogue cameras I've used. It's about as good as a run of the mill disposable, not a good one nor the Dubblefilm clones you can buy. I suppose there might be some lo-fi appeal to some with the vignette and soft images but I'll pass.

Corona 35r + Kodak 100TMax. Dumfries 2021. Note scratches on this film (failed to shut door properly so suspect as well as flashing several frames got some contaminates in. Processed and as scanned by AG Photolab. Click on image for full size.

It doesn't flare well either

Final Thoughts on the Corona 35r

On a plus point bar the lens this is actually well enough made for a cheap camera with the exception of the lens which isn't great and a slow shutter speed. If you want a quirky alternative to the current crop of camera film maker plastic cameras I guess this is an option but bear in mind the likes of the Dubblefilm will actually take better shots.

The lens is awful and whilst there may be some lomo/toy camera appeal to some. It really didn't float my boat, You can get better from plastic models with more character IMHO.

Alternatives

Roniflex X 3000 one of legion 'Color Optcal Lens ' Scameras

If you are going for the toy/lo-fi aesthetic then the obvious successor to this is one of the legion of the Color Optical Lens cameras that were sold from the the 1970's into the 1990's with a very similar spec and a crap but endearing lens. Better example include the legendary Time and Barclaycard Visa Promo cams. But there's also the scameras like the infamous Mintax, Olympia and Cannon cameras as well as the likes of my Tamashi QP800. I quite enjoyed the latter.

Ansco 35 a Halina 1000 clone. Image by Al Mullen (see photo stream on flickr)

The Halina 1000 and it's variants also have similar spec but produce better images with a plastic lens. As does the VUWS and its clones which offer no controls at all.

Superheadz wide and slim (VUWS clone) with expired BW400CN. On Three Lochs Walk North of Helensburgh 2019.. Click on image for full sized scan.

As I've mentioned any of the numerous current Dubblefilm Show Clones are worth of a look despite also having no controls but a flash.If you can live with 120 fil the Agfa Click series proves a curved focal plane should be no reason for poor image quality.

Agfa Click I with Fomapan 100, Annan 2015. Click on image for full sized scan

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Lo-Fi Goes Fiscal – The Protax Z 855 Review

The Protax Z 855 sounds like a claim form for the HMRC/IRS that you supplement this year's tax return with. But in reality it's one of the weirdest named and designed toy class cameras I've ever used with a fixed focus zoom lens and fisher price digital looks. But just how bad is it? You might be surprised.

You'd also be forgiven for think it's a trn of the century digital with styling. But nope you have a 35mm with a zoom lens but fixed focus

Protax Z 855 and Kodak ColorPlus 200. 2020 Dumfries. Lens wide-note vignetting

Protax ? bet that doesn't do well in an Election year

Hey ! leave the puns to me. I'll have you know there are several Protax cameras out there

So is it some brand I've missed ?

Trust me you've been lucky.

Protax is a name associate with a range of Taiwanese and Chinses made cameras. I'm not sure if they are actually made the same company or just a used name.

The earliest Camera I've seen is the Protax 2000

Protax 2000 Camera. Image copyright of Werner Schnell and used with his kind permission. Click here to see his Flickr Stream

This yet another color optical lens scamera (see my Barclaycard Visa review )

There seem to be a range of simple fixed focus cameras predominately made in Taiwan. I've seen the following

It's the Japan Parts that make the difference

• PC-606 - a simple rebranding of the Premier PC-606 one of the most rebranded very basic cameras I've seen
• 2L3357 - Simple flash camera occasionally mis-described as AF
• DX auto Flash - woo ! DX coding still fixed focus
• QL-835BF - like above but lacking DX. also sold with focus branding.
• 808G - Fixed focus, motor drive, flash & 35mm 1:5.6 lens
• Unnamed Protax - similar styling to the Z 855 but fixed focal length
• QL-605- simple 35mm plastic camera

But it gets more perfidious with digital. There are some early cheesy looking handgrip style cameras that were vogue at turn of the century. But these days Protax is widely used on a range of overpriced digital crap, that trade on being professional SLR. Notably the set of models worryingly sounding…ahem very similar to Nikon models. So we have a D7000, D7100, D7200 and a D7300 as well as an older series that went from D3000 to D3300). They aren't DSLR and have an overinflated interpolated MP rating.

Protax Z 855 + XP2. 2020 Dumfries. Click on image for larger version on Flickr

Blimey, not one to trade my Leica in for then?

Look if you've a Leica M6 with a lens I'll give you this and a £100 no questions asked

But seriously this ain't gonna be for you if you like premium gear. But there may be enough for you lomo kids and lo-fi fans.

Protax Z 855 + Kodak Color Plus 200. Dumfries 2020. Click on image for full version.

Looks like a Kodak Easy Share things ?

Given it's looks I understand why you came to that conclusion. But no this is a simple 35mm camera that weirdly looks like an early digital like one of those Kodak's geared for kids.

All plastic affair with a 2 tone satin silver design. It's a bit creaky but not awful.

No Counter on the top plate

So what's the Spec, then ?

This is lo-fi stuff alright. You have a fixed focus lens with a non adjustable aperture.

But this has a zoom lens.

I always find optical lenses are good for cameras

I use the word zoom in small caps for a reason. With just over a x1.50 zoom the 32-56mm doesn't exactly scream much difference. No spec exists so I'm guessing a shutter around 1/100. I suspect there is a fixed aperture circle which will vary about a half stop depending on the zoom. I'm guessing it sits somewhere around f/8 to f/10 mid-zoom. The film plane is curved

The manually triggered flash is powered by a single AA.

Dumfries, 2020. Protax Z 855 & XP2. Cick on image for fuller version.

Hang sound a bit like the…

Halina Silhouette. Looks good but shoots like a donkey.

Halina Silhouette ?
Blimey you must be a regular. On paper that fixed focus zoom camera should be better with motorised zoom, motordrive, DX coding and just maybe some exposure control. But nope, it's one of the worst cameras I have ever used.

And SPOILER ALERT the Protax beats that bar - although that bar is currently 3ft under in a swamp filled with toxic slime so it isn't hard

How does it Handle ?

Standard loading arrangement for this camera with a thumbwheel advance. the simple viewfinder actually zooms which was surprising. Flash is slow to charge up with a single 1.5V battery.

Tow rewind you need to flick the rewind switch on rear and use the standard rewind crank on base. the rewind crank is actually robust but not great to use as the point you grab is small and doesn't rotate.

Base of the Protax Z 855. Note rewind crank and battery hatch but no tripod point

There is no frame counter. But the lens has zoom length markings on the barrel.

Mines had issues on the first roll. It didn't seem to wind or cock correctly. I'll put that down to lack of use as the next rolls worked fine. However I suspect reliability is not a strong point here.

So show us Your Results

This did better than I actually though it would. But bear in mind that level was absolute cr&p. Still this isn't awful.

Protax Z 855 with XP2. Oct 2020 Dumfries. Click on image for larger version

Its images are little soft and soften towards the edge. It's sharpest between 3-10m. It's about the same though as many a fixed focal length plastic camera.

Vignetting very obvious at wide end. Protax Z 855 + ColorPlus 200. Dumfries , Oct 2020.
Click on image for larger version.

Zoomed in there is less vignetting. Protax Z 855 + ColorPlus 200. Dumfries, 2020.
Click on image for larger version.

It has barrel radial distortions on both focal lengths and some fringing is evident. There is some loose material in my shutter giving a fabric fringe on some shots. The lens vignettes a bit when shot on wide.

It flares awfully in bright light

Whats Good then

On a plus

• Not awful image quality
• has a zoom for a basic camera
• Viewfinder zooms too

And Why Not

• There are better cheap cameras
• Bulky and child like
• Image not that distinctive
• Shutter issue on test model
• It's not awful but not great

Dumfries 2020. Protax Z 855 & ColorPlus 200. Click on image for bigger version

So may be give it a swerve ?

Look this is what it is. It actually is better than I thought it would be and provides image quality in the ball park of the current crop of reloadables and simple plastic cameras. And if plastic cameras are your thang this is worth a sniff

It's pretty unique as a zoom plastic camera. And it is the best fixed focus zoom I've ever used but given the only other I've tried is the Halina Silhouette that's not hard. Mind you you do look like you've a fisher-price digital

Better Plastic Fantastics ?

I'd always mention a VUWS or a clone out of the blocks. One of the smallest 35mm cameras ever made with a surprisingly good vey wide angled plastic lens. If a more retro style but better lo-fi optics is required the Hanimex 35 SE/Halina Flash 350 is very worthy and has a coated glass triplet lens that still adds a distinctiveness. Equally the earlier Halina 1000/Ansco 35 offers a plastic lo-fi experience with a plastic lens that is quirky and wrapped up in a retro plastic body. If you want new one of the cameras typified by the Dubblefilm Show may be worth a look.

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The long Winding Road -Meikai SL Review

In 1963 Togodo launched the first post war Meikai camera. Our subject the Meikai SL was alter revision. Strangely these have acquire a slight cult toy camera status. Not sure why if you ask me.

Meikai SL with Ilford XP2. July 2021. Click on Image for original on Flickr.

You Say Tougodo, I say Togodo

It's not that the company isn't interesting

Three brothers in Law founded Togodo (aka Tougodo) in Tokyo back in 1930.

Admiral Tōgō (aka the Nelson of the East) on Time Magazine, 9th November 1926, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons. He's the guy who inspired/was exploited by Tougodo

The company name in part was cleverly derived from Admiral Tōgō Heihachirō, a hero of the Russo-Japanese War. Clearly Togodo exploited this for marketing. So much so that the Imperial Navy actually asked the company to stop using the name. But bravely Nagatsuka Masanori, one of the founders visited the Admiral and persuaded him to let them use the name.

Togodo was one of the key exponents of the No-Need-darkroom process. This allowed users to develop their negatives on the spot and make contact prints without the need of darkroom gear almost two decades before Land gave us Polaroid film.

Meikai SL lens close up

But the war was to have a massive impact. Camera production ceased as the company switched to making military aircraft parts. Parts of the company moved to 2 new locations with the 3 brother in-laws managing the 2 new and the old factory. Allied bombing destroyed the old factory and the 3 founders decided to dissolve the company in 1945.

Post war Ashes - The two Togodos

But the two brothers in-law whom decamped in the war, wanted to carry on with camera production. They both at points used variants of the Togodu name. One was base in Toyohashi and would go on to make the legendary collectable Hit cameras amongst others.

Meikai SL with ColorPlus 200. Dumfries, June 2021. Click on image for original on Flickr

The other founded by Toyota Yoshio in Yamanashi prefecture. Less well regarded but would proved more resilient making cameras like our Meikai SL into the 1980's.

The Meikai Name

The original pre war company made a few models bearing the Meikai name. These use a 35mm paper back rollfilm and were of an unusual side by side TLR type

Toguodo Meikai side by side TLR. Image copyright of & show with kind permission of John Marriage. From his excellent guide to 35mm TLR history at refracted.net.

These are rarities and sell at serious auction prices (one similar to above sold for 960 euros in 2009)

The name gets reused by Togodo Yamanashi with their Meikai EL series. But as we'll see these are mass produced toy cameras.

Taken on Meikai SL with Ilford XP2. July 2021. Click on Image for original on Flickr.

Later plastic cameras would also bear the name. Although largely made in Taiwan and China, these included various C olor Optical lenstrashcams.

The EL Range

The Meikai EL range is a set of near identical 35mm fixed focus compacts with manually controlled aperture and a single shutter speed. They all seem to have a 50mm fixed focus lens with a choice of of usually 3 aperture setting. Made of metal and stylied to look like early 60's Japanese cameras.

The only differences are styling and flash.

Original Meikai EL. Image by Enrique and the work is shown and licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.0 Generic License. Click on image for orginal on Flickr

The original was Meikai EL pictured above. Our Meikai SL and another the Power Meikai EL are just minor revisions and all feature PC sync & a coldshoe for flash. They also have a a faux selenium cell. Most later models (the ELX, GT and ST) have a hotshoe rather than PC sync flash connector. The original model had a bulb option for shutter speed which is absent at least on the SL.

Later Meikai ELX looks worse but has a standard hotshoe. image by Allen (aka Roadside Pictures). This work is used and licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 2.0 Generic License. Click on image for original or here for Allen's stream

There are 2 models (EL 204 & EL 304) that are similar to the EL but have fitting for flash cubes

The models are minor revision mainly stylistically but notably the ELX which version has a hotshoe as do later derived version from it.

Camera-wiki has a good guide but little clairty when each model was released

• EL - Original model
• Power Meikai EL - minor styling revisions
• EL 204 - EL with flash cube mount
• EL 304 - revised EL 204 looks more like SL. Black only
• SL - Black only with some other revisions
• ELX - Adds Hotshoe
• GX - revised ELX . Ditches Faux selenium cell
• ST - Revised GX

There is also the Meikai 35 that seems very similar and the Meikai HC35 series that lack a lever winder.

The Meikai SL - Build & Layout

Notably a black only revision of the EL. This camera like the EL 304 has a possibly upgraded New Meikai Lens with Optical Glass with UV filter. Whether any of that is accurate or just marketing Flannel is unclear.

Always important to have Optical Glass

It's a stylish looking beast looking like better range and viewfinders. But predominately made of cheap metal with some plastic parts like the faux metering and its cover. We've a fixed focus 50mm lens with an adjustable aperture controlled by chrome effect plastic ring around the lens barrel.

It feels reassuring solid yet flimsy at the same time. The top plate has a typical layout with a shutter button (non threaded). rewind knob, flim counter and a winding lever. There is also shot ready indicator that turns red when the shutter is properly cocked.

Meikai SL top plate. Note the shutter ready window to left of shutter button. Shows in red when shutter is primed.

That's handy as this does wind on well sometime a single wind does it, sometimes it's about 8-10.

There is a crude switch on rear which allows you to rewind the film. This sits below the dial by which you manually zero the film counter.

Taken on Meikai SL with Ilford XP2. July 2021. Click on Image for original on Flickr.

Meikai SL Core Spec

Sadly I can't find a definitive info on line. But there is at least some stabs baout the older SL. Sylvain Halgand estimates the Meikai SL has an aperture range of f/8-16 set up and that makes sense when I view this camera. However Tobias Erikson suggested f/8 to f/22 on his review on 35mmc. The EL like the SL camera just has 3 histograms Sunny (? f/16), cloudy (?f/11) and heavy cloudy/flash bulb (?f/8)

Pretty much the only use control. 4 pictograms match the 3 aperture settings on the Meikai SL

Testing the shutter with Vasil Florin's meter gave a speed around 1/80. Even given my ineptitude and shutter springs aging I'm guessing the speed originally was between 1/60 -1/100.

The camera has a PC sync., geared for a electronic (i.e. X sync). According to Kataan.org original SL manual recommended use the camera's bulb setting when using flashbulbs which have a slower speed. But when using electronic flashes at the normal shutter setting.

The film plane is curved to improve focus. There is no metering here despite what the faux cell would suggest.

Taken on Meikai SL with ColorPlus 200. Dumfries 2021. Click on image for original on Flickr

In use

To load there is a pull leaver on one side which unlocks the film door. It must be moved back up to secure the door once loaded. And inside is a pretty standard loading arrangement assuming you can get the darn thing to wind on

So the camera's winder in theory pulls the film around the take up spool and turns a sprocket above the film box. Again in theory this helps pull the film through, cocks the shutter and moves the film counter. I say in theory as discussed the winding mechanism is junk.

it's pretty straight forward to use. Just set the aperture to match the weather with 100 to 200 ISO film. and shoot. The viewfinder is basic.

Flare is an issue. Taken on Meikai SL with Ilford XP2. July 2021. Click on Image for original on Flickr.

Hey sounds like the….

Corona 35 R ? Yes I wondered that too. Initially I'd dismissed a link to with Togundo cameras. The Corona 35 R is usually described in relation to the makers of the Hit cameras which were made by Togodu Toyohashi. But it may be more likely that the makers of our Meikai EL Togodu Yamanashi made the Corona as well as the camera has a very similar design.

Corona 35 R

Meikai SL Results

Oh dear !
The Corona 35R link is strengthened as they are both are not great. The Meikai SL is better though and apparently has a cult following.

Not sure why.

So where to start. While the aperture set to sunny it provides soft images. So these are mediocre with best focus about 3-5m and softening off beyond. However it is incredibly prone to camera shake. I only got between 30-50% useable images off the rolls I shot on this due to that.

Taken on Meikai SL with Ilford XP2. July 2021. Click on Image for original on Flickr.

How weak the lens is telling. I'd been prepping this whilst shooting a couple of the current plastic cameras in the Dubblefilm Show class. They might be plastic everything but take clinically better shots. It's better than the Corona but not by much.

It at least is better than some cameras across the frame . There is less fall off to the edges than I wold suspect. The image quality suffers when shooting with the lens wide - I guess Togodu assumed you'd only use for flash shots.

What's the radial distortion ? Nope me neither. Meikai SL with Color Plus 200. Dumfries 2020. Click on image for full size on Flickr.

The coating gives a slight cast on colour films. Not unpleasant but not that distinctive. However, it has the weirdest distortion I've seen with a vertical pincushion and a horizontal radial barrel effect. There is fringing and chromatic aberration to keep the most ardent Lomographer happy but the overall image is even by lo-fi standard pretty dull and soft.

The viewfinder site badly off centre vertically and misses the bottom of the frame

The above image with an approximation of the Meikai SL viewfinder shown in red. Extends badly off frame

What they cost

So I paid £9 for mines before P&P. Now that's ball park- the price of these are between £5-10 on a quick glance

Taken on Meikai SL with ColorPlus 200. Dumfries 2021. Click on image for original on Flickr

Final Thoughts on the Meikai SL

Meikai SL

The TL:DR is good looking cheap camera sadly let down (even by crap camera standards) by the optics and a slow shutter. And then there's the awful winder (and trust me I'm not alone).

Look I love a soft retro looking image like the next man but these just lack character and are just unreliable and prone to shake. Yes my plastic fantastics maybe won't last as long but they will at least wind on properly and take better images.

So better than the Corona but really not worth seeking out IMHO. That's a shame as they look quite nice but are let down by their cheap unreliable innards.

More Info

Camera-wiki 's Tougodo page is a good starting point for the history of the company and models.

Meanwhile on Mike Butkus 's site, there's a manual for a Meikai FC, which is closely related. It's from the Meikai HC35 series and the models have a thumbwheel and bigger counter dial but are broadly otherwise the same. I've mentioned other reviews en route but As Minas Câmaras is also worth a look.

Alternatives to the Meikai SL

Even a color optical lens camera can produce as god if not better images with more Lo-fi although fake charm. For a retro looking toy shooter that is actually fun to use the Halina 1000 (aka Ansco 35 plus several other variants) is a better choice. Equally if you are happy with 120 roll film an original Diana clone or the current Diana F+ are worth a look. The modern Dubblefilm Show clones also are a better bet although have fixed exposure.

The post The long Winding Road -Meikai SL Review appeared first on Canny Cameras.

#35mmpointshoot #cameras #1960s #35mm #analogue #camera #film #fixedfocus #japanese #lofi #meikai #meikaisl #review #sl #togodo #tougodo

The long Winding Road -Meikai SL Review

In 1963 Togodo launched the first post war Meikai camera. Our subject the Meikai SL was alter revision. Strangely these have acquire a slight cult toy camera status. Not sure why if you ask me.

Meikai SL with Ilford XP2. July 2021. Click on Image for original on Flickr.

You Say Tougodo, I say Togodo

It's not that the company isn't interesting

Three brothers in Law founded Togodo (aka Tougodo) in Tokyo back in 1930.

Admiral Tōgō (aka the Nelson of the East) on Time Magazine, 9th November 1926, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons. He's the guy who inspired/was exploited by Tougodo

The company name in part was cleverly derived from Admiral Tōgō Heihachirō, a hero of the Russo-Japanese War. Clearly Togodo exploited this for marketing. So much so that the Imperial Navy actually asked the company to stop using the name. But bravely Nagatsuka Masanori, one of the founders visited the Admiral and persuaded him to let them use the name.

Togodo was one of the key exponents of the No-Need-darkroom process. This allowed users to develop their negatives on the spot and make contact prints without the need of darkroom gear almost two decades before Land gave us Polaroid film.

Meikai SL lens close up

But the war was to have a massive impact. Camera production ceased as the company switched to making military aircraft parts. Parts of the company moved to 2 new locations with the 3 brother in-laws managing the 2 new and the old factory. Allied bombing destroyed the old factory and the 3 founders decided to dissolve the company in 1945.

Post war Ashes - The two Togodos

But the two brothers in-law whom decamped in the war, wanted to carry on with camera production. They both at points used variants of the Togodu name. One was base in Toyohashi and would go on to make the legendary collectable Hit cameras amongst others.

Meikai SL with ColorPlus 200. Dumfries, June 2021. Click on image for original on Flickr

The other founded by Toyota Yoshio in Yamanashi prefecture. Less well regarded but would proved more resilient making cameras like our Meikai SL into the 1980's.

The Meikai Name

The original pre war company made a few models bearing the Meikai name. These use a 35mm paper back rollfilm and were of an unusual side by side TLR type

Toguodo Meikai side by side TLR. Image copyright of & show with kind permission of John Marriage. From his excellent guide to 35mm TLR history at refracted.net.

These are rarities and sell at serious auction prices (one similar to above sold for 960 euros in 2009)

The name gets reused by Togodo Yamanashi with their Meikai EL series. But as we'll see these are mass produced toy cameras.

Taken on Meikai SL with Ilford XP2. July 2021. Click on Image for original on Flickr.

Later plastic cameras would also bear the name. Although largely made in Taiwan and China, these included various C olor Optical lenstrashcams.

The EL Range

The Meikai EL range is a set of near identical 35mm fixed focus compacts with manually controlled aperture and a single shutter speed. They all seem to have a 50mm fixed focus lens with a choice of of usually 3 aperture setting. Made of metal and stylied to look like early 60's Japanese cameras.

The only differences are styling and flash.

Original Meikai EL. Image by Enrique and the work is shown and licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.0 Generic License. Click on image for orginal on Flickr

The original was Meikai EL pictured above. Our Meikai SL and another the Power Meikai EL are just minor revisions and all feature PC sync & a coldshoe for flash. They also have a a faux selenium cell. Most later models (the ELX, GT and ST) have a hotshoe rather than PC sync flash connector. The original model had a bulb option for shutter speed which is absent at least on the SL.

Later Meikai ELX looks worse but has a standard hotshoe. image by Allen (aka Roadside Pictures). This work is used and licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 2.0 Generic License. Click on image for original or here for Allen's stream

There are 2 models (EL 204 & EL 304) that are similar to the EL but have fitting for flash cubes

The models are minor revision mainly stylistically but notably the ELX which version has a hotshoe as do later derived version from it.

Camera-wiki has a good guide but little clairty when each model was released

• EL - Original model
• Power Meikai EL - minor styling revisions
• EL 204 - EL with flash cube mount
• EL 304 - revised EL 204 looks more like SL. Black only
• SL - Black only with some other revisions
• ELX - Adds Hotshoe
• GX - revised ELX . Ditches Faux selenium cell
• ST - Revised GX

There is also the Meikai 35 that seems very similar and the Meikai HC35 series that lack a lever winder.

The Meikai SL - Build & Layout

Notably a black only revision of the EL. This camera like the EL 304 has a possibly upgraded New Meikai Lens with Optical Glass with UV filter. Whether any of that is accurate or just marketing Flannel is unclear.

Always important to have Optical Glass

It's a stylish looking beast looking like better range and viewfinders. But predominately made of cheap metal with some plastic parts like the faux metering and its cover. We've a fixed focus 50mm lens with an adjustable aperture controlled by chrome effect plastic ring around the lens barrel.

It feels reassuring solid yet flimsy at the same time. The top plate has a typical layout with a shutter button (non threaded). rewind knob, flim counter and a winding lever. There is also shot ready indicator that turns red when the shutter is properly cocked.

Meikai SL top plate. Note the shutter ready window to left of shutter button. Shows in red when shutter is primed.

That's handy as this does wind on well sometime a single wind does it, sometimes it's about 8-10.

There is a crude switch on rear which allows you to rewind the film. This sits below the dial by which you manually zero the film counter.

Taken on Meikai SL with Ilford XP2. July 2021. Click on Image for original on Flickr.

Meikai SL Core Spec

Sadly I can't find a definitive info on line. But there is at least some stabs baout the older SL. Sylvain Halgand estimates the Meikai SL has an aperture range of f/8-16 set up and that makes sense when I view this camera. However Tobias Erikson suggested f/8 to f/22 on his review on 35mmc. The EL like the SL camera just has 3 histograms Sunny (? f/16), cloudy (?f/11) and heavy cloudy/flash bulb (?f/8)

Pretty much the only use control. 4 pictograms match the 3 aperture settings on the Meikai SL

Testing the shutter with Vasil Florin's meter gave a speed around 1/80. Even given my ineptitude and shutter springs aging I'm guessing the speed originally was between 1/60 -1/100.

The camera has a PC sync., geared for a electronic (i.e. X sync). According to Kataan.org original SL manual recommended use the camera's bulb setting when using flashbulbs which have a slower speed. But when using electronic flashes at the normal shutter setting.

The film plane is curved to improve focus. There is no metering here despite what the faux cell would suggest.

Taken on Meikai SL with ColorPlus 200. Dumfries 2021. Click on image for original on Flickr

In use

To load there is a pull leaver on one side which unlocks the film door. It must be moved back up to secure the door once loaded. And inside is a pretty standard loading arrangement assuming you can get the darn thing to wind on

So the camera's winder in theory pulls the film around the take up spool and turns a sprocket above the film box. Again in theory this helps pull the film through, cocks the shutter and moves the film counter. I say in theory as discussed the winding mechanism is junk.

it's pretty straight forward to use. Just set the aperture to match the weather with 100 to 200 ISO film. and shoot. The viewfinder is basic.

Flare is an issue. Taken on Meikai SL with Ilford XP2. July 2021. Click on Image for original on Flickr.

Hey sounds like the….

Corona 35 R ? Yes I wondered that too. Initially I'd dismissed a link to with Togundo cameras. The Corona 35 R is usually described in relation to the makers of the Hit cameras which were made by Togodu Toyohashi. But it may be more likely that the makers of our Meikai EL Togodu Yamanashi made the Corona as well as the camera has a very similar design.

Corona 35 R

Meikai SL Results

Oh dear !
The Corona 35R link is strengthened as they are both are not great. The Meikai SL is better though and apparently has a cult following.

Not sure why.

So where to start. While the aperture set to sunny it provides soft images. So these are mediocre with best focus about 3-5m and softening off beyond. However it is incredibly prone to camera shake. I only got between 30-50% useable images off the rolls I shot on this due to that.

Taken on Meikai SL with Ilford XP2. July 2021. Click on Image for original on Flickr.

How weak the lens is telling. I'd been prepping this whilst shooting a couple of the current plastic cameras in the Dubblefilm Show class. They might be plastic everything but take clinically better shots. It's better than the Corona but not by much.

It at least is better than some cameras across the frame . There is less fall off to the edges than I wold suspect. The image quality suffers when shooting with the lens wide - I guess Togodu assumed you'd only use for flash shots.

What's the radial distortion ? Nope me neither. Meikai SL with Color Plus 200. Dumfries 2020. Click on image for full size on Flickr.

The coating gives a slight cast on colour films. Not unpleasant but not that distinctive. However, it has the weirdest distortion I've seen with a vertical pincushion and a horizontal radial barrel effect. There is fringing and chromatic aberration to keep the most ardent Lomographer happy but the overall image is even by lo-fi standard pretty dull and soft.

The viewfinder site badly off centre vertically and misses the bottom of the frame

The above image with an approximation of the Meikai SL viewfinder shown in red. Extends badly off frame

What they cost

So I paid £9 for mines before P&P. Now that's ball park- the price of these are between £5-10 on a quick glance

Taken on Meikai SL with ColorPlus 200. Dumfries 2021. Click on image for original on Flickr

Final Thoughts on the Meikai SL

Meikai SL

The TL:DR is good looking cheap camera sadly let down (even by crap camera standards) by the optics and a slow shutter. And then there's the awful winder (and trust me I'm not alone).

Look I love a soft retro looking image like the next man but these just lack character and are just unreliable and prone to shake. Yes my plastic fantastics maybe won't last as long but they will at least wind on properly and take better images.

So better than the Corona but really not worth seeking out IMHO. That's a shame as they look quite nice but are let down by their cheap unreliable innards.

More Info

Camera-wiki 's Tougodo page is a good starting point for the history of the company and models.

Meanwhile on Mike Butkus 's site, there's a manual for a Meikai FC, which is closely related. It's from the Meikai HC35 series and the models have a thumbwheel and bigger counter dial but are broadly otherwise the same. I've mentioned other reviews en route but As Minas Câmaras is also worth a look.

Alternatives to the Meikai SL

Even a color optical lens camera can produce as god if not better images with more Lo-fi although fake charm. For a retro looking toy shooter that is actually fun to use the Halina 1000 (aka Ansco 35 plus several other variants) is a better choice. Equally if you are happy with 120 roll film an original Diana clone or the current Diana F+ are worth a look. The modern Dubblefilm Show clones also are a better bet although have fixed exposure.

The post The long Winding Road -Meikai SL Review appeared first on Canny Cameras.

#otherstuff #1960s #35mm #analogue #camera #film #fixedfocus #japanese #lofi #meikai #review #sl #togodo #tougodo

Lo-Fi Goes Fiscal – The Protax Z 855 Review

The Protax Z 855 sounds like a claim form for the HMRC/IRS that you supplement this year's tax return with. But in reality it's one of the weirdest named and designed toy class cameras I've ever used with a fixed focus zoom lens and fisher price digital looks. But just how bad is it? You might be surprised.

You'd also be forgiven for think it's a trn of the century digital with styling. But nope you have a 35mm with a zoom lens but fixed focus

Protax Z 855 and Kodak ColorPlus 200. 2020 Dumfries. Lens wide-note vignetting

Protax ? bet that doesn't do well in an Election year

Hey ! leave the puns to me. I'll have you know there are several Protax cameras out there

So is it some brand I've missed ?

Trust me you've been lucky.

Protax is a name associate with a range of Taiwanese and Chinses made cameras. I'm not sure if they are actually made the same company or just a used name.

The earliest Camera I've seen is the Protax 2000

Protax 2000 Camera. Image copyright of Werner Schnell and used with his kind permission. Click here to see his Flickr Stream

This yet another color optical lens scamera (see my Barclaycard Visa review )

There seem to be a range of simple fixed focus cameras predominately made in Taiwan. I've seen the following

It's the Japan Parts that make the difference

• PC-606 - a simple rebranding of the Premier PC-606 one of the most rebranded very basic cameras I've seen
• 2L3357 - Simple flash camera occasionally mis-described as AF
• DX auto Flash - woo ! DX coding still fixed focus
• QL-835BF - like above but lacking DX. also sold with focus branding.
• 808G - Fixed focus, motor drive, flash & 35mm 1:5.6 lens
• Unnamed Protax - similar styling to the Z 855 but fixed focal length
• QL-605- simple 35mm plastic camera

But it gets more perfidious with digital. There are some early cheesy looking handgrip style cameras that were vogue at turn of the century. But these days Protax is widely used on a range of overpriced digital crap, that trade on being professional SLR. Notably the set of models worryingly sounding…ahem very similar to Nikon models. So we have a D7000, D7100, D7200 and a D7300 as well as an older series that went from D3000 to D3300). They aren't DSLR and have an overinflated interpolated MP rating.

Protax Z 855 + XP2. 2020 Dumfries. Click on image for larger version on Flickr

Blimey, not one to trade my Leica in for then?

Look if you've a Leica M6 with a lens I'll give you this and a £100 no questions asked

But seriously this ain't gonna be for you if you like premium gear. But there may be enough for you lomo kids and lo-fi fans.

Protax Z 855 + Kodak Color Plus 200. Dumfries 2020. Click on image for full version.

Looks like a Kodak Easy Share things ?

Given it's looks I understand why you came to that conclusion. But no this is a simple 35mm camera that weirdly looks like an early digital like one of those Kodak's geared for kids.

All plastic affair with a 2 tone satin silver design. It's a bit creaky but not awful.

No Counter on the top plate

So what's the Spec, then ?

This is lo-fi stuff alright. You have a fixed focus lens with a non adjustable aperture.

But this has a zoom lens.

I always find optical lenses are good for cameras

I use the word zoom in small caps for a reason. With just over a x1.50 zoom the 32-56mm doesn't exactly scream much difference. No spec exists so I'm guessing a shutter around 1/100. I suspect there is a fixed aperture circle which will vary about a half stop depending on the zoom. I'm guessing it sits somewhere around f/8 to f/10 mid-zoom. The film plane is curved

The manually triggered flash is powered by a single AA.

Dumfries, 2020. Protax Z 855 & XP2. Cick on image for fuller version.

Hang sound a bit like the…

Halina Silhouette. Looks good but shoots like a donkey.

Halina Silhouette ?
Blimey you must be a regular. On paper that fixed focus zoom camera should be better with motorised zoom, motordrive, DX coding and just maybe some exposure control. But nope, it's one of the worst cameras I have ever used.

And SPOILER ALERT the Protax beats that bar - although that bar is currently 3ft under in a swamp filled with toxic slime so it isn't hard

How does it Handle ?

Standard loading arrangement for this camera with a thumbwheel advance. the simple viewfinder actually zooms which was surprising. Flash is slow to charge up with a single 1.5V battery.

Tow rewind you need to flick the rewind switch on rear and use the standard rewind crank on base. the rewind crank is actually robust but not great to use as the point you grab is small and doesn't rotate.

Base of the Protax Z 855. Note rewind crank and battery hatch but no tripod point

There is no frame counter. But the lens has zoom length markings on the barrel.

Mines had issues on the first roll. It didn't seem to wind or cock correctly. I'll put that down to lack of use as the next rolls worked fine. However I suspect reliability is not a strong point here.

So show us Your Results

This did better than I actually though it would. But bear in mind that level was absolute cr&p. Still this isn't awful.

Protax Z 855 with XP2. Oct 2020 Dumfries. Click on image for larger version

Its images are little soft and soften towards the edge. It's sharpest between 3-10m. It's about the same though as many a fixed focal length plastic camera.

Vignetting very obvious at wide end. Protax Z 855 + ColorPlus 200. Dumfries , Oct 2020.
Click on image for larger version.

Zoomed in there is less vignetting. Protax Z 855 + ColorPlus 200. Dumfries, 2020.
Click on image for larger version.

It has barrel radial distortions on both focal lengths and some fringing is evident. There is some loose material in my shutter giving a fabric fringe on some shots. The lens vignettes a bit when shot on wide.

It flares awfully in bright light

Whats Good then

On a plus

• Not awful image quality
• has a zoom for a basic camera
• Viewfinder zooms too

And Why Not

• There are better cheap cameras
• Bulky and child like
• Image not that distinctive
• Shutter issue on test model
• It's not awful but not great

Dumfries 2020. Protax Z 855 & ColorPlus 200. Click on image for bigger version

So may be give it a swerve ?

Look this is what it is. It actually is better than I thought it would be and provides image quality in the ball park of the current crop of reloadables and simple plastic cameras. And if plastic cameras are your thang this is worth a sniff

It's pretty unique as a zoom plastic camera. And it is the best fixed focus zoom I've ever used but given the only other I've tried is the Halina Silhouette that's not hard. Mind you you do look like you've a fisher-price digital

Better Plastic Fantastics ?

I'd always mention a VUWS or a clone out of the blocks. One of the smallest 35mm cameras ever made with a surprisingly good vey wide angled plastic lens. If a more retro style but better lo-fi optics is required the Hanimex 35 SE/Halina Flash 350 is very worthy and has a coated glass triplet lens that still adds a distinctiveness. Equally the earlier Halina 1000/Ansco 35 offers a plastic lo-fi experience with a plastic lens that is quirky and wrapped up in a retro plastic body. If you want new one of the cameras typified by the Dubblefilm Show may be worth a look.

The post Lo-Fi Goes Fiscal - The Protax Z 855 Review appeared first on Canny Cameras.

#35mmpointshoot #cameras #pointshoot #35mm #camera #chinese #film #fixedfocus #flash #lofi #plastic #plasticlens #protax #protaxz855 #zoom

Pandemic Shooting – The Corona 35r Review

Possibly but accidentally the worse camera to wield at the moment landed in lap a few months ago. When the Corona 35r was launched, the term Coronavirus wasn't even know even in the more benign common cold virus form. But is the 35r to be sniffed at or wrapped in a hankie and binned ?

Corona 35r with Rollei RPX100. Dumfries 2021.. Processed and as scanned by AG Photolabs. Click on image for full size.

In 1965 Tyrrell and Bynoe first identified one of common cold viruses, which they labelled B814. It would be a few years later B814 and other viruses picked up the Coronavirus tag due to them having crown like surface projections. And if I wrote this post in 2019, I'd be calling this the common cold camera. But in 2021 it doesn't feel fair to use humour.

The Japanese maker of the 35r would have had no concept of the fear the word Corona could instil in 2020 and beyond. To them Corona was name that had a royal or solar connections. Much in the same way Grupo Modelo thought Corona was the best name for their Pilsner beer back in 1925.

Top of 35r. You can just see dial for adjusting film counter above the R(rewind) button. Note it isn't cable threaded.

But who actually made it ?

Little exists online about this camera. Peggy Marsh's excellent review of it on gocamerago a few weeks ago is perhaps now the most thorough source available.

Amongst her limited sources for references is the UK museum Science Group collection where this camera is in the collection. The Museum group like most others describe it as made in 1955 by KSK in Japan.

Trouble is I think that's wrong.

Corona 35r with Lomo 100CN . Processed and as scanned by AG Photolab. Dumfries 2021. Click on image for full sized image

KSK and Corona - sounds good but no

It's a plausible story. KSK is not really a company but a frequently used branding on a range of cheap cameras made in the post war decades in Japan by a few different manufacturers.

And indeed 3 cameras bearing the KSK logo and the name Corona. These were 3 subminature Hit Camera models made by at least 2 makes in the 1940's and 50's.

Typical Hit subminature camera. This image isn't of a Corona branded one. Image "Kathy…" taken by Peter Clark (see his Flickr stream here). This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 2.0 Generic License.

But the Corona 35r does not carry any KSK mark. In fact mines came with most of the original carton which indicates it was made by the Japina Corporation Ltd, Japan. This is a company not my knowledge associated with using the KSK name. In fact I struggled to find anything on this company. The only reference to a Japina Corporation Ltd was a Hong Kong base company launched in 1964 and folded in 1968.

Japina are not associated with KSK to my knowledge but little exists on the company today.

Now that is tantalising as this camera is not actually marked made in Japan. The only mention of Japan is on the lens bezel. Hmm Japan lens on a Bezel often means a Chinese or HK made camera.

But That's a conjecture as we'll see below it is similar to a more famous Japanese made toy camera.

The Styling doesn't fit 1955

The styling is more like a late 50's early 60's German viewfinder like my Kodak Retinette 1A. In fact the 35r has a more advanced winder than the much more advanced kodak.

West German made Kodak Retinette 1A (type 042 model 1961-63)

Although it cosmetically differs, the 35r shares may features with the Meikai EL series cameras which were launched in 1963 by Togodo including the faux selenium meter. The Meikai feels a little more upmarket and modern which makes me think the 35r hails from maybe a few years before.

Meikai SL. A later model in the Meikai EL series. Very similar to the Corona 35r but with more modern styling and a longer lens.

So what is the Corona 35r ?

What we have a basic 35mm viewfinder with fixed focus. Its C-Master 45mm 1:8 lens looks simple and uncoated. You have 2 slider on the barrel. One adjusts aperture between f/8 and f/22. Yu have a choice of Bulb (B) or instantaneous (I or aka normal to you and I ). The I setting is unknown but my guess is that this is between 1/25-1/50.

Corona 35r note sliders on lens for aperture and shutter speed

The film plane is curved - a typical solution to improve focus on cheap cameras. It has quite endearing embossed metal lens cap

Cap du jour.

There is no filter thread but push on filters may be possible. You do get a off centre tripod point but no cable point or timer. Advance is by a reasonable winder and the camera has a PC sync socket and cold shoe for flash. The sync speed is not known and I didn't test with a flash unit to see if X-sync.

Corona 35r & RPX100, processed & as scanned by AG Photolab. Note vignetting with Narrower apertures. Click on image for fuller version . Dumfries 2021

Build

It's nicely looking combo of metal and plastic. It may be cheap but but it looks the part. The winder doesn't cock the per se. But rotating the sprocket above the film mask does. However this can get iffy unlike some cameras.

Broadly it seems durable enough but my film counter dial didn't work and I noted that Peggy Marsh had similar issues in her review

Corona 35r & RPX100, processed & as scanned by AG Photolab.. Click on image for fuller version . Dumfries 2021

The Corona 35r in Use

Loading is easy enough. There's a pull up lever on the side which lets you access the film compartment There is a slot on the take up drum. You need manual set the shutter count dial buy a small wheel on the rear of the top plate. it counts up. My dial didn't lock so easily was nudged, making it useless,

Corona 35r & RPX100, processed & as scanned by AG Photolab.. Click on image for fuller version . Dumfries 2021

Rewind is by depressing a small button marked R on rear and lifing slightly the rewind knob. There is no lever off the knob so it can take some time but works well enough.

The viewfinder is simple but over magnifies and is also off centre

The approximate viewfinder area has been marked in Red. Taken on Corona 35r with Lomography 100CN. Original image processed and scanned by AG Photolab

Corona 35r Results

Let's be frank not great. I'm pretty certain it has a slow shutter speed as it was prone to shake.

Vignetting is notable on narrow apertures. Fringing is evident.

Closer things are better. Corona 35r with Lomo 100CN. Processed and as scanned by AG Photolabs. Click on image for full sized. Dumfries 2021.

On the non shaky shots this pretty soft stuff. The lens is maybe most optimal at around 3-5 m centrally but even then it's soft and it falls off either side . Move from the centre and it degrades and softens more. It is way to soft when shot wide but slight improves as you shoot with a narrower aperture

You do get a bit of pincushion radial distortion but at least not awfully so for this sort of camera.

Corona 35r + Lomo 100CN. Dumfries 2021. Processed and as scanned by AG Photolab. Click on image for Bigger copy. As you can see softens on longer shots.

Really this is one of the worst optical quality non plastic lensed analogue cameras I've used. It's about as good as a run of the mill disposable, not a good one nor the Dubblefilm clones you can buy. I suppose there might be some lo-fi appeal to some with the vignette and soft images but I'll pass.

Corona 35r + Kodak 100TMax. Dumfries 2021. Note scratches on this film (failed to shut door properly so suspect as well as flashing several frames got some contaminates in. Processed and as scanned by AG Photolab. Click on image for full size.

It doesn't flare well either

Final Thoughts on the Corona 35r

On a plus point bar the lens this is actually well enough made for a cheap camera with the exception of the lens which isn't great and a slow shutter speed. If you want a quirky alternative to the current crop of camera film maker plastic cameras I guess this is an option but bear in mind the likes of the Dubblefilm will actually take better shots.

The lens is awful and whilst there may be some lomo/toy camera appeal to some. It really didn't float my boat, You can get better from plastic models with more character IMHO.

Alternatives

Roniflex X 3000 one of legion 'Color Optcal Lens ' Scameras

If you are going for the toy/lo-fi aesthetic then the obvious successor to this is one of the legion of the Color Optical Lens cameras that were sold from the the 1970's into the 1990's with a very similar spec and a crap but endearing lens. Better example include the legendary Time and Barclaycard Visa Promo cams. But there's also the scameras like the infamous Mintax, Olympia and Cannon cameras as well as the likes of my Tamashi QP800. I quite enjoyed the latter.

Ansco 35 a Halina 1000 clone. Image by Al Mullen (see photo stream on flickr)

The Halina 1000 and it's variants also have similar spec but produce better images with a plastic lens. As does the VUWS and its clones which offer no controls at all.

Superheadz wide and slim (VUWS clone) with expired BW400CN. On Three Lochs Walk North of Helensburgh 2019.. Click on image for full sized scan.

As I've mentioned any of the numerous current Dubblefilm Show Clones are worth of a look despite also having no controls but a flash.If you can live with 120 fil the Agfa Click series proves a curved focal plane should be no reason for poor image quality.

Agfa Click I with Fomapan 100, Annan 2015. Click on image for full sized scan

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Elemental Decision- Kodak M35 Review

I'm Sorry I goofed about this one. The M35 launched in a variety of funky colours in 2019. A simple single element plastic camera I kinda missed it at the time. I assumed it was just another version of the Harman reloadable my least favourite reusable disposable. Turns out I was wrong. This and it's twin the M38 are a cut above the reloadables and may now be the best value model in it's class. Decision

Kodak M35 with Ilford XP2 Super. October 2020.As scanned when processed by AG Photolab. Click on Image for fuller image on Flickr.

Sorry Sino Promise in the words of someone else- I made the wrong decision and I apologise for that. This is not a clone of the Harman nor is it a reloadable disposable. It is yet another reasonable simple fixed everything plastic camera almost identical in performance to the Dubblefilm Show. And is probably made in the same factory.

At this point you may be wondering why I'm not saying sorry to Kodak. Trust me I do enough of that every day by wasting their film on crap shots. But actually this isn't a real Kodak camera. Although Kodak in the last 40 years have had others make cameras for them, this isn't even that. Sino just licence the name.

Kodak are clearly happy with this as the camera is on their website alongside the M38 which just seems to be a two tone variant with an upgraded flash.

Dumfries, Oct 2020. Kodak M35 and kodak UltraMax 400. As Processed and scanned AG Photolab. Click on image for full size on Flickr.

Overview - Build

The M35 & M38 both are plastic bodied simple use cameras. Lets be honest, the design is not what dragged you here. They are identical Harman Reusable barr colour and not having the naff sticker. At least the day-glo colours have a bold impact.

The M35 comes in at least 6 colours with white logos. You can choose between red, yellow, green (light), purple (more pinky - closest colour is Pantone Viola), sky blue & candy pink . The camera I got came just in a blister pack with strap and instructions.

Kodak M38. looks the same bar the white ring. Kodak M38 promotional image from Sino Promise's website

The M38 looks near identical except there is a usually white ring around the lens. It's available in black, blue, Flame Scarlet (red), Yellow and white (ring is yellow and logos are black). As we'll see it differs slightly in spec.

Kodak M35 promotional image from Sino Promise's site. Note the Red and light blue versions are not pictured

Shiny Plastic but solid enough for the price. There's a small decorative grip for your right hand but if you use you run the risk of fingers appearing in frame and trust me that happens .

Kodak M35 and kodak Tri-X 400TX. As Processed and scanned AG Photolab. Click on image for full size on Flickr. Dumfries 2021

Specification

They have the same core spec with a a 1 element plastic 31mm 1:10 lens matched to a fixed shutter of 1/120. the film plane is curved to improve focus. The instructions suggest an 1m (3ft) to infinity focal range.

A single AAA battery powers the flash. I was struggling to understand why the M38 weights more (116.5gms v 100gms of the M35) but the flash appears upgraded with the capacitor rating rising from 70 micro-Farads (uF) to 120uF. Flash for the M35 is rated for use 1-3m.

Kodak M38 promotional spec image from Sino Promise's website. The M35 only differs in weight and flash capcity.

Turning the flash on also moves the Waterstone stop aperture out of the way putting the camera to the widest aperture f/10. I'm guessing the narrower aperture is somewhere between f/11 & 16. You can exploit this with or without flash (just drop the battery out) to give you little bit more exposure as light drops but at the expense of sharpness.

It has standard loading with access via a catch on the side. There's an easy load uptake spool - simple hook the second sprocket hole on your leader over one of the small hooks and wind on. The film plane is curved. It has a thumbwheel advance and the shutter is cocked by winding on. the winder doesn't cock per se but there a sprocket above the film plane that is turned to do so.

Rewinding is by standard rewind spool following depressing button on the base. There is no tripod point, cable point or lens covering.

Kodak M35 with Ilford XP2 Super. October 2020.As scanned when processed by AG Photolab. Click on Image for fuller image on Flickr

Why the confusion with the Harman

The Harman appears made in the same factory with same body shape design, 30mm 1:10 lens but it isn't. The Harman has reloadable disposable drum system to load which is just awful.

Harman Reusable Camera

What's the thing with the Dubblefilm Show Then ?

Well - I'm gonna say it. these are the same or nearly the same camera.

Take a look at these shots of the M35 alongside the Dubblefilm and the newer Agfaphoto Analogue Camera which appears to be another clone. The new Ilford Sprite-II also looks similar and mirrors the Agfaphoto spec but i haven't been able to source.

Kodak M35, Dubblefilm Show & Agfaphoto Analogue (L-R)

Okay these are quite stylistically different but look at the lens, viewfinder, flash and flash switch position.

Top View of the Kodak M35, Dubblefilm Show & Agfaphoto Analogue (L-R)

But when you look elsewhere it becomes quite apparent these are at least closely related if not the same bar styling. The top plate only differs slight with the Dubblefilm having a different sized button and the cameras differing subtly in the moulding. But everything sits in place. The rear and base gets much more obvious

Rear of the Kodak M35, Dubblefilm Show & Agfaphoto Analogue (L-R). Yup they're the same.

Base of the Kodak M35, Dubblefilm Show & Agfaphoto Analogue (L-R). The Dubblefilm is hard to see but identical bar the strap loop point

Inside all is the same too.

Interiors of the Kodak M35, Dubblefilm Show & Agfaphoto Analogue (L-R).

The sides differs but only due to styling and wrist loop position. Worth noting the M35 and Agfaphoto share the same wrist loop.

The two ends of the Kodak M35, Dubblefilm Show & Agfaphoto Analogue ((bottom-top)

Interesting the 1 sheet instructions with the Kodak and Agfaphoto use the same icons. The Dubblefilm used Jose Roda to design theirs so obviously doesn't match.

Similar Illustrations with the Kodak M35 (l) and the Agfaphoto Analogue (r) instructions

Looking at the 4 cameras you'd be forgiven for thinking they have the same lens and aperture set up. Objectively they look the same but they all have slightly different specs. they all open up wide in flash mode

• Kodak M35 31mm 1:10 1 1/120 smaller aperture not declared
• Dubblefilm Show 32mm 1:8 1/125 smaller aperture f/11
• Agfaphoto 31mm 1:9 1/120 smaller aperture not declared
• Ilford Sprite 35-II 31mm 1:9 1/120 smaller aperture not declared

I'm actually wondering if this is down to averaging ? Could the wide be somewhere just over f/9 and is the lens actually between 31 and 32mm ? Dubblefilm maybe rounded to nearest full stops (f/8 1/125) ? And is Kodak, Agfaphoto & Ilford rounding in a slightly different directions ?

Dumfries, Oct 2020. Kodak M35 and kodak UltraMax 400. As Processed and scanned AG Photolab.

Results

It's hard to see much difference in daylight over the Dubblefilm show's image quality. The image is better than a disposable and centrally not too bad for a fixed focus single element. Although it softens on the long shots not too badly. It softens rapidly to edges.

Centrally pretty sharp for 1 element lens but falls off even by the Pedestrian. Kodak M35 with Ilford XP2 Super. October 2020.As scanned when processed by AG Photolab. Click on Image for fuller image on Flickr

Both cameras have some chromatic aberrations which are more noticeable in colour shots but again better you might expect. It has obvious pincushion but again no worse than other cameras in this class.

But there are times of sheer brilliance where you doubt you'd been shooting a single element plastic lens .

Dumfries, December 2020. Kodak M35 Rollei Retro 400S. Processed and scanned AG Photolab. Click on image for fuller photo on Flickr.

On the downside, It flares in bright light. In direct bright conditions that's not in a good way but with thin cloud or it can be fine.

Dumfries, Early 2021. Kodak M35 with kodak 400TX. Processed and as scanned scanned by AG Photolab. Click on image to open bigger version on Flickr

Also as light drops so do these cameras quality. You'll get good results in bright condition s with 100-400 ISO film but even 400 ISO struggles when things cloud over too much. turning on the flash helps not so much with fill in but opening up the aperture. But you loose image sharpness.

Ilford Sprite 35-II table. From Ilford promotional image on their site and various retailer

Oddly it's only Ilford that have given a sensible exposure chart for these cameras. And I'd agree with it here.

So the Knob about 80-100cm is well enough exposed just about half a metre later

The reason the fill in doesn't help is the flash is from the school of chocolate fireplaces. It is possibly the weediest flash I've use. You need to be no more than about a metre and a half away for to be useful. No wonder the M38 packs almost twice the punch by capacitor size.

Cost & Alternatives

In 2020 I paid just under £22 before P&P. You can now source these on the 'bay for under £20. At the time of typing a pink one could be had for less than £12 with free P&P.

This places it as one of the cheapest new cameras you can buy and if you can live with pink even cheaper than some single use cameras.

Class rival

It's construction rival look better. Costings Vary. But the cheapest of the Dubblefilm like cameras is the Agfaphoto which I sourced for £22 plus delivery from Kaleidoscope an off-shot of the UK Catalogue clothing company Grattan PLC. It's available in 3 versions with only differing with the faux leathette in red, brown and black. It comes with a nice velour pouch. The Ilford Sprite 35-II seem based on this stylistically coming in all black or silver/Black styling but costs almost twice as much (£39.95GBP +P&P).

Dubblefilm Show

The Dubblefilm is more expensive still at £50 or more. Cheapest UK stockists I could find were analogue wonderland. You do get the designer instructions and erm.. case but personally I'd save a few quid and track down the generic Vibe 501F which is basically the same stylistically but for half the price.

Reloadables

Lomography Simple Use

Lomography's simple use cameras deserve a mention here. If you can live with loading mechanism this is the best in it's class made today. The Harman reloadable has a same lens and looks (bar naff sticker) as yhe M35 making it the best reloadable optically. But is let down by the awful (even by reloadable standards) loading mechanism.

More Vintage options

From the mid 70's on cameras of this ilk were produced long before a digital sensor was a thing. The list is legion of cameras that had a similar or marginally better spec. Notable killer cams include the VUWS and it's clones and the Hanimex 35HS.

Superheadz Wide & Slim a current clone of the Vivitar Ultra Wide and Slim

Final Thoughts

Again I need to apologise. I was wrong to write it off as a clone of the Harman Reloadable. It shares the same lens and looks but in day-glo colours. But in fact is a class up and out with the shell the same as pretty much every recently released by film producers cameras.

But this is as good as any in the current crop of lo-fi plastic cameras made by or bearing the names of film manufacturers. That's because it is mechanically and optically the same. They can be startlingly good in bright light with 200-400 ISO. They struggles as light fails though you can drop the aperture a bit by using the flash mode.

Dumfries, 2020 October. Kodak M35 with Ilford XP2. C-41 processed and scanned by AG Photolab. Click on image for original full sized on Flickr

The M35 does worse here than my Dubbblefilm due only to the flash. It is telling the M38 almost doubles the capacitor power.

But beyond that there is nothing to separate this class of camera (well they're basically the same). if money is tight the M35 or better still the M38 might make sense. But let's be honest beyond the funky won 't lose that in a car park colours they aren't exactly pretty. So fair enough you can buy 2 M35 and some cheap film for the cost of the Ilford & Dubblefilm, they look better. And with the Agfaphoto camera being almost as pretty but just a few quid more than the M35, it's down to personal taste.

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So I bought the Cheapest “New” 35mm on eBay – the SnapJack Review

![image](https://austerityphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/IMG_20201001_162243rt.jpg" width=)

With the arrival of the Dubblefilm Show, it got me thinking. What is the cheapest 35mm film camera you can buy on eBay. So you know a few days later that arrived. Trouble is the SnapJack technically isn't new. It is in fact a rebadged Concord 850 Slim Line. But what do you get for your Tenner ?

I've tread this ground before with the cheapest digitals on eBay and wish. These turned out to be the same scamera but in very different clothing. But this actually is what it says it is a proper 35mm camera and makes no inflated claims (kudos to you SnapJack)

SnapJack with Expired kodak BW400CN. 2020

Before you rush in and say but I saw this waterproof camera for less. I made a decision to go with the cheapest UK or EU sourced eBay camera I could get. Yes I could get something from China or Hong Kong for less. But the camera had to be sourced from more than one UK and appear new.

I got the latter wrong but it is available on a few camera sites like filmcamerastore.co.uk or Loaf Cameras. Loaf currently sell it for just a Fiver (postage takes that nearer the tenner mark). Mine came from eBay for around a tenner.

In original packaging. Yup colour balance all over the shop despite my best effort in PS. The little bits in packaging are the remnants of rubber bands.

But this isn't really new. Although the camera packaging suggests it's sold by The Original Union Jack co . It turns out the camera is actually made by Concord Camera Corp and sold by it's UK wing. The game is further given away as whilst no name appears on the English and European languages instructions. On the Japanese & Chinese ones it is the Concord model's name

Concord Camera Corp

Concord is a name familiar with plastic camera aficionados. This US company sold a range of plastic camera sunder the various brands like Le Clic, Argus or Keystone. They also made camera for or licenced the name of bigger brands like Kodak and Polaroid. And in fact this is just a reskinned Concord 850 Slim Line.

Concord 850 Slime line. Image by Alfred Sigaro. This work is used and licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 2.0 Generic License.

Concord began life in 1982. Launched by the enigmatic Jack C. Benun the company aimed to produced cheap but reliable cameras mainly made in China. Aimed for the cheap end competing against the likes of Haking, Hanimex and later vivitar. It would have its ups and downs as this post reveals but by the turn of the century was a major player generating $173.2 million in revenues in 2000. But they have produced some collectable cameras like the Le Clic Le Mini.

Problem is Concord folded in 2009.

SnapJack with Kodak ColorPlus 200. 2020

So our camera is at least 11 years old. This would make some sense as the rubber band around the instructions had dried out and turned into little worm like fragments. I think it is more likely late 90's design. Later Concord cameras were even more compact and more typical like the Polaroid 170BV or the Barclaycard one I tried.

SnapJack Specs

SnapJack or should I say a very British Concord 850 Slim Line

It is very similar to the Le Clic 170 except it has a flash. This time it came with a manual though. So we know it's a fixed focus simple 34mm lens with a fixed f/8.5 aperture and a single 1/100 shutter. The manual gives a focal range of 4ft to infinity.

That's pretty much the same as my guessed spec on the 170. Both this and the 170 have Japan Optics logo which is mean to give the unwary the illusion of quality.

SnapJack with Expired Kodak BW400CN. 2020

The camera will work without batteries but you need 2AA to power the manually triggered flash. The flash has a range of up to 8ft with 100 ISO film. And the manually helpfully suggest if you're mad enough to load this with 1600 ISO you can get a flash range of 25ft. For more realistic speeds add 4ft for each stop over 100 ISO)

As you'd expect the film plane is curved.

There is no tripod or cable points.

Build

This is a plastic Lo-Fi camera. It's a bit creak but I give Concord credit they did an okay job for what it is. The Concord version version came in either satin black or shiny silver. The SnapJack is a bit more colourful with it's Union Jack print.

The top of the SnapJack has some nifty 3D effect printing going on

Let's be straight this was geared at young tourists who'd forgotten a camera in London. It would also have sold well for folk wanting a near disposable to take to Glasto or other festivals. And heck if you're lomographer sat in Brooklyn I get that British cool vibe might appeal.

Flags however are symbols. And this perhaps is viewed differently depending where you are in the world and what community you belong to. Can see it selling well at Ibrox but no so well at Parkhead.

Use

The camera has a conventional easy load system making this a breeze to load. To advance there is the same strange sliding mechanism I found on the Le Clic 170. It is the same mechanism you find on most 110 camera.

They even shoved a Union Jack on the back in case you forgot !!

The simple viewfinder has no frame markings. The Only other control is the flash which is a tad slow IMHO to charge. it has a small green ready LED by switch on rear.

The slider below the lens moves a cover in place and locks the shutter. This is nice to see in such a basic camera.

The camera has no rewind lock. So don't fiddle too such with the rewind knob whilst shooting (I only clocked this later as I like to pre-tense my film with new cameras when winding one to check it's loaded okay.

Viewfinder is basic but okay. It is central but has some vertical parallax issues on closer shots. The Flash takes a wee bit to charge.

Results

There is no exposure control so that bit is down to you deciding what film to load for the weather. I'd recommend a 400 ISO negative film or 200 ISO on really good days because you're relying on the latitude.

So the sign and the life buoy box are sharper peripherally than the background. SnapJack with expired BW400CN. Dumfries 2020.

The simple lens has some pincushion distortion and is pretty soft. The best focus is centrally about 1.5-3. It's okay to around 5m but then falls off rapidly which is nuts for a camera being aimed at tourists. It softens to the corners as well, but ironically remain sharper for close objects than the centre is for for distant. There is fringing evident mainly at the edges.

Long is just woeful. This is the usual Nith shot.

SnapJack with ColorPlus 200. 2020

If you zoom in this just get worse.

Close crop of above shot. Possibly one of the worst crops I've had

Things came out quite vivid in both 200ISO Kodak Colourplus but also quite intense sky with the BW400CN C-41 B&W I used. This makes it of interest to the Lo-Fi crowd but there are belter choices.

The flash is basic but works. It causes an artificial vignette effect (the aperture does not change).

Flash is okay if you stick in range but close up you do get Parallax issues. SnapJack with Kodak ColorPlus 200. 2020

The State of the Union - Conclusions

The SnapJack kinda fails as a tourist camera as it can't shoot long stuff to save a toffee. You'd have been better buying a series of Kodak funsavers. That fact illustrates this isn't an alternative to a single use Camera. For optical quality. Most of the reloadable disposables I've tested over the last years and a half are better. With the Lomography Simple Use being the logical standout. In it's class (I guess the near disposable) cameras old and new outshine it. Take a look at the likes of the [Halina Vision X F](http://Halina Vision XF), or the cult Halina Panorama (with or without flash) or the more recent Dubblefilm Show. And for the same cost as a SnapJack you can pick up the Iconic Konica Pop or the lethally sharp but rare Goko UF.

It's sibling the Le Clic 170 was actually slightly better optically. But there is some charm in styling and the image quality and tone might well appear to some Hipsters whom dig the British thang. It'll also sell well to Rangers fans ; -0

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EZ Rider ? – The Harman EZ35 Review

Those plucky folk at Harman Technologies (the folk behind Ilford and Kentmere films) are back again with yet another cheap camera. But the EZ35 is not just yet another near clone film company simple camera. It has a winder and other features. It perhaps gives us some encouragement that things are actually quite rosy in the the analogue camera world. But is it good as a shooter as well ?

Harman EZ35 with Ilford HP5. Dumfries 2021

To say I was Lukewarm about Harman’s last offering is an understatement.

It’s not that the Harman Reloadable was optically that awful.
It has clinically the best optics in reloadable disposable camera class. Shame they just made an awful loading/winding mechanism to go with it. Granted that class is not easy to live with from a loading point. But the camera inspired butt clenching terror ever time I wound on - let alone the horror of rewinding the beast

The EZ35 in comparison is a joy to load and its motor drive works well if you upgrade the packaged battery.

Suitable for Blue Meanies too. The packaging is all recyclable card even if the camera isn't.

Hang on why isn’t this the Ilford EZ35

Good question.

In 2004 Ilford was in a spot of trouble as digital eroded into the analogue market. A management buyout in 2005 led to Harman Technology which looked after the traditional analogue stock like film, developers and photo sensitive paper. But the Swiss based inkjet paper division was sold to another company.

Dumfries 2021. Harman EZ35 with Kodak Ultramax 400. Click on image for original full sized

Whilst that company (Ilford Imaging Europe GmbH) and Harman share the Ilford name on historical products, it's clear they Swiss hold the name for new cameras.

Hence all the Harman Technology cameras cameras are either branded Harman or have no branding inthe case of the pinhole range. Meanwhile the Swiss folk announced the Ilford Sprite 35-II late last year.

Harman EZ35 with Ilford HP5. Dumfries 2021. Click on Image for full size

So yet another Film Company makes camera ?

Ilford/Harman never really stopped making them.

In the last 2 years it's been vogue for film companies to sell their own brand. We've seen the Dubblefilm Show , Agfaphoto Analogue Photo Camera , Kodak M35 , Yashica MF-1 amongst others. Interestingly they all seem identical bar subtle styling differences. Even the New Ilford Sprite 35-II seems another clone.

But the original Ilford company sold cameras like Kodak did. Even when the rise of digital happened they along with Kodak and Fujifilm continued making disposable cameras. Harman started making its own cameras long before it became trendy for film companies to do so with their pinhole cameras

So is this just another Fixed focus promo number ?

Yes and no.

Harman EZ35

So on level you get a typical 31mm fixed focus camera with a f/11 aperture and a fixed ~1/100 shutter speed. The film plane is curved - common in cheap cameras to improve focus. Married to manual flash and no light meter or low light circuit - not far of the spec of those above

Harman EZ35 with kodak Ultramax 400. Dumfries 2021. Click on Image for Original full sized

But what sets out the EZ35 from its Rivals ?

4 notable additions here.
Firstly a simple lens cover switch double as a flash toggle switch and a shutter lock. This is actually a notable step up and the only other cameras offering a built in lens cover at the moment are the Lomography's LC-A series.

It also has a Red Eye reduction feature in the form of a bright LED bulb. Never convinced by these but again it's nice to see. Likewise it also has a a small window on the rear (aka DX window) to let you see what film is loaded.

Rear of Harman EZ35

But the biggie is this is motorised a feature no other new film camera on sale offers today. It weirdly takes over that title from the legend that is the Nikon F6.

Oh and you get a wrist strap, roll of HP5 and a battery. The film is great but as we'll see the AA isn't. It all comes in ECO packaging and with a green wrist strap.

Close shot from 1-1.5m. Harman EZ35 on Kodak Ultramax 400. Click on image for full original

Looks Pretty Plastic must be the same ?

Yes there is a Lotta plastic in two tone green and black. The camera hails from China like the Dubblefilm clones. And core spec resembles the other film company cameras.

But it doesn't have the shared design features they have. It is actually slightly smaller and its lens sits to right of centre whereas the other cameras sit to the left (including the Harman Reloadable).

(L) to (R) Dubblefilm Show, Agfaphoto Analogue Phoro Camera, Kodak M35 and Our EZ35. The first 3 only differ cosmetically. The Harman is different stuff.

More obvious on the rear. All have same door, thumbwheel and thumb depression bar the EZ35

The design is very similar to the later Barclaycard Prom camera which lacked a motor drive. The small ridge to stop you from sliding your finger over the flash the circular area around lens and the red eye LED are all very similar. As is the 3 way lens cover switch.

My gut feeling is this is an off the shelf design but I haven't found the OEM yet.

Later Barclaycard Promo Camera - on some levels so similar to The EZ35, just lacks the winder.

How does it handle then ?

The back of the box is actually the quick start manual

It's easy to load - insert film, pull leader over take up drum. I'd go to the other side and try to snag it over one of the take up dimples- the folk at Harman told me that some folks can miss load by not doing that but I had no issues

The viewfinder is no frills and only covers about 40% of the actual frame.

The red lines roughly show the area seen through the viewfinder from this shot. Ilford HP5

At least it's central horizontally.

The camera is easy to hold and shoot. Keeping the shutter depressed after a shot stops the motordrive. This allows you to be stealth in street photography but is shared with many a vintage camera.

The wider is not the quietest. The given AA battery doesn't do this camera justice and I found the motor drive slowing incredibly after about 24 shots, leading to me to have to press several times to get the drive to wind on enough to cock the shutter.

1 AA battery powers this. Just use branded and not what's supplied.

A slightly used Duracell worked much better with issues on my second roll but was starting to struggle by the end of a third roll. This eats batteries for breakfast but at least with no CPU you cans swap out a dying battery. The camera doesn't auto rewind at the end - a switch on the base need to be pushed. It leaves the leader out if that's important.

The bridge centrally looks fine here but move off and things degrade rapidly. the left banking is very blurry. Harman EZ35 with HP5. 2021. Click on image for original.

Results

For a plastic lens the camera is quite sharp centrally but it falls off quickly to the edges. It manages to give reasonable although soft focus central to quite long distances but the fall off increases. It does it best work (centrally at least) from 1-10m. There is some pincushion distortion evident and fringing is noticeable but not awful for the class. Flaring is evident and not in a good way so best avoid shooting into the sun. It isn't particularly distinctive in its images - You'd struggle to telll if they were taken on this or many other plastic lensed numbers,

this shot probably illustrates all that is good and bad here. Central it isn't bad with the distant bridge just a little soft but come out a little to the back of the chairs in Foreground and it degrades. The Pincushion distortion is also obvious. EZ35 with Kodak Ultramax 400 2021. Click on image for bigger version.

Look this is about average for a plastic fixed focus camera and places it ahead of many reloadable disposable. The Dubblefilm class models are optically are a little better and add a more distinctive feel but this isn't far behind.

Cost

Harman are selling this currently for £47.99. This place sit on a par cost wise with the Dubblefilm show which granted you get a designer but naff bag and a fantastic lanyard but no film and manual advance. It costs twice the price of the Kodak M35 although that again comes with no film. It is likely to drop a bit in cost as did the Harman Reloadable (now sounding a bargain at a penny shy of 28 quid with 2 rolls of film - shame about the shi*ty winder)

EZ35 with Kodak Ultramax 400. Dumfries 2021. Click on image for larger Original.

Final Thoughts

Bravo Harman.

This is actually useable camera and unique in being motor driven. the later is a mixed bag. For the future of film photography this is a big deal. This is the first film camera in many years to have a motordrive built in. But it sits in a class where most of won't mind using a thumb advance

Optically this lags just behind the Dubblefilm Show and the clones. That's worth noting as camera like the Kodak M35 can be picked up for half the price. But this come with film and the camera is more advanced with the winder, red-eye and lens cover. Of course you can get a vintage number but this is important for another reason.

And it is important for the future. It does mean you can buy a camera in 2021 with a built in auto wind. Doesn't sound much but it does mean the ability to make more advanced cameras exists in 2021 and that's a good thing. In the last few years we've seen a growth of film cameras. the bulk have been basic but a few like this Tashica… (opps I mean) Yashica MF-2 and Lomography's in roads into Instax are important. None of these are spectacular but show we can still build more advanced cameras.

And That's a good thing even if the EZ35 isn't for you.

EZ35 with HP5. Dumfries 2021. Click on image for full size

" vintage" Alternatives ?

I use vintage with a small v here for a reason. Ever since George Eastman gave use the Brownie, there's been a market for cheap basic cameras. Kodak's move to the instamatic 126 cartridge helped to drive the fixed everything plastic cam market.

Whilst some folk get misty eyed about instamatics or 110, for me the heyday is the 80's until the early years of this century with the near disposable cameras. Popular as exactly that - cameras you could take to the beach and took useable but still better than Grandpa's Box camera shots. Ironically that's where the new market is going back to at the moment

This however means there are tons of options. A good place to start is looking at anything made by Halina, Vivitar, Concord and Hanimex. Some I've reviewed are the Halina Vision XF, Le Clic C170 (no flash but the 470 is the same with flash), Vivitar T201Lx/kodak KV250 and of course the legendary VUWS and its clones (if you can live without flash)

They all lack winders - I mean you can understand why bother. But some basic models with winders. These almost always offer some exposure control. Of those 2 stand out.

Firstly the Goko UF2. By exposure control, you adjust the aperture to match film speed. nothing else -there is no auto exposure or varible shutter here. It has a glass lens but it does achieve that 'I can't believe it's not focusable' UF look. This model and the UF lens would be the basis of a host of bigger name basic cameras. Including I suspect some of the following. It perhaps is too clinically good however.

My other is the plastic fixed focus Olympus Trip. The glass lensed models are better and the Olympus Trip 505 stands out as a camera which is flawed but in a good way (aka the Olympus Lomo) .

Olympus Trip 505 - The Olympus Lomo ?

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#35mmpointshoot #cameras #2021 #35mm #analogue #camera #ez35 #fixedfocus #flash #harman #motorwind #new #review

So I bought the Cheapest “New” 35mm on eBay – the SnapJack Review

With the arrival of the Dubblefilm Show, it got me thinking. What is the cheapest 35mm film camera you can buy on eBay. So you know a few days later that arrived. Trouble is the SnapJack technically isn't new. It is in fact a rebadged Concord 850 Slim Line. But what do you get for your Tenner ?

I've tread this ground before with the cheapest digitals on eBay and wish. These turned out to be the same scamera but in very different clothing. But this actually is what it says it is a proper 35mm camera and makes no inflated claims (kudos to you SnapJack)

SnapJack with Expired kodak BW400CN. 2020

Before you rush in and say but I saw this waterproof camera for less. I made a decision to go with the cheapest UK or EU sourced eBay camera I could get. Yes I could get something from China or Hong Kong for less. But the camera had to be sourced from more than one UK and appear new.

I got the latter wrong but it is available on a few camera sites like filmcamerastore.co.uk or Loaf Cameras. Loaf currently sell it for just a Fiver (postage takes that nearer the tenner mark). Mine came from eBay for around a tenner.

In original packaging. Yup colour balance all over the shop despite my best effort in PS. The little bits in packaging are the remnants of rubber bands.

But this isn't really new. Although the camera packaging suggests it's sold by The Original Union Jack co . It turns out the camera is actually made by Concord Camera Corp and sold by it's UK wing. The game is further given away as whilst no name appears on the English and European languages instructions. On the Japanese & Chinese ones it is the Concord model's name

Concord Camera Corp

Concord is a name familiar with plastic camera aficionados. This US company sold a range of plastic camera sunder the various brands like Le Clic, Argus or Keystone. They also made camera for or licenced the name of bigger brands like Kodak and Polaroid. And in fact this is just a reskinned Concord 850 Slim Line.

Concord 850 Slime line. Image by Alfred Sigaro. This work is used and licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 2.0 Generic License.

Concord began life in 1982. Launched by the enigmatic Jack C. Benun the company aimed to produced cheap but reliable cameras mainly made in China. Aimed for the cheap end competing against the likes of Haking, Hanimex and later vivitar. It would have its ups and downs as this post reveals but by the turn of the century was a major player generating $173.2 million in revenues in 2000. But they have produced some collectable cameras like the Le Clic Le Mini.

Problem is Concord folded in 2009.

SnapJack with Kodak ColorPlus 200. 2020

So our camera is at least 11 years old. This would make some sense as the rubber band around the instructions had dried out and turned into little worm like fragments. I think it is more likely late 90's design. Later Concord cameras were even more compact and more typical like the Polaroid 170BV or the Barclaycard one I tried.

SnapJack Specs

SnapJack or should I say a very British Concord 850 Slim Line

It is very similar to the Le Clic 170 except it has a flash. This time it came with a manual though. So we know it's a fixed focus simple 34mm lens with a fixed f/8.5 aperture and a single 1/100 shutter. The manual gives a focal range of 4ft to infinity.

That's pretty much the same as my guessed spec on the 170. Both this and the 170 have Japan Optics logo which is mean to give the unwary the illusion of quality.

SnapJack with Expired Kodak BW400CN. 2020

The camera will work without batteries but you need 2AA to power the manually triggered flash. The flash has a range of up to 8ft with 100 ISO film. And the manually helpfully suggest if you're mad enough to load this with 1600 ISO you can get a flash range of 25ft. For more realistic speeds add 4ft for each stop over 100 ISO)

As you'd expect the film plane is curved.

There is no tripod or cable points.

Build

This is a plastic Lo-Fi camera. It's a bit creak but I give Concord credit they did an okay job for what it is. The Concord version version came in either satin black or shiny silver. The SnapJack is a bit more colourful with it's Union Jack print.

The top of the SnapJack has some nifty 3D effect printing going on

Let's be straight this was geared at young tourists who'd forgotten a camera in London. It would also have sold well for folk wanting a near disposable to take to Glasto or other festivals. And heck if you're lomographer sat in Brooklyn I get that British cool vibe might appeal.

Flags however are symbols. And this perhaps is viewed differently depending where you are in the world and what community you belong to. Can see it selling well at Ibrox but no so well at Parkhead.

Use

The camera has a conventional easy load system making this a breeze to load. To advance there is the same strange sliding mechanism I found on the Le Clic 170. It is the same mechanism you find on most 110 camera.

They even shoved a Union Jack on the back in case you forgot !!

The simple viewfinder has no frame markings. The Only other control is the flash which is a tad slow IMHO to charge. it has a small green ready LED by switch on rear.

The slider below the lens moves a cover in place and locks the shutter. This is nice to see in such a basic camera.

The camera has no rewind lock. So don't fiddle too such with the rewind knob whilst shooting (I only clocked this later as I like to pre-tense my film with new cameras when winding one to check it's loaded okay.

Viewfinder is basic but okay. It is central but has some vertical parallax issues on closer shots. The Flash takes a wee bit to charge.

Results

There is no exposure control so that bit is down to you deciding what film to load for the weather. I'd recommend a 400 ISO negative film or 200 ISO on really good days because you're relying on the latitude.

So the sign and the life buoy box are sharper peripherally than the background. SnapJack with expired BW400CN. Dumfries 2020.

The simple lens has some pincushion distortion and is pretty soft. The best focus is centrally about 1.5-3. It's okay to around 5m but then falls off rapidly which is nuts for a camera being aimed at tourists. It softens to the corners as well, but ironically remain sharper for close objects than the centre is for for distant. There is fringing evident mainly at the edges.

Long is just woeful. This is the usual Nith shot.

SnapJack with ColorPlus 200. 2020

If you zoom in this just get worse.

Close crop of above shot. Possibly one of the worst crops I've had

Things came out quite vivid in both 200ISO Kodak Colourplus but also quite intense sky with the BW400CN C-41 B&W I used. This makes it of interest to the Lo-Fi crowd but there are belter choices.

The flash is basic but works. It causes an artificial vignette effect (the aperture does not change).

Flash is okay if you stick in range but close up you do get Parallax issues. SnapJack with Kodak ColorPlus 200. 2020

The State of the Union - Conclusions

The SnapJack kinda fails as a tourist camera as it can't shoot long stuff to save a toffee. You'd have been better buying a series of Kodak funsavers. That fact illustrates this isn't an alternative to a single use Camera. For optical quality. Most of the reloadable disposables I've tested over the last years and a half are better. With the Lomography Simple Use being the logical standout. In it's class (I guess the near disposable) cameras old and new outshine it. Take a look at the likes of the [Halina Vision X F](http://Halina Vision XF), or the cult Halina Panorama (with or without flash) or the more recent Dubblefilm Show. And for the same cost as a SnapJack you can pick up the Iconic Konica Pop or the lethally sharp but rare Goko UF.

It's sibling the Le Clic 170 was actually slightly better optically. But there is some charm in styling and the image quality and tone might well appear to some Hipsters whom dig the British thang. It'll also sell well to Rangers fans ; -0

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#35mmpointshoot #cameras #pointshoot #35mm #camera #china #concord #concord850slimline #film #fixedfocus #flash #plastic #snapjack #toycamera

Universal Constant – Goko UF2 Review

The Goko UF was one of my better finds from this little known Japanese company. But they even gloss over it in their history in favour of this model . But why is that and is the UF2 any better ?

Goko UF2 with Kentmere Pan 400. Dumfries 2020

Goko are still in business and still make camera lenses but not bodies. Back in the 80's they developed a new lens design for fixed focus cameras known as Universal Focus (UF) which allowed both close and long focus. The company still bigs this up on their site. Especially as it would allow them to become a massive maker of entry level cameras for better known Japanese makes.

Goko UF

But it wasn't the orginal UF that achieved that. It was the UF2.

Lets be clear there were not high end cameras. Goko had spotted another market

"Japanese cameras are high-end and thus very expensive, and the market is focused on developed countries, which comprise only 13% of the global population. That is to say, nobody produces cameras for the other 87%, despite considering Japan to be a camera-making powerhouse. Now, let's produce cameras for the other 87%."

Goko corporate website's history pages

In fact Goko was not alone in targeting that market as most makes would produce stripped back more basic cameras during this period and even before. The Agfa click III for example sold for export to India back in the 70's.

Whom Goko produced cameras for isn't known officially. But I do wonder if camera like the Olympus Supertrip or some of the Ricoh YF series have some link.

Devorgilla Bridge 2020. Goko UF2 with lomo 800CN on 1000ISO setting

The Goko UF Series

The original Goko UF lands in 1982, a basic fixed everything flash camera with a stunningly good lens. There are 2 versions of this - one has no settings. But another exists with a slider moving between 2 ISO speed settings (adjusting the aperture I guess). It may actually be the mythic UF-1 which was launched in 1985 according to camera-wiki. It's a model I've never seen a photo for but have seen lots of UF with the ISO switch.

The Later models have DX coding and some have AF. But most remain limited in terms of exposure control. Here is the list of the models.

• Goko UF (1982) - fixed 38mm 1:5.6 lens
• Goko UF1 (1985) -unseen ? variant of UF
• Goko UF2 (1985)
• Goko UF-0 (1986) - seem updated version of ISO switching UF
• Goko UF5 AF (1986) - AF 35mm 1:3.8 DX coding
• Goko UF-10 Macro (1988) - fixed focus with macro mode 34mm 1:3.8
• Goko UF-20 AF (1988) -AF 35mm F3.8
• Goko UF-30 AF (1989) - AF 35mm F3.8
• Goko UF-50 AF (1989) - AF 35mm F3.8
• Goko UF-70 Tele (1991) - Fixed focus switches between 35mm & 55mm
• Goko UF-100 (1991) - fixed focus 35mm 1:4.5

Goko UF2 with Kentmere Pan 400. Dumfries 2020

The Goko UF2

This a fixed focused 35mm viewfinder like it's predecessor. It is plastic bodied with an even more distinct 80's look. It looks like any other cheap camera of the era. Like the UF it has a clear plastic panel above the lens that does it's best a trapping dust inside.

Goko UF2

Optically there is a coated 35mm 1:3.8 Universal focus glass lens. I'm guessing it likely has fixed shutter speed around 1/100. It differs from the UF in having a motordrive and an adjustable ISO setting. The latter changes the size of a 2 blade aperture to the rear of the shutter. The options are 100, 200, 400 and that weird 80's setting of 1000 ISO.

Dumfries 2020. Goko UF2 with lomo 800CN on 1000ISO setting

Turning the flash on widens the aperture further and removes a rear element from the lens (I suspect that's to do with long focus). If I'm guessing without flash the apertures are around f/5.6 for 100 ISO, f/8 200 ISO , f/11 for 400ISO and f16 or smaller for 1000 ISO

There is a sliding shutter cover which also locks the shutter. You get no tripod point - not surprising given the lack of a timer or cable point.

Base of UF2. Note the stiff ISO switch and the shutter cover/lock switch. It's also made in Japan - a rarity for a cheap camera

In use

It has a fairly standard loading system for a motordrive camera. Pull the leader over take up drum and the camera should do the rest when you close the back and press the shutter. You set the ISO by a slider on the base. I found mines incredibly stiff. Motorwind not only moves the film counter on top-plate but also a film drive window so you know it's winding okay. You need to push & hold a switch to rewind the film.

Top plate of Goko UF2

In low light as you depress the shutter a red LED beside the viewfinder comes on encouraging you to use flash. This is manually turned on via slider at the front. The shutter button need a bit of depression to fire which I like. I've had too many cheap compacts with too little movement range on the shutter meaning you take the photo before you get a chance to respond to the low light circuit. The viewfind is simple with no framelines. It is okay but shots close can be slightly off centre.

The winder isn't quiet but about average for cheap camera. When you end a roll you need to rewind manually. Like may cameras it won't wind on until you release the shutter. Handy to know if you want to use for street photography.

Dumfries 2020. Goko UF2 with lomo 800CN on 1000ISO setting

The savvy amongst you will have realised you can exploit the changing aperture to let you shoot in lower light (for example with 400 ISO dropping the setting to 100 ISO). You will of course need to ignore the lo-light circuit.

Results

Goko certainly make areasonable fixed focus lens. There is minimal pincushion radial distortion on most settings with little or no vignetting. The focus does live up to the UF reputation with being okay to good at near, medium and far range. It's not razor sharp but more than passable for standard size prints. Long shooting is a smidge worse but still okay making this optically much better than many a big brand cheap fixed focus.

You can get a impressive degree reasonable focus as in this shot with 400 ISO or less

Goko UF2 with Kentmere Pan 400. Yes the lens is actually that good.

The images don't fall off that much at the edges or corners too. ther is a little deterioration but again not bad.

Pretty good but I prefer the original UF images. It just feels sharper optically and looks better.

Goko UF2 with Lomo 800CN. Still good details but the 1000 ISO setting means narrower aperture which means more issues with diffraction. Dumfries 2020

The exception is 1000 ISO setting where the image softens a bit more especially on long shots. Vignetting also can just be noticed. It's likely down to diffraction and you also notice more weakening at the edge of the frame than you do with 400 ISO film. It's not awful but having shot some 800ISO on this I 'd stick to 400 ISO or slower.

Final Thoughts

This camera is way better than many of bigger brand rival simple cameras optically. It would make a good choice of cheap fall back basic camera where you don't wanna expose for vintage or expensive gear but want more than a disposable or very basic plastic camera.

It lacks the charm of it's rare predecessor the UF IMHO and is a bit of a 80's black brick. Diffraction makes the ability to use 800-1000 ISO film limited. Now it and its siblings win the turf war against low end fixed focus cameras. But better cameras like the half frame Olympus PEN EE series are much better optically and have decent exposure control.

So in summary pretty good for 80's fixed focus Brick but styling lets it down.

Alternatives

Olympus Supertrip

The Olympus Supertrip is actually similar optically and I do wonder if Goko had a hand in it. It isn't motorised and therefore quieter in use although it pegs an upper 400 ISO speed. The [Konica P](http://konica pop)o[p](http://konica pop) is a more robust and much better locking camera but similar spec - later Pop models are worth a look too. The Hanimex 35SE is more simple but also has a surprisingly good lens and looks better.

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#35mmpointshoot #cameras #pointshoot #1980s #35mm #camera #film #fixedfocus #flash #goko #gokouf2 #japanese #uf2

Poundland Digitals – 1- Fujifilm DX-10

I've looked at picking up film cameras for peanuts before on this site. I thought I could see what I could get for a pound or less in digital cameras. The DX-10 is a 1999 early consumer model came through the door for just 99p before postage. But is this camera that once cost £250 worth a look ?

Digital at Fujifilm

Fujifilm have been a major player in the development of digital cameras since the beginning. They demonstrated their first video still camera in 1985 but would be pipped by Canon to launch first.

But more important was the 1988 Fujix DS-1P. The first true digital camera publicly shown to the world. It never launched commercially but the 1989 Fujix DS-X according to Fujifilm was. (There is some debate about this).

Fujix DS-1P. Image created by Camera-wiki Flickr account from the original image produced in december 1888 popular Photography issue and is treated as fair use (click image for more details. Image shown is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 2.0 Generic License.

A decade later when the DX-10 arrives. By then Fujifilm was one of the 4 leading digital manufacturers by sales. Alongside Canon, Nikon and Olympus, they collectively made up 60% of the sales in 2000.

Fujifilm DX-10

The DX-10 was the last DX camera. It was also known as the CLIP-IT80 in Japan. Confusingly DX models along side other cameras were sold under the CLIP It labels in Japan.

The camera likely evolved into the MX-1200/Finepix 1200 which seems only differs with an updated 1.3 Mega Pixel (MP) sensor. Both that and the DX-10 aimed for entry level consumer. The Launch price of the DX-10 was $299USD although street price was nearer $260-270. It sold for around £250GBP here in Blighty according to the review in Steve's Zone.

That's not an uncommon price for a pre 2000 basic digital. The list price equates to just under $470USD today which will buy a DSLR with lens kit and still get some change. But this was a different era.

Flash shot on DX-10 in lower light. The camera and flash work well together within their limits Dumfries 2021.

Design

The DX-10 is actually fairly streamlined but big compared to a basic digital today. It's more like the size of a cheap 35mm film camera. It looks pleasing enough. All the functioning bits are lopsided presumably to make way for the 4 AA batteries (it's very happy using rechargeables). It's a plastic body with a two tone effect and seems to have been available in 2 styles at least.

Rear view of DX-10

On camera-wiki there is a version that is almost a complete reverse with black /silver to my silver black model. there is no lens cap or cover. The lens is protected by a glass panel. On the rear you have a command dial, jog button and LCD. that's alongside the on/off switch

Under the hood of the DX-10

Pretty basic by today's standards and not exactly high end by 1999 standards. there is a 0.8 MP 1/3″ CCD sensor. This gives 4:3 images 1,024 x768 pixels (aka XGA). That's matched to a 5.5mm 1:4 Fujinon fixed focus lens. That's equivalent to a 40mm on a 35mm camera.

The camera offers the tosh of digital zoom which you're best to ignore (just crop the shot later).

Lens & Viewfinder complex on DX-10

The focal range is from 0.7m to infinity in normal mode but a small switch on the side allows a macro mode of 10cm.

Surprisingly this features a 64 zone TTL metering system (pay attention high end Canon G1). Kinda makes up for the focus I suppose. On paper this is much better than many digitals made even a 3-4 years later. The manual lists shutter speed from 1/4 to 1/5000 sec and ISO fixed to be equivalent to 150ISO. Aperture appears to be either f/4 or f/8. In use I go down to 1/3 sec. There is no image stabilisation as you'd expect. The camera does warn of shake and has a self timer mode and tripod mount.

In good light this can do okay images. DX-10, Dumfries 2021. Note barrel distortion on posts.

Storage

So the good news is this has removable media and that media was designed for cameras. Sadly it's Smart media and a a word of warning you will gamble more on getting a card that works than buying the camera.

Smart media arrives in 1995. The crapness of the format probably gets best illustrated by the fact its 'lofty' ambitions were to replace the floppy disk. In the mid 90's it looked attractive. Most of the alternatives were frankly crap with the exception of compact flash.

Micro SD (SDHC), SD (SDHC), Smart Media & Compact flash

Smart Media is a ludicrously thin format even today but not that small in other dimensions. Weirdly it is actually bigger than Compact flash when laid out . It achieves this by having just a single NAND flash chip and no built in controller. It achieved quite a success initially and by 2001 wikipedia indicate it cornered half the market. But it would rapidly die off.

What killed it was the design limitations. The single chip design meant a limit to maximal capacity. No Card bigger than 128MB was ever release which was fine for our DX-10 in 1999 but within a few years GB storage capacities were typical. Worse still is the format has no inbuilt wear levelling which means the cards burn out much quicker than rivals. Worse still is the fact it is possible to corrupt these card making them unusable even with a format. Fujifilm and Olympus switch to xD cards which allowed for bigger capacity but guess what - no wear levelling.

Funnily they died out too.

Most of the Caul (weir) is okay but the lens softens off for foreground and background objects. Background shows limits of dynamic range too. DX-10, Dumfries 2021

Flash, LCD & Viewfinder

Built in flash offers a range from 0.7-3m at f/4. There is no way of connecting an external unit. It's default mode is auto but usig the men system you can switch to red-eye reduction, forced on and forced off

LCD on the DX-10 in standard mode. Bit washed out with age

The rear 1.8″ LCD panel offers 70K pixels (that's less than 320×240). It is typical of the era and mines is looking a little washed out. It struggled in bright light but actually was more useable than some later cameras. In those circumstances the simple viewfinder is of help. It suffers from Parallax error so the camera actually recommends just using the LCD in macro shooting.

Command dial

Command dial of the DX-10

The big chunky command dial is the way you access every mode even it's direct print mode. For shooting you actually just have 3 modes. normal, timer & manual. Manual is basically like normal but you can adjust WB , EV, flash EV, slow sync and set for continuous shooting (9 shots in 2 seconds).

The other modes allow you to set up the camera (including toggling the flash from auto to on, off & red eye), Other setting include playback and direct printing but also weirdly dedicated file delete and protect options.

Irritatingly most camera settings need to be set in Setup. It is worth flipping quality to fine from the default normal as it has a massive impact on the levels of compression

There is no video mode. Not surprising but I always view that as the killer app for digital cameras moving forward.

You can get away with web images with this camera but not much else. DX-10, Dumfries 2021

Linkage

Although USB had arrived in 1996, this camera linked to a PC via the RS-232 Serial cable. The PC I type on lacks that port and the cable was missing. So I can't tell you if the camera works on a modern PC & O/S like windows 10. I was able to use a the 2003 Olympus Camedia C-120 which connects via USB as a card reader. You can also buy USB Smart media card readers for a few quid but be aware many modern readers don't have a slot for it.

Side of DX-10. The Macro toggle switch is at the top and ports for TV connection RS-232 cable and a optional DC power supply

There was also a single RCA cable for playback on a TV. Again mines was missing so can't test that. There was an optional DC PSU.

DX-10 in Use

Although it's unloaded weight is just 200gms things gear up with 4 batteries in. It is surprisingly heavy loaded out but still wieldable 1 handed. The on switch is surprisingly stiff but that might be an age thing. Very slow boot and then it charges the flash before you can use in low light. By default it shoots with the screen off and that takes several seconds to come up making it on average 10-15 seconds to go from on to ready in indoor situations. The lag turning on the screen is glacial and in fact the shutter button lag is less noticeable because of it. Lag is under a second with screen on for shot.

There is no dedicated flash button so to control the flash you need to head to setup and circle between the flash options.

Unless the LCD is in use you don't get a review image in it. the camera has the usual bleeps to let you know you've recorded a shot.

Best results are with objects ~2-5m and in good even light. DX-10 2021

Results

I wasn't expecting much from this but it did better than I suspected. But given my expectations were pretty low don't get to excited.

Metering

The metering is okay in good light. But I'd twigged there might be some issues as it seems to be the same or similar to the metering on the 2003 FinePix S3000 bridge camera I tested a few months back. Both struggled a bit on overcast days making for dramatic skies but underexposed foregrounds. The same happened with brighter skys and lower lit foregrounds. This isn't helped as the dynamic range of the sensor is only marginally better than non-existent.

Exposure was generally good in good light this shot. But tended to under expose on duller days. DX-10 Dumfries 2021

With more uniform lighting or using flash things are better and it copes generally well. Flash broadly works well within it's limitations. And the camera does give you Flash EV compensation. That's not something you'll find on Today's budget numbers.

Night shooting with the DX-10 ain't a great idea . This was the only 'useable' shot I managed out of about a dozen I took. You'll need to tripod mount the camera or prop it on a wall as I did here using the self timer mode. Interesting the shutter speed was listed as 1/3 sec slower than the manual suggests. Dumfries 2021.

Forget night shooting. You can get by but it's a push with the ISO locked at 150ISO and maximal exposure of f/4 @ 1/4. To achieve that you'll need to tripod mount or brace the camera as there is no image stabilisation.

Optics

Optically this no classic fixed focus lens. It fustrates me a bit as Olympus put brilliant optic on their PEN EE half frame cameras back in the 60's but yet we have an all singing and dancing digital from a big Japanese make 4 decades later which is wobbly to say the least. Fuji aren't alone for basic cameras but they were looking for nearly 300 dollars for this.

The foreground building is okay but the lens gets softer further back and worse to the edges making the building in the rear look a little bit French impressionist. DX-10, Dumfries 2021

In fairness the DX-10 isn't much worse optically compared to the 2003 Olympus Camedia C-120.

The Lens is tad soft and this worse the more you move away from the 1-5m sweet spot and from the centre of the image. It's better than a disposable and cheap 35mm cameras. There is some barrel radial distortion but it isn't that noticeable. Macro mode can be sharp but you've got to be en pointe with this. There is a little fringing evident but this isn't as noticeable as the processing artefacts.

This is a macro shot taken on DX-10 of my PC screen. There is a little fringing but not bad. But you do need to pretty en pointe

Processing

That gets more complex by the camera's notable over sharpening and compression artefacts. This creates a dilemma today do you live with that to improve image or do you go with softer shots which you can try and sort in post. But given the 0.8MP and lack of RAW - it probably is easier to leave turned on. The camera's sharpness setting are accessed in setting mode.

Shot taken on soft (ie. little) sharpness on DX-10. 2021

Move to normal sharpness. The softness is reduced with the price of more artefacts but a happy balance. DX-10, 2021

Now on Hard Sharpness. Processing artefacts much more evident. No Gain so avoid. Dx-10, 2021

As mentioned earlier buy the biggest smart media card you can find and stick the camera to fine on the quality mode. Normal saves you space but the compression really impacts on the shots.

Not bad for colour balance. Typical muted natural Fujifilm tones. DX-10 2021

Colour balance is pretty good. This camera has the typical muted, natural palette you get from Fujifilm film and digitals. It broadly did well but like many cameras of it's age struggled a bit on AWB with modern LCD bulbs giving a yellow/orange cast.

The shots are okay for web work and small prints though. My new but cheap HD webcam takes stills of similar quality but with more distortion.

Image taken on DX-10, 2021

Image taken on a EtyouMe HD webcam camera 2021. More distorted but

Price now to then ratio

So the DX-10 in the UK cost around £250GBP new meaning I paid about 0.4% today. The camera was supplied with a not very whooping 2MB smart media card which to be frank you'll need to replace to use (mines was missing) as it can hold about 7 photos. A second hand 64MB card will set you back 8-12 times the cost of this camera and runs the risk of becoming toast pretty quickly.

Final thoughts on the DX-10

The DX-10 is best seen as an example of the evolution of consumer digital photography rather than a practical shooter. Early Prosumer cameras like the 2000 Canon Powershot G1 can kinda still cut it today. But this at best compares to a modern cheap webcam.

It is a thing of it's time and perhaps tellingly was deemed by Image Resource as _" an ideal first camera" _. Entry level cameras would be hugely better within years and selling for half it's cost. My Olympus Camedia C-120 is a much better deal despite having a equally not great fixed focus lens. It is faster in use and has less sensor issues and can be plugged into amodern PC saving you a bob or to on quirky card readers.

And this explains why digital sales wouldn't really pick up until then. September 1999 Popular Photography carried an ad from B&H. The DX-10 was being sold for $269.95USD with a free Smart media to floppy adaptor. The same ad shows you could have bought a lot more film camera for your money. In fact you could buy either an olympus mju-II (stylus Epic) plus a Yashica T4 super plus or lens kit Canon EOS Rebel G (500N). And still have money for film.

And I suspect you'd be doing well to pick a T4 and mju II for $269 today.

As to the DX-10 ?
Unless you have a hankering for historical mediocrity hold onto your quid.

Other information

in addition to the items linked in the post DigitalKamera Museum and camera-wiki both have pages on this.

The post Poundland Digitals - 1- Fujifilm DX-10 appeared first on Canny Cameras.

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