Lmst

The electric glider's two main batteries each weigh about 16 Kg (36 lbs). I need a positive restraint system that can handle vibration and especially negative G.

Yesterday evening I epoxied in place some retaining blocks for the two battery clamping bars, but the garage gets cold overnight. I placed an incandescent lamp over the top of the battery box and wrapped some towels as a 'tent' to keep the warm air from easily escaping. This allowed the battery box to stay slightly warmer and accelerate the curing of the epoxy.

The second photo shows one end of a battery clamping bar (yellow) that fits under a carbon fiber inverted shelf (black). On each side of the clamping bar there are now two blocks of garolite (pale green) that prevent the battery block from sliding off to the side.

Garolite (G-10) is commonly used as the substrate for printed circuit boards, and you can get it in significant thickness, which is what I need.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-10_(material)

#AvGeek #Aviation #ElectricAircraft #Homebuilt #Glider #DIY #EAA #Epoxy #Chemistry #Temperature #Garolite

The white fuselage tail boom has an incandescent lamp (in a reflective metal housing) sitting over the main battery box (not seen). Some towels are wrapped around the edge of the lamp housing to retain warm air in the battery box. In the background is a cluttered shop floor.

We are looking into the main battery box. A red plastic 'donut' is one of the main battery terminals. The interior of the battery box is mostly carbon fiber, which is black. The top of the batteries is black anodized aluminum. One end of a yellow battery clamping bar is visible as it fits under an inverted shelf of carbon fiber. On each side of the clamping bar are blocks of G-10 Garolite, which are epoxied to the inverted shelf. These blocks prevent the clamping block from shifting to either side.

My son loves #printablok and keeps inventing new models, so I'm given a list of parts to print, sometimes with colour requests too.
Printablok has done a lot to make me a better 3d printer, namely it has small bottom surface, a ton of detail so takes a lot of time, and makes you want to print said detail. It's with printabloks I started routinely use wider than the nozzle line widths, started printing #PETG, using painter's tape and so on. This one is printed on #garolite though.
#3dPrinting

A model of some so with six wings and two weapons, constructed from 3d printed blocks called printablok, in four different colours, on tiled floor.

The same model in detect sun and on my hand for scale (it's about 20cm big).

My server was showing me "Load more" yesterday, without loading more, so I get most people have missed this. Or are really not interested in more troubleless bed surfaces for PETG 😉
Finished printing parts for this #printablok finally, only purple ones and all the connectors are PETG, other parts are PLA. #3dPrinting #garolite

A multicoloured assembled 3d print of something my kid considers a space ship with weapons (those are antennas but I'm not arguing).

So I've tried a thing called FR4, which is some variation of G10, a circuit board material. I've ordered a thin sheet, used a spare bed magnet to glue to it, and have been testing it with PETG.
I was unimpressed at reasonable 70 and 80 degrees temp, but 85 works a treat! If you know #printablok, these are tiny and fiddly, especially connectors on the 1st.
Keep in mind that I have 2 magnets between the heater and FR4, so need more temp to hold the prints. #3dPrinting #garolite

A FR4 buildplate held vertically in my hand, with purple H shaped models, pretty tiny ones, stubbornly holding on while sliding off.

Two purple printabloks on a FR4 buildplate, horizontally this time.

Had such a bad time trying to get my #Ender3v2 #3Dprinter to get a good first layer down, but I finally managed it through sheer #persistance (and a lot of cussing). Using #G10 (#garolite) on the bed which works really well when the settings are right.

#Garolite

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