From the Turkish border town of Hopa, I caught a bus to Erzurum, away from the Black Sea and up onto the Anatolian Plateau. The route followed the Çoruh River, which was Turkey’s last wild river, until they built a series of enormous reservoirs (photo 1). Erzurum is known for horizontal kebabs (cağ) and historical madrasas and mosques (2 and 3).
I then rode the sleeper train to Ankara, the Doğu Express, which briefly follows the Euphrates River, and crosses much of Anatolia. It is more popular in the magical snowy winter, but it was still pretty in late summer (4). I shared my compartment with a friendly computer programmer, who told me I’d missed the best part of the route, his home city of Kars. He said programming was ruining his health, and he was going back to the family business of cheesemaking.
The main sight in Ankara is Anıtkabir, Atatürk’s mausoleum (5 and 6). It’s a beautiful building of crisp travertine blocks, but also a sombre place to think about nations. From the capital, high speed trains glide off the plateau, past Sapanca Lake, and into Istanbul.
I used a ferry to cross the Bosphorus (7). I’d crossed all of Asia, and now only had to cross little Europe in order to get home.
#Overland #TravelByTrain