Lmst

For a little bit now I've been wearing the Cinnamon Linen Jacket I made indoors because it's been quite cold and I figured I should probably wear it instead of just having it gather dust... And oh. Oh. I might be a convert to jackets indoors, at least if they're linen lined with linen and allow for a great range of movement, this thing is so fucking comfortable. And cute! Karvinen doing self-serve uppies for illustration.

#HistoryBounding #HistoricalFashion

Okay everyone: Tea Gown! I may need to make some small adjustments to the tie but overall I am happy with it! I fully expected to hate it cause this is like couch fabric I got a bunch of cheap at the thrift store but the sheet I used for the liner actually makes it kinda cute. #sewing #teagown #victorian #historybounding

A person wearing a floral-patterned robe stands on a wooden deck. Their face is obscured by a fox emoji. The background features greenery and wooden furniture.

A person stands in a garden, wearing a floral-patterned robe with wide sleeves. Their head is replaced with a cartoon fox emoji. Behind them is a green bush and a fence. The ground is covered with grass and fallen leaves.

A person is standing in front of a fence, wearing a floral robe over a white dress. Their face is obscured by a fox emoji mask, and they are surrounded by greenery and outdoor scenery.

A person with long, wavy hair is standing with their back to the camera, wearing a long floral dress featuring various colors of flowers. They are positioned in a green outdoor area, surrounded by shrubs and a fence.

The 1890s are whispering sweet nothings to me again... Shuffled my folders of patterns a bit and was intrigued by a set of drafted patterns marked only "Experimental Giganto-Sleeve" with no further explanations.

I wish I had any use for anything with a very large sleeve, currently. I'm full up on coats and jackets and want my shirts with slightly smaller sleeves, ones that fit under coats. Oh, practicality! :blob_melt_sob:

#HistoricalFashion #HistoryBounding #Sewing

Today I was also the #OutsideGirl, purchasing some fabrics and bedding. There were rather large mushrooms on the birches!

#HistoryBounding

Sini, clad in an interesting ensemble, standing outside on some paved slabs and pointing a gloved finger at some vibrantly yellow shelf mushrooms right on the bottom trunk of a significantly thick birch tree. She's wearing a whimsically curly reddish wig, glasses, a white face mask, little black and autumn tones neck scarf, a black linen Victorian style riding jacket tailored to within an inch of its life, and a very full gray and blue tones circle skirt, rippling around her in a nice wide conical shape. She looks a bit stern, but that's just her face, she's really quite enjoying the mushrooms, the copse of birch trees in the urban planting, and the ground being covered in autumn yellow birch leaves.

Making eyelets on a history inspired everyday dress. The fabric, for those who weren't around then, is a typical hand woven Indian cotton used for table cloths, bedspreads etc in the 1970s and early 80s. Like the vintage pre-waxed linen thread I am using it is thrifted.
#reuse #historybounding #handsewing

An awl is sticking out from a newly made hole in a bodice made from a green, striped, coarse fabric. Above it are several round holes stitched with buttonhole stitch. It is resting on a knee wearing a red dress.

It is I, and I have been the birthday girl!
Dressed up a tiny bit and Mum was kind enough to take several photos, so now I have new portraits of myself also. I edited them pretty hastily, but it'll do!

#HistoryBounding #HistoricalFashion

A nice slightly more casual photo of Sini, for a given amount of casual, where she is standing in front of a window and has one hand resting on the neck of a ginger tabby cat sitting on the window sill. She's looking towards the lens with a neutral but positive expression. She is dressed in a ginger wig with bangs, nicely gathered into an artistically messy bun, a white linen blouse with lace details and its sleeved rolled up onto the elbows, a black corset style belt, and a tan skirt. On one side of the image there is a bit of dark green linen curtain, and the rest is just bathed in light from the window, hitting a sheer curtain. She has one hand on her waist, strangely bent, but in a style pretty common for her, in a sort of no-nonsense but also overly flexible joints way, and she looks decidedly over thirty in a natural way. The cat is beautifully lit but uninterested in the proceedings.

A more posed, restrained and old fashioned style portrait of Sini, as she is standing in front of the dark green curtain and sideways light alights upon her from the window. She is wearing the same ensemble but has her hands loosely clasped in front of her, below the waist belt, and her long necklace made out of old silver spoons and an amber stone drapes from her neck. She has a neutral, if not even stern expression, the sweep of her bangs, the slightly rumpled sleeves and the gentle waves of all the textiles lending some softness to the image. It's a nice portrait, well done Mum!

Decided to forgo the handstitching flat felled seams for my late 19th / early 20th century drawers and instead topstitch by machine. I wouldn't know, but I sincerely suspect that the historical ladies might have done the same occasionally, when in hurry. Also, it is not like anybody will notice that, if someone would have their head between my legs to criticize my seam choices... they really need to rethink their life choices. #HistoryBounding #HistoricalSewing #sewing

Join me in the brief joy of having an entirely fresh set of clothes, before both cats and life happen to them. These are of course fully just what I wear because I'm like that and it gives me joy, skirt I made a decade ago and shirt last year! Vaguely Edwardian.

#HistoryBounding

Finished blousewaist! Took the photos yesterday so apparently they're a bit blurry! Anyway. Turned out nice, the fabric is a lovely linen mix twill and so soft. The sleeves are full length for a change so I hope it will be nice and warm in the winter and reasonable in Spring and Autumn!

#Sewing #HistoryBounding #Edwardian

A detail view of the underarm and sleeve of a cream white Edwardian style bodice, shirt or waist. There's pretty lace running across the side and front, and the plain but very gathered at the top sleeve has its one sleeve in the front scoop of the arm's eye, not aligned with the side seam. This is either the Edwardian way of doing it, or a misunderstanding on Sini's part but something she really likes in practice. It's mostly hidden by the fall of the arm when worn, but gives better mobility.

Top down view of the entire waist. It has a rounded standing collar with topstitching along the edges, tall cuffs with the same, and an equally tall waistband onto which the rest of the bodice is gathered. It has plenty of lace on it in general, but the cut and style is also distinctly of the pigeon breast mode, with full sleeve heads and loose sleeves. There's ten tiny shell buttons down the front, in pairs, for decoration and utility. The fabric looks heavy, soft and dense. It's laid out on a drying rack for clothes, flat, but as if it's on a jaunty ghost. There's some quilt and an air purifier just in the background.

Very close up of the sleeve cuffs, with two tiny buttons sewn on with thick white linen thread. It is not the neatest cuff ever made, but looking lovely and sturdy. The buttons have small defects as they're natural materials, but they're very shiny and not plastic! There's one single black cat hair just on one, hanging out. The topstitching is a bit wobbly, as the fabric is buttery soft and the sleeve vent and cuff edge has about a million layers to sew through, as is usual.

Waistband on! And here's the bit where I couldn't cut it all in one and had to piece it together, as I had very little fabric to work with. Pretty subtle and not very offensive at all, as piecing goes. The inside I've just whipstitched on with fine linen thread, the ends I turned and did by hand from the right side also.

#Sewing #HistoryBounding

A close up photo of the tall waistband of a cream twill blouse that has been gathered to it. There's small fairly even gathers between sections of applied lace, and there's no visible stitching on the folded over waistband, no topstitching or raw edges or seam finishes. There's a piecing seam on the left, where the waistband wasn't quite long enough and was constructed of two pieces. At a glance you might not even notice it, and while noticeable in both a visual and tactile sense, it's pretty subtle and neat. The front edge of the waistband is very neat and square with a crisp corner, as it's been hand turned. The fabric is sort of luxuriously dense but soft.

Continuing the white linen walking skirt. Evened the hem and tried it on to see if it's even... It is! Now with little dance.
Also oh my gods the illusion of the black decorative strip on the hem, really being the longer skirt I was just wearing under? Ah, might have to see about making that some day... 😂

#Sewing #HistoryBounding

Yesterday's sewing. Completed the front section with button placket and such, though no buttons yet. The placket has more of the lace on it for fanciness, the underpart does not, the collar seam allowance I've whipstitched on at the back, awaiting such a time I feel like topstitching decoratively around it.

#Sewing #HistoryBounding

The front sections and standing collar of a cream white linen mix blouse. There's decorative lines of applied insertion lace, making the whole look rather fancy and nice. There's a robust button placket with more lace on it, and the standing collar has a curve instead of an angle at the front. Currently missing sleeves and waistband. The back piece has been sewn onto the shoulder with tiny flat felled seams.

Lace detail at the front. There's a pencil line still on the fabric of where another line was imagined and then discarded. There's a fun overlap of the different layers of pieces and lace, sewn on in a particular order to make up the garment. The lace isn't entirely symmetrical, one side having slightly more scallop about its edge, but this is only noticeably this close up. There's a line of topstitching in the middle of the placket, over the lace, to both help keep it further in place but also to denote buttonhole position.

The other placket, sans lace but with similar topstitching, around both edges and right in the middle. The collar has been sewn on normally on the right side, enclosing the seam, but the stitches holding the under of it in place on the inside is pretty much invisible. The collar being not supported or stiffened in any way lets it warp a little bit on the inside, the outside is smooth.

Planning and measuring, not today. Just slap some lace on it, it's fine!

Also I am once again running out of basting thread, there's 200m on the spool and this happens way more often than I'd think.

#Sewing #HistoryBounding

Two lower front parts of a cream blouse in progress, with ivory insertion lace pinned and hand tacked on it. There's a general disarray of other pattern pieces, scissors, pencil, ruler and such in frame, and pretty daylight from a window. The lace strips have been eyeballed into position, in vertical lines along the centre front and radiating out. Sini's hand for scale and colour matching, the fabric looking a bit more white than it actually is.

Have been leisurely working on this white linen walking skirt, circa 1900-1905. It's just a single layer of this thin and crisp linen, with machine flat felled seams, fairly narrow hips and an outward flare and sweep at the back. It's my usual construction, with a narrow placket, hooks and eyes and hooks and bars making it adjustable between corseted and not. Doesn't look like much now, hung to stretch out before I even the hem!

#Sewing #HistoricalFashion #HistoryBounding

Close up photo of the back closure, a placket, on the centre back of a white linen skirt. Silver hooks and eyes have been sewn between the layers of the placket, only the active bits of the hardware visible, as well as some sewing thread affixing the hooks through all layers, quite subtle. There's a narrow waistband with three thread bars sewn at slightly different distances, one at exactly centre back, and two more one centimetre away from it, allowing for tighter and looser fit. Sini's hand holds onto the waistband. The linen is not infinitely fine, but nice looking and with some structure despite being wrinkly as heck.

A flat felled seam, with Sini's pink hand for scale. It has a touch of machine precision about it, the seam. Despite going on the bias on linen which is notoriously wibbly, it's very exactly top stitched, flat and nice. It's also quite narrow, only 9mm wide, and looks pretty lovely and neat in the crisp white fabric.

A slightly sad looking full garment image, with the skirt on a skirt hanger which is on a door. It's very narrow at the waist and significantly flares out at about mid hip, going to a sort of trumpet shape but with straight seams. It's quite wrinkled, the flat felled seams lend a tiny bit of practical mood to it, and the hem is entirely unfinished with threads coming off the weave at the raw edge. It needs to hand out like this for several days, for the fabric to let itself relax and settle to how it will want to, with gravity.

Got on a whim 2,5 metres of some kind of mistery wool fabric on sale. Last piece, incredibly soft and pleasant to touch. Medium weight I think. Gray with thin, almost invisible pinstripe. 1,54 wide.
I could make an interlined Victorian walking skirt... I wonder what other options I have?
#HistoricalSewing #HistoryBounding

Thoughts about Victorian and Edwardian fashions vis a vis the summer heat:

It's rather hot now in Finland, compared to how Finland usually is. Our buildings are also made to retain heat and only rich people and municipal buildings tend to have AC, so let's just say that it's warm. Anyway.
Because I'm the way I am I usually wear at least the layers of chemise, drawers, petticoat or two, skirt and blouse or shirt. Just in general, I enjoy it, even when it's been a round 25 Celsius inside.

#HistoricalFashion #HistoryBounding #Victorian

#HistoryBounding

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