Quick shoal waters can be scarier than rapids, but the most terrified I've been canoeing was in a 300m wide, naturally formed flood channel carved out by a major river, when suddenly trees as tall as two storey houses began rolling end over end like massive steamboat wheels on either side, fore and aft. We gripped the gunwales expecting every moment to be lifted twenty feet from the murk and then dropped back into it head first; or crushed.

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