Custom fuse & relay box installed. ⚡

Printed the outer frame in PETG and used PC for the relay holders for better heat resistance.

Fits in the original location and holds:
• Eaton fusebox for 20 blade fuses
• 5 relays (standard 4 or 5 pin)
• headlight dimmer
• turn signal flasher

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Inverter mounted ⚡

Next to find some thick orange cable...

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⚡ in finnish we'd say "johtohommissa" 😅

Wiring the main 12V harness.

Of course there's a way of making everything complicated, so in my obsession of avoiding unnecessary splices and connectors I went and bought 90deg "flag" spade connectors for H4 sockets only to find those can't be crimped with normal pliers.

Luckily pliers are cheap and nowadays I know how to use an angle grinder.

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Minor progress update again. :)

Got the leaking steering box finally sealed and reinstalled. Steering is working again! Then went on to powder coat and bolt down the gas pedal mount, brake fluid reservoir and finally installed bunch of plugs and made some lasercut cover plates to cover all the (now) unnecessary holes in the floor.

Meanwhile been planning the motor phase connectors and inverter placement. I don't have enough room to comfortably pull the phases out from the top as they normally do, but I *think* I can connect to them from the side via a small maintenance hatch instead. 😏

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Sneak peak. Waiting for some parts to arrive, so woodworking for a change meanwhile.

I want a warm wood finish for the interior instead of the original vinyl leather look. Took measurements, lasercut out of baltic birch plywood. Might still add one or two more coats of oil, but already looking a lot like what I planned! 😊 You really learn a lot when doing all on your own! ...but it's a very slow progress. 😂

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Back from holiday, finished the final motor mount and there it finally is! 😊

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😵‍💫

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Summoning the 4th state of matter to cut 6mm steel with a press of a button feels like violating some laws of dark magic.

Plasma cutting parts to be welded for the upper motor mount.

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Motor is IN!

Still missing the top mount, some suitable bolts and powder coating but...

IT'S THERE. IT FITS. IT'S ELECTRIC ⚡ ⚡

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Something easier for a change. Measurements from the old worn out kickpanels, lasercut new ones. 😊

Need to find some suitable fabric for upholstery 🤔

Oh and of course saving and cleaning the old stickers...

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Couple of youtube vids later, learning how to use Fusion simulation features. Added more strength to the motor mounts based on the feedback from earlier calculations + simulation environment.

Now stable for:
100kg * 9.81 downwards force (weight of the stack)
280Nm * 7.94 (reduction gearbox) = 2223Nm rotational force

with ~2.4 safety factor. I'd have liked SF >3 but ah well. I don't think this steel will ever see full 280Nm and I'd be more concerned it'll tear the original engine mount rubbers into pieces far before that.

Next up.. steel?

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Quick update about motor mounts.

Lasercut templates from clear acrylic to check that everything fits and oh do they. It's so satisfying to draw things onto the 3D-scan, make templates and find out it's within 0.25mm!

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Polling fedi engineer people before attempting to learn how to calculate this myself. 😄

Mounting the motor like this is going to be alright? Right? 😄 (view from above)

There's going to be 4th mounting point above the stack as well just for the safety. But ideally I want these three to be able to support the motor on their own.

Using the original mounting points and rubber vibration dampener mounts, but slightly concerned about the long beams deflection/yield. Would *not* want to lose the motor onto a motorway!

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Practice time over and on to the real business. 😎

Rear motor mount will attach to the original engine mounting bar rubbers and has two L-brackets to hug the sides of the motor. This will provide a subframe/cradle of sorts for the inverter, charger, etc to stack up next to the motor.

Front motor mount will connect to the rear axle where the transmission nose bolts onto. Still have to figure out 3rd mounting point, preferably above somehow.

I'm trying to design following the original mounting points and avoid making changes to the chassis. Bolt-on is the best. 😅

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– und ja, auch wenn andere komisch gucken... Ich liebe es! ☕️🏕
#vanlifedreams #vanlifereality #vanlifeusa #projectvanlife #vwt4camper #camper #diycamper #homeiswhereyouparkit #langzeitreise #campingreality #vanlifeexplorers #vanlifereality #vanlife #vanlifeaddict #travel #photography

🚐Mitten hinein ins Waldbrandgebiet 😯🔥
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...

More aircon in preparation for the future heatwaves. 😊 Sliding window, that seal was by far the worst to install! Took three tries to get it.

Also check out another vehicle project in local #hackerspace #makerspace recently back on the road again! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZ1qq7INEWA

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Needed something easier to do while procrastinating with the metalwork and motor mounts...

This van won't be having a gear stick anymore, but I need something to switch between P-R-N-D so I found a simple 4-pos rotary switch and 3D modeled and printed a switch knob for that in original style. 😊

Files if you need: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6622206

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So what about the battery pack then. 🤔 I recently did some quick sketching and...

I'll split the four module Tesla M3 pack into two packs with two modules each. Rear pack sits below the rear seat and the front pack against the wall between the cargo space and the cabin, probably with some furniture on top of it in the future too.

🤔 🤔 🤔

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