A sleeve for OD125 wastewater pipes happened to be the perfect size for this particular cable. It has a smooth outer surface so the cable won't be damaged even if it slides on the inside of the reel.
The side walls were cut out from 16mm particle board using a jigsaw. They are screwed onto four sections of wood slats, cut to match the length of the pipe sleeve.

The design works quite well so far (better than expected in fact). 🤩

2/2

The last time I bought Cat7 cable it came in shrink wrap rather than on a cable reel, tangling up during unrolling. I didn't find any ready-made reels that I could place the cable on (without respooling) so I built my own.

1/2

#DIY

@manyfold @3dprinting
How do I follow a creator from another instance/software?
When following the user name link on a model, I get a list of models rather than a profile page. Entering this URL into search in a client app (which AFAIK is the usual way for cross-instance interaction) yields no results.
The follow button on the bottom of the model list yields an error message that suggests it's only intended for local users ("The change you wanted was rejected.").

@olimex
Does USB-ISO-HS support hot-plugging / re-enumeration on the device side?
I already have a USB isolator but that one does not notice when the USB device is disconnected or power cycled so it cannot be used for isolating a Device under Test that gets power cycled or rebooted during tests.

@ozeng
Yeah, the digital scale performed pretty much as I expected from a cheap commercial product for household usage with no accuracy specification (and it doesn't even seem to matter if it's a brand-name one from a local shop or a direct import from China). It was just the trigger for finally posting the question.
The result actually was positive since the scale did not perform considerably *worse* than I expected. Any scale I found with similar but specified precision was more than 30 times the price.

@primatdufeu
Oh, and also:
- I try to make preparing food as low-effort as possible. For example, the very first thing I bought from the money from my first client project was a dish washer. It was the best investment ever! Except for non-stick pans, I put pretty much everything in there.

- I often turn on some music (loudspeakers or headphones depending on situation) while preparing food / cooking. This actually helps a lot. Somebody else I know listens to radio plays instead.

@primatdufeu
- Level 1 (no energy but can wait a bit): put some frozen pizza in the oven. If a little energy left: put some extra spices (e.g. pepper, Tabasco Chipotle or BBQ sauce) and/or toppings (e.g. spicy cheese, bell pepper) on it.

2/4

@primatdufeu
In the past I also made
large amounts of some dishes and put them in the freezer so I could heat them in the microwave: lentil stew(red lentils are much easier to cook BTW), chili sin carne

Those may not be the healthiest options but still better than no proper food at all.

Having a limited set of "standard" dishes to choose from (and for various levels of energy) but still some variety definitely helps getting my backside up and start preparing lunch.
4/4

@primatdufeu
- Level 2 (little energy but can take the time to supervise and stir): noodles with ready-made sauce (e.g. soja "bolognese", peanut sauce "Saté"). For variation I sometimes add some extra ingredients, e.g. Feta, kidney beans or corn and/or sprinkle some spicy cheese on it and put it in the microwave for 20-30s.

In case I cook (i.e. level 2 or above) I usually make enough for at least two meals since making more is not much more effort.

3/4

@primatdufeu
This is how I do it:

- Level 0 (no energy / need food Right Now): Alnatura Veggi-Salami ("Veganer Snack nach Salami-Art (ungekühlt)"). I have this in my backpack, too.

- Level 0.5 (almost no energy / need food Right Now): buttered piece of bread and a piece of cheese.

Level 0/0.5 also apply if I have enough energy to cook but started too late (i.e. take care of blood sugar first, then start cooking).

1/4

If it were mostly about noise I could understand (depending on details you may be able to average the noise out and actually achieve higher precision) but what good does it do if the resolution is much higher than the linearity?

Triggered by a digital scale that had variations of over 20 counts during a measurement series, but I've been wondering this for a while now.
It doesn't seem to matter much what kind of instrument (or component in case of ADCs) it is or who the manufacturer is; I've seen it in insanely expensive sensors, multimeters, scales, ADCs and lots more I cannot remember.

Why is it that pretty much universally digital measuring instruments show considerably more digits than they can accurately (or at least precisely) measure?
It desn't matter if it's a "raw" ADC, a multimeter or digital scales: dropping the last decimal digit (sometimes even two) won't make the result less accurate.
Is this really just to trick naive buyers into believing the instrument is more accurate than it actually is, or is there some technical reason for this?
#metrology #electronics #physics

@skua
Probably, but then I'd have to convince the person responsible for signing off on the electrical installation that using pressure pipe is compliant with regulations. And while I'm confident that from a purely technical perspective it would be perfectly fine (e.g. high enough insulation resistance over the entire length), getting paperwork to that effect would be a major undertaking (and *way* too expensive).
1/2

@skua
I could try getting different conduit with increased rigidity and thus thicker walls (I'm pretty sure that exists, e.g. for embedding into concrete) but I already have the material at hand. Will have a look and maybe another try once I'm running out.
2/2

Designed and printed a holder for an M20 die that I intended to use for cutting an external thread onto M20 PVC pipe. The holder itself works fine, but the project was a failure: The walls of electrical conduit PVC pipes (in Germany) are too thin to cut an M20 thread on them. They simply curl up at one or more of the blades.
#3DPrinting #Tool #DIY #ThreadCutter

Background for this project: I saw that in the US (and I think UK too) threaded conduits are available, making it easier to create a watertight connection with the junction box. There's no such thing in Germany (and the NPT/BSP threads of US/UK conduits are incompatible with the metric threads used in Germany) so I wanted to try cutting a thread on the pipe myself.

If anyone has a use for this, let me know and I'll find a way to publish the (fully parameterised) OpenSCAD sources.

The PVC pipe deburrer tool I got is a "one fits all" type so naturally it doesn't really fit any size. It's hard to hold the tool straight on top of the pipe while rotating, causing sloppy results. Not much better than just using a cutter.
With the insets the result isn't perfect either (sharp edge in the middle because the two deburrer sides combined basically form a V-shape) but much better than without.

If anyone is interested in the sources (OpenSCAD, fully parameterised) just let me know and I'll figure out some way to publish them.
This is a "finished" project for now but suggestions for improvement are always welcome. Happy to learn from others.