#ANTENNAS

2025-06-20

An improved tank circuit EFHW coupler

About a month ago Ham Radio Outside the Box posted about “a third way” to match the high impedance at the feedpoint of an End-Fed Half-Wave antenna. A link to the original article is at the bottom of this post. A “30-minute special” was built to prove the concept actually works. It did work fine business (as we say on-air), but that initial implementation had a serious limitation – it was limited to a single band due to the use of a fixed capacitance (a trimmed short length of coax). How could we adapt the basic design to cover multiple bands? Read on to hear about a new improved EFHW coupler that does indeed cover multiple bands.

A QRO(p) coupler

Searching through the vaults containing a vast reserve of assorted electronic components at Ham Radio Outside the Box laboratories (my basement) I unearthed an air-spaced variable capacitor. These now rare items were common in the days of TRF (Tuned Radio Frequency) receivers. For a long time now Superheterodyne circuits have seen the gradual demise of air-spaced variable capacitors.

What’s behind the big knob?

When you look a radio in the face you will usually see that one of the knobs is larger than the rest. That would be what we used to call the “Tuning” knob; nowadays it is more likely to be labeled “VFO”. That would be our first clue as to whether the component behind the front panel is an air-spaced variable capacitor or one of those new-fangled devices called a “Rotary Encoder”. If you turn the knob until you hit an end stop it is a variable capacitor; if it turns freely it is a rotary encoder. For somebody like myself who first gained an interest in radio when capacitors were called “condensers” that is important and useful when deciding whether to purchase an old radio at a yard sale with a view to scavenging its parts.

The component I found in the underground vaults is an even rarer device – it has a slow-motion gear drive. That is a valuable feature when tuning a high-Q tank circuit. I re-used the T200-2 powdered iron core and coil windings from the original single-band coupler. Consumer grade AM radio sets often used a thin cord stretched around an elaborate system of pulleys to achieve the same fine adjustment in tuning, but a mechanical gear system is more robust and reliable.

The capacitance range of the “tuning condenser” was measured using my “Almost All Digital Electronics L/C Meter IIB” and those values, along with the fixed value of the toroidal inductor, were plugged into a LibreOffice spreadsheet to find the range of resonant frequencies available with this coupler. My target was 20m, 30m and 40m – the bands I use most frequently. Good luck struck again, my junque box variable capacitor was able to cover those three bands so I got to work building the new coupler.

Construction

There are only two main components – an inductor and a variable capacitor so putting the coupler together didn’t take very long. For expedience I re-used an old Hammond aluminum enclosure from a long forgotten project. I would have preferred a plastic enclosure but I didn’t have a suitable plastic box available. Now that the device has been proven to work I plan to purchase a domestic electrical box from the hardware store. Hammond aluminum project boxes are sturdy and well made, but they have what I perceive to be a design flaw – sloping walls – which makes them unsuitable for projects like this one. Another consideration is that the kind of variable capacitor employed in this project should be electrically isolated from its enclosure because the body of the capacitor is connected to its static plates. We want to prevent stray capacitance or unwanted conductive paths.

This project was built for my “QROp” rig which is a Yaesu FT-891 capable of 100 watts but which I rarely use above 20 watts. I have even used it as a QRP rig by dialing the HF Power setting down to 5 watts. The disadvantage of operating the FT-891 as a QRP rig is the high current consumption. There is very little practical difference in signal strength between 5 watts and 20 watts, but 20 watts might just edge my signal above the noise during poor band conditions. So I am now working on a QRP version.

Working QRP usually involves lightweight station equipment although that isn’t always the case – refer to my post: “My radio is tiny. So why is my POTA backpack so heavy?“. No matter how small your transceiver is, all the ancillary equipment (like a chair, drinking water etc) adds weight to your pack. Lightweight radio gear doesn’t really allow use of heavy variable capacitors. A QRP version of this coupler will replace the heavy, bulky, air-spaced variable capacitor with polyvaricons which are very small and very lightweight.

Incidentally, why are these miniature variable capacitors called “polyvaricons”? Is the name a contraction of “polymer variable condenser“? Condenser? Surely that should be “polyvaricaps”. Now this old codger feels at home!

Polyvaricons scavenged from secondhand AM/FM radios

Tip: Polyvaricons are available from various QRP parts suppliers but there is another source that is very convenient and cheaper. I went to a local charity shop recently and bought a couple of budget AM/FM radios for pocket change. The checkout clerk told me I had 7 days to check that the radios actually work and I could return them if they didn’t.

I replied that I guarantee they won’t work in about an hour from now as I am going to tear them apart to use their components!

Polyvaricons usually have several sets of plates some of which are high capacitance and some are low capacitance. To make fine adjustments of the capacitance in a QRP version of this project I plan to exploit this feature. Combined with replacing a bulky SO-239 with BNC connectors, all in a small lightweight plastic project box should reduce the size and weight and make a QRP version suitable for backpacking.

Why not use an L-match?

I believe an L-match, discussed in previous posts, is a more efficient coupler for End-Fed Half-Wave antennas. Unlike the tuned tank circuit design, an L-match does not involve the use of a transformer which introduces potential losses. So why have I gone ahead with a tuned tank circuit coupler instead?

I have corresponded with readers who use L-matches as couplers for EFHW antennas. One thing stands out about L-match couplers – each band requires a separate coupler with a fixed capacitance and fixed inductance. This is not conducive to rapid band changes in the field. An alternative is an L-match tuner employing a variable capacitor and variable inductor. I have built one of these but I am of the opinion that this introduces potential losses due to the switched inductance. Even a variable capacitance introduces the potential for losses because of the way contact is made with the moving vanes.

There is a way to configure variable capacitors to overcome this problem. Builders of small magnetic loops often employ it because even a tiny ohmic resistance can impact loop efficiency. In regard to inductance changes, perhaps plug-in inductors could be used just like in the old days when capacitors were condensers.

This whole series of posts here on Ham Radio Outside the Box documents the pursuit of a highly efficient replacement for the broadband impedance transformer commonly used with EFHW antennas. What is your opinion? I invite your comments on this topic.

Re-read the original post:

https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/05/14/matching-an-efhw-antenna-a-third-way/

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.


This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #OutdoorOps #POTA

2025-06-19

Antennas haven't worked for me since the last sharkey update. Is it just my account, or is everyone else on sharkey.world affected too? Tried to make a new antenna and updayr old ones. There's only some random single updates on some antennas and none on for example linux hashtag.. #antennas #sharkeyworld @ruud

2025-06-15

@N4JAW Nice write up and build! Hope you make many successful contacts with it!

Captured a listing of field antennas on my qsl site, but still working at setting up and testing many of them. Will be busy with this for awhile… #HamRadio #Antennas

qsl.net/n8dmt/amateur-radio/mu

2025-06-15

OK, new-to-me, handmade by N4HER 6m aluminum dipole is up in experimental location (attic 🤦). SWR is 1.4.

CQ is running on FT8...hoping for my first magic band contacts on dad day!

This was an unplanned antenna purchase, so I need to research how to attach this thing to a mast and how to attach mast to house.

#6m #6meters #FT8 #MagicBand #fathersday2025 #NewHam #NewHams #N4HER #antennas

2025-06-09

Learned about the defunct Monitoring Times magazine recently. I really like Publisher Bob Grove’s All About Antennas collection. Lots of practical and specific advice useful for new hams. Like this, about operating inside and losses due to particular sources and materials. monitoringtimes.com/antennaboo

#antennas #NewHams #W8JHD

A graphic shows shorter wavelength signal penetrating a window pane better. Transcription follows. The higher the frequency, the shorter the wavelength and the easier it is for a signal to get through an opening in an absorptive or reflective enclosure.
Nearby trees, buildings and hills take their toll, too. Locating an antenna inside a large building with steel frame and metal reinforcements may attenuate signals up to 25 dB at VHF and UHF, according to one study. Brick walls, slate or tile roofs can account for 6 dB, even more when wet. Shorter wavelengths
900 MHz) get through small windows in shielded walls where longer wavelengths (150 MHz) do not.
2025-06-05

Successful update to indoor F-Loop 3 antenna changes from RG-400 loop to a 1” solid aluminum tube with a 7” feed loop. The CHA F-Loop 3 Plus antenna covers 40-10 meters. Manufacturer’s data says antenna efficiency changed from ~88% to ~96% on 10m by changing from RG-400 coax to slightly larger diameter loop and beefier 1” solid tubing. #HamRadio #MagneticLoop #Antennas

Photo of original loop antenna setup (CHA F-Loop 3 Basic) and indoor location.Photo of updated loop antenna setup (CHA F-Loop 3 Plus) in same indoor location.Photo of left lower loop mounting point on the CHA F-Loop 3 tuning boxPhoto of the top loop connection (wing nut and screw) with thin plastic insulator separating the main loop from the feed loop.
2025-06-04

Shark’s Teeth and Canadian Jam – a tall story

I recently purchased a Spiderbeam mast from a vendor in the United States. The list price was US$78 – a great price for a high quality product. But the story didn’t end there – not by a long shot. The cost for shipping via courier was an additional US$44. I expected there would be more to pay once the product crossed the border into Canada and that expectation couldn’t be more true. There was plenty more to pay! I received an email from the courier telling me I owed them a further CDN$90 and that to expedite delivery would I like to send them the loot in advance. I paid the ransom and received another email saying thanks for the cash, now your delivery is going to be delayed by three days!

I began to feel that I was being treated like a sucker; I was charged brokerage fees, handling fees, processing fees and, of course, taxes owed to the Canadian government. Then along came the credit card bill from the bank advising me of their extortionate exchange rate to convert US dollars into Canadian dollars. In the end my US$78 mast cost well over CDN$250! I am going to take very good care of this most precious piece of ham radio gear.

What did I buy with that small fortune?

I chose the Spiderbeam 7m (23ft) mast, primarily because it collapses down to a very manageable 28 inches and, although heavier than most, is still light enough to backpack into a field operating location. Is 7m tall enough? Well I thought about that for a while and decided it would be quite sufficient for my needs. Spiderbeam masts are built from heavier gauge fiberglass tubing than other similar products. Many telescoping fiberglass poles – especially those intended for fishing – are very flexible. When deployed for ham radio purposes they tend to bend which reduces their effective height. Spiderbeam masts remain fairly straight – a 7m mast supports a wire at 7m; it doesn’t bow down under the weight of the wire.

Crash prevention

Many years ago I invested in an MFJ 31ft telescoping fiberglass pole. One day, while testing an antenna in my yard, a gust of wind blew the mast over. It crashed against the wall of my house destroying several sections near the top of the mast. Fortunately I was able to restore it to a shortened length of 29ft by replacing the broken sections with those scavenged from a Crappie fishing pole. It has served me well since but it is heavy and collapses to a length of around four feet.

Everything packs into a camping chair bag

My new Spiderbeam mast is going to be very well protected – it cost far too much to replace if it became damaged. So here is a short account of what I have done to protect it during transit and while in use out in the Big Blue Sky Shack.

First, in transit, I pack it inside a length of 2-inch (50mm) PVC plumbing pipe. That all goes inside an expanding document tube which, in turn, goes inside a carry bag previously used for a camping chair. The bag is also used for packing tent pegs and guy lines.

What is the plumbing pipe for?

Well I guess I could just set the Spiderbeam mast down on the ground and guy it in place. However, by slipping it inside the plumbing pipe it can be easily removed for adjusting the antenna wire when needed.

Shark’s teeth?

“Shark’s teeth” cut into support tube to prevent the base from slipping

Experience has taught that tall masts have a tendency to slip at the bottom. It is simple physics; 23 feet of mast supported 2 feet from the base provides enough leverage to topple the mast in windy conditions, or when a long wire under tension is attached at the top.

In the past I have dug a small divot to hold the base in place – effective but with a tendency to generate disapproval from park wardens. Now, to protect my precious Spiderbeam from catastrophic collapse I cut a set of “shark’s teeth” at the base of the support tube. It works and, if I ever encounter a growling bear on the trail, I can show it my shark’s teeth to intimidate it into retreat.

Guy lines secured to support tube using Canadian Jam Knots

The top of the support tube has a small section of enhanced diameter created by slipping several strong rubber bands covered in electrical tape. It’s purpose is to prevent the guy lines from slipping – simple and effective. The guy lines made from 550 paracord are secured using Canadian Jam knots. I have no idea why Canada is credited with this particular style of knot, but it is a very secure way of tightening a guy line around the support tube. Canadian Jam knots are also very easy to release when it is time to pack up the station.

Modified Taut Line Hitch – sliding knot to tighten guy lines Super light aluminum pegs hold the guy lines to the ground

At the other end of the guy line I use modified taut line hitches to create an adjustable loop around lightweight “aircraft grade” aluminum tent pegs. The modified taut line hitch involves a couple of extra wraps of cord to make it more secure. I have found standard taut line hitches tend to loosen a little when tied on paracord.

Finally, at the top of the pole, I attached a small loop of very thin, but strong, cord. I took a few inches of cord, formed a loop and tied a simple knot at the end. The knot was fat enough to fit tightly in the top, hollow section of the Spiderbeam mast. It was secured with hot melt glue and is very secure. I don’t think it could be dislodged even if I wanted to remove it.

The loop can be wrapped around an antenna wire, then slipped over the top of the mast as seen in the picture. To remove the wire I simply lift the wire above the top section of mast to release it quickly and easily.

Cord loop at top of Spiderbeam pole for holding antenna wire

So far, all is well. The small fortune I have invested from my meager retirement savings into this excellent Spiderbeam mast is going to be very well protected!

Releasing the antenna wire is easy – simply lift the wire to the top of the pole and the cord loop releases

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.


This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #OutdoorOps #Portable #Spiderbeam

K0̷IN Fr. Martyk0in@mastodon.radio
2025-06-03

@DcnPat I've got some 4-gague solid copper wire on order, and I'm going to try to fabricate something like the Squalo you mentioned with it. #Antennas #6meters #HamRadio

2025-06-03

To follow / exclude keywords in Calckey/Firefish, you set up:
#Antennas :ablobcatrainbow:

2025-05-28

Testing and modifying the “POTA PERformer” antenna

What is the POTA PERformer? Greg Mihran KJ6ER has introduced us to an antenna that he calls the “POTA PERformer”. The capitalized PER in its name is an abbreviation for “Portable, Elevated, Resonant”. But what is it really? The POTA PERformer is an adjustable elevated vertical radiating whip with two adjustable elevated radials. In concept there is nothing really new about it, but the unique implementation devised by KJ6ER is quite interesting.

Get up off the ground

Tripod mounted whip at Ham Radio Outside the Box

Most hams will be aware that a quarter wave vertical antenna, mounted on the ground, requires an extensive system of radials to be efficient. I have successfully used such an arrangement with as little as four radials during a POTA activation out in the Big Blue Sky Shack. But, as they say, even a poor antenna will get you contacts when conditions are right. Some recommend as many as 120 radials although anything over 16 provides very little further improvement. In a portable situation laying out a lot of radials for a short-term temporary station doesn’t make a lot of sense. So what is the alternative?

Less is more

If the base of the antenna is raised above the ground, fewer radials are needed to form an effective counterpoise and make the antenna efficient. How many? KJ6ER has settled on two radials for the POTA PERformer. If the radials are arranged at 90 degrees to each other the antenna has a directional radiating pattern. But using two radials increases the footprint on the ground and that could be an important consideration if, for example, we are operating on a narrow trail. Could we get away with just one radial? I modeled a POTA PERformer using EZNEC and came up with a comparison, shown in the following table.

TABLE: 1 radial versus 2 radials

Now I’ll admit that I am no expert in computer modeling, but the results I obtained seem to differ from what KJ6ER found. In either case, whether two radials or just a single radial are used, we have a directional antenna that can be rapidly deployed in the field.

One radial or two? Now here’s a surprise!

The original POTA PERformer is a multiband antenna. It covers all the bands from 20m up to 6m with a 17ft telescopic stainless steel whip and adjustable length radials. KJ6ER suggests extending the band coverage to 30m and 40m by means of a loading coil at the base of the whip and then … surprise … combining the two radials to create one long radial wire. I suspect the 30m/40m version may lack some of the gain and efficiency of the higher band version due to the losses involved in base loading a vertical radiator. Perhaps a full length vertical wire supported by a pole, or a tree, might be better.

I have always felt there is something incongruous about using a counterpoise that is longer than the radiator. Perhaps that concern is unfounded if we consider that a raised radial wire also radiates.

Customizing the original clever idea

I have tried the POTA PERformer with both a single radial and two radials. Both versions “worked” and I made contacts. It is difficult to interpret which was better, but my own preference – for field expediency – is a single radial. The 20m, 30m and 40m bands are my preferred haunts, only for the reason that two of my QRP radios do not support the higher bands. Even though the POTA PERformer is a great idea with very positive reports from several sources on YouTube and elsewhere, it doesn’t fit well with how I like to operate. Here is why.

Please remain seated

A raised radial wire is a tuned counterpoise. Its length is important. That means band changes involve adjusting the length of the radial(s). One way of doing this is to insert a non-conducting link in the wire and move it between linked sections to set the conducting part of the counterpoise to the correct length for the band of operation. The overall length remains the same but the sections of the wire not being used are isolated from the rest of the antenna. Another way that I have tried is to use a metal measuring tape and unwind it to the correct length. Perhaps using multiple raised radials where each wire is adjusted for a different band would also work. Whatever method is used, getting out of your chair and fiddling with radials and whip lengths is a time consuming distraction. So what’s the alternative; how can you stay in your seat and change bands?

Get on the ground and spread ’em!

Sacrificing a little efficiency is required but it can be done. My own method is to spread out four radials wires in a fan pattern on the ground, facing the direction I want my signal to go. Are four ground radials enough? If the vertical element is ground-mounted then using only four radials results in efficiency loss. But, if the whip is elevated? Who knows, but it works.

Since ground radials are detuned their length is not critical. No adjustment is required whether operating on 20m, 30m or 40m. The only requirement is that there is sufficient copper on the ground to provide a good counterpoise; I use 4x13ft radials. Orienting all the radials in one particular direction does improve the signal in that direction to a small extent. How much efficiency is lost? That is very hard to quantify but the convenience factor is high.

A 17ft whip with an adjustable loading coil (bypassed for 20m) will cover all three of the bands that I need. I have also used a 9ft “tactical” whip whose fixed length sections are held together with bungee cord. This shorter whip uses a separate loading coil for each band and is usually only employed with my QROp rig (a 100 watt radio that is usually set to 20 watts or less). This radio gives the ability to transmit a little more power when needed.

“QRP when possible, QROp when needed”Ham Radio Outside the Box

Is there any real difference between 5 watts and 20 watts? Maybe not but it does give me a nice warm feeling – especially if I get too close to the antenna while keying up.

To better understand and learn more about the POTA PERformer it is worthwhile downloading and reading Greg KJ6ER’s PDF document. It may inspire you to build one or even devise your own variant to suit your unique operating needs.

Note to Fediverse readers: the formatting of this post may be presented better on the original WordPress site. Visit: https://hamradiooutsidethebox.ca/2025/05/27/testing-the-pota-performer-antenna/

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.


This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable #POTA

2025-05-27

Modeled two versions of a 1m diameter loop antenna 1m above perfect (PEC) ground using AN-SOF to see how varying the loop feed point changes the far-field pattern. Surprising that loop top vs. bottom feed makes such a pattern difference! More to learn…
#HamRadio #LoopAntenna #Antennas #PerfectGround

Simulation model showing loop top feed (yellow dot).Far field pattern with top feed shows marked pattern difference with more side to side than straight up...Simulation model showing loop bottom feed (yellow dot).Far field pattern with bottom feed shows similar to horizontal dipole (half-donut) pattern.
2025-05-25

Finally got the $10 ten-meter dipole out of the attic and into the air. I feel like a real ham now lol.

Interesting that I don't immediately notice a strong directionality difference in my FT8 contacts, though the antenna is nearly perpendicular to the attic direction and the 'inverted v angle' [what's that called?] of the radiators has been small in both instances.

#10meters #FT8 #dipole #antennas #HamRadio

The back yard of a house, with a wire dipole antenna suspended from a the roof's exhaust chimney and a coaxial cable dropping to the ground.
2025-05-23

@ai6yr Should be able to easily find similar on e-site and just copy/fudge dimensions to get started. Busy here too, but will add this to my “fun things to do when free” list. Might be a future ARRL Field Day operating category? Trash cans <> VHF or bed springs (bikes or autos) <> HF? 2X multiplier for unconventional antenna with pictures submitted for setup. #HamRadio #Antennas

2025-05-23

@ai6yr Any idea of the dimensions of the metal parts of these cans? Might be fun to fire up the antenna simulation tools and see where they resonate. May yield a rough formula after a couple of iterations in L, H, or W.
#HamRadio #Antennas

2025-05-21

Reviving a Webster Band Spanner – a 1950s manual screwdriver antenna

About 20 years ago I was approached by a neighbor who, knowing that I am a ham, asked if I might be interested in looking at some of the old ham junque he had accumulated over many years. He was a fine gentleman, in his golden years, who was no longer active in the hobby. Hesitating for less than a microsecond I eagerly agreed. Among the treasures I acquired was a Signal Electric straight key. I believe it was an R48 model first introduced in 1920 when it sold for $2.80. But my prized acquisition was a Webster Band Spanner antenna.

The Band Spanner was produced in the 1950s and 1960s by the Webster company in San Francisco. It is a center-loaded manual screwdriver antenna intended for mobile operation. Unlike modern screwdriver antennas, like the popular Tarheels, that use an electric motor to make band changes, the Band Spanner has to be manually adjusted for each band by sliding the whip up and down.

Two models were produced; the A-61 and the A-62. The A-61 (that I acquired) has an extended length of 93 inches and a collapsed length of 60 inches. The longer A-62 model has an extended length of 117 inches and a collapsed length of 63 inches. Both models support the 75-40-20-15 and 10 meter bands. There is a mark on the whip indicating the mid-point of each band. I suspect the WARC bands could also be tuned although it would be necessary to locate the correct whip length by trial and error. The antenna is rated for “100 watts or more”.

Whip connection contact Coil section (top), lower radiating section (bottom)

The Band Spanner is constructed from a fiberglass support column with a 24-inch long internal loading coil. At the base of the whip is a circular contactor that connects with the windings of the loading coil. As the whip is raised or lowered, the contactor connects to individual exposed turns of the loading coil inside the support column. This type of continuous adjustment permits exact resonance to be achieved anywhere within a band. It is a very high Q antenna – moving the whip just one click up or down (one turn of the loading coil) makes a significant difference to the tuning.

Would the vibration of a vehicle change the tuning?

Whip locking screw

You might expect that a bumper-mounted antenna would be subjected to a lot of stress as a vehicle crashed through pot-holes and other rough ground, but there is a very tight connection between the whip and the loading coil. The connection is so tight that it requires some force to adjust the whip length and it is quite possible to skip a turn if too much force is used. The tight connection has a another positive benefit – it makes the connection point self-cleaning. There is also a locking thumb screw at the base of the whip to help secure it in place.

Stationary mobile operation

Bumper mount

I am not a mobile HF operator; there are enough distractions already to compromise driving safety, so I prefer to use the Band Spanner as a stationary mobile antenna. For those who do intend to use it as a mobile antenna, there is the H-200 ball mount (shown in picture).

I have tried several ways of mounting the Band Spanner as a temporarily fixed position portable antenna. The manufacturer suggests using a matching section of 21 feet of RG-8/U coax and grounding the shield of the coax to the vehicle body. I did once try using such a matching section with a Band Spanner on a tripod, but it didn’t seem to improve the tuning at all. Most recently I attached my Band Spanner to my “QROp” (5-100 watts) radio set. It is a Yaesu FT-891 mounted inside a mil surplus 50-cal ammo box. The Band Spanner was connected directly to the rear of the rugged steel case. My ham-made L-match tuner was used for fine adjustment of the SWR.

Ammo can radio set with FT-891 transceiver; ham-made L-match; CWMorse extruded aluminum paddles; Bioenno 12Ah LiFePO4 battery in canvas pouch (left of picture) and Webster Band Spanner antenna attached at rear.

Tuning was fairly easy. I set the radio to 20m and 5 watts power output. I threw a 17ft wire counterpoise on the ground behind the radio. A single wire counterpoise is not really sufficient ground for this antenna so additional inductance had to be added via the L-match. I would usually lay out at least 4 radials for a portable vertical antenna, but I was on a mission. I wanted to find out if the Band Spanner could be employed as the radiating element of a “POTA PERformer” type of antenna. Ham Radio Outside the Box will be exploring the “POTA PERformer” in more detail in an upcoming post. For now we can describe it as simply a raised quarter wave whip with raised tuned radials.

Now comes the surprise

Having tuned the antenna with one ground radial to less than 1.5:1 SWR I thought I was on a roll. Next step, I raised the radial so that it would not be detuned by contact with the ground. I now had the Band Spanner set for the 20m band, finely adjusted by means of the L-match to give a good SWR. I expected some further adjustment might be necessary with a raised 17ft counterpoise, so imagine my dismay when the radio flashed its “high SWR” warning.

The Band Spanner is intended to be used while mounted to a couple of tons of steel vehicle serving as its counterpoise. It is a very short, loaded vertical antenna with very high Q performance. A lesson I learned early in my ham career, but overlooked in this exercise, was that a short-loaded, high Q vertical whip requires a carefully tuned counterpoise – or a good ground. Simply using a raised 17ft wire isn’t good enough. I would have had to precisely trim the raised radial wire to get a good SWR. To make this even more complicated, a precisely trimmed radial wire counterpoise for each band would be required. So the mission objective to examine the Band Spanner’s suitability as a portable POTA PERformer was concluded. In future, the Band Spanner will be used with the best ground system I can erect during a temporary field installation.

Another thought

A Band Spanner (or even better – a motorized screwdriver antenna) could possibly be used in an HOA situation. If it were ground mounted, with a good system of buried radials, it could potentially be disguised to prevent detection by the HOA hounds.

And finally …

I am not sure of the actual age of my Webster Band Spanner. They were produced in the 1950s and 1960s so I estimate it to be at least 60 and maybe as much as 75 years-old. The bumper mount has entirely lost its plating and is now a dull rust color. The fiberglass support column is equally dull and has lost its identifying markings. But, the antenna still functions as the Webster company intended all those years ago, which is more than can be said for its owner who is of the same vintage!

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.


This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #BandSpanner #Counterpoise #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable #POTA

2025-05-14

Matching an EFHW antenna – a third way

There is no doubt about the popularity of the End-Fed Half-Wave antenna. It is used by a very large number of hams, especially during portable operations like POTA, SOTA, WWFF etc. Why is it so popular? The principal reason seems to be ease of deployment. The EFHW requires only a single support and can even be used without any kind of transmission line – i.e. it can be directly connected to a radio without any coax, so zero transmission line losses!

clipart-library.com

But despite those advantages the EFHW has its critics. There are two principle objections: first the commonly used 49:1 impedance transformer, or UNUN if you prefer, is claimed to be inefficient.

Secondly, the antenna wire is only a half wavelength long on its design band. Although it can be used on its even harmonics the antenna becomes multiple half-wavelengths long. Of course, we know that the impedance of the wire is theoretically replicated every half-wavelength so that shouldn’t be a problem.

It is even possible to get a 1:1 SWR match on other bands by pressing “the magic (Tune) button”. That doesn’t make the antenna any better but it does convince the transceiver that it shouldn’t roll back the power, or even worse, throw an exothermic hissy fit.

The disadvantage of using an EFHW as a broadband antenna is that the radiation pattern may change with each band. It may even break up into multiple lobes, making getting contacts a hit-and-miss affair.

If you are standing on the top of a wind swept mountain with a storm approaching and you need to get your 4 contacts to qualify a SOTA activation, you may not be entirely engrossed in the finer points of antenna physics. I have been an EFHW user for many years and have thousands of QSOs in the log. For a long time I was blissfully unaware of what a terrible antenna I was using while I battled countless pile-ups and enjoyed the thrill of operating my radio out in the Big Blue Sky Shack.

Those were the days my friend

As I read more and more about the theory of the End-Fed Half-Wave antenna I would deploy mine and agonize about efficiency and radiation patterns while reminiscing about the days when ignorance was bliss and I just enjoyed my hobby.

Keep It Sweet and Simple – Use a dipole

Critics often argue that a simple dipole is a good replacement for the EFHW. After all, both antennas are a half wavelength long; the main difference is where they are fed. A center fed dipole has a nominal impedance of 70 ohms, not 50 ohms, so still not perfect. It is usually erected as a “flat-top” which requires three supports. No problem in a quiet corner of the forest where nature benevolently provides ample leafy poles, but in a public park where zealous guardians of arboreal sanctuary patrol the greenwoods you may indeed have a problem.

A dipole can be erected in other ways, for example as a sloper. Now only one support is required but another tiny problemette arises – the feedline has to be kept at 90 degrees to the radiating wire. In either deployment fashion a long feedline is required. Let’s say we are operating a flat-top dipole on 20m. The antenna should be a half wavelength above ground so we need three 33ft/10m supports and 33ft/10m of coax feedline. The center support pole could be omitted but the weight of 33ft of coax plus a 1:1 UNUN at the feedpoint will drag the feedpoint down.

The long and winding (coaxial) road

Unless the operator is sitting right beneath the feedpoint, even more coax is needed to reach the radio. Two issues here, the coax will incur some loss although it is often too small to be significant. Secondly, the SWR will be changed by the coax loss – perhaps for the better, but it may create the illusion of a better SWR than is actually occurring up on the antenna wire.

Don’t leave home without it

You could connect the dipole feedpoint directly to the radio and operate the antenna in a “V” orientation. I did do exactly that during an emergency (I had inadvertently left my antenna at home) and successfully completed a POTA activation using a spare piece of wire. It must be realized that the feedpoint in such an arrangement is a high current point, and hence a point of maximum power radiation. Some of the radiated energy will be cooking the earthworms – and the operator!

Linked 20m, 30m, 40m EFHW arrangement

So back to the “horribly inefficient, avoid-at-all-costs, snake oil” End-Fed Half-Wave antenna. How can we overcome the problems exaggerated by its naysayers? First, make it a single band at a time antenna. What do I mean by that? Use a separate wire for each band? There is a very simple way to do that. I designed and built a 3-band EFHW for 20m, 30m and 40m. I started with a half wavelength of wire on the 20m band but added a 2mm banana connector at the end. I then attached an extension wire to make the the antenna a half wavelength on the 30m band – again with a 2mm banana connector at the end. Then another extension for the 40m band. Each section of wire is attached with a short piece of thin cord to allow the links to be adjusted for each band.

And now for something completely different

Now for the biggest objection to the EFHW – the matching device. Ham Radio Outside the Box has already discussed two different matching devices, the 49:1 impedance transformer and the L-network. Now we have a third competitor in the race to perfection – the tuned tank circuit. I have to credit two sources for the inspiration to try this method: Steve AA5TB and John M0UKD. Both these gentlemen have built what is essentially a parallel tuned circuit to match the very high impedance at the feedpoint of an End-Fed Half-Wave wire to the 50 ohms expected by a transceiver.

EFHW parallel tuned circuit matching device

Being an avid experimenter by nature I had to build one myself to see if it would work. I get the most enjoyment out of projects that go from adrenalin inspired enthusiasm to field trials in a half hour or less. As a result the finished product is often inelegant but hopefully functional. And so it was with this project. Having a collection of radio-junque accumulated over decades helps.

The picture shows a little project I threw together in a half hour to test whether AA5TB and M0UKD were promoting a good idea or snake oil. Both were using a variable capacitor to tune the tank circuit but, in my haste, I substituted a coax capacitor to make a matching device that would serve only a single band – I chose 20m.

**RED ALERT** **RED ALERT** **RED ALERT**

The parallel tuned circuit comprises, in addition to a variable capacitance (mine is variable by trimming its length with side cutters), the secondary winding of an impedance transformer. An impedance transformer? Isn’t that the weak link in the common 49:1 UNUN design employed by the unenlightened multitude?

I forged on regardless. A powdered iron toroidal core is used instead of the usual ferrite material. Why? To reduce the inductance to a level that can be resonated by the capacitor. As an experiment I tried winding 14 turns of magnet wire on a FT82-43 core but the inductance was way too high. The alternative is to use a powdered iron core and the only one I had in my junque box was a T200-2 so it would have to do. Another alternative is to wind an air core inductor. I soldered the coax capacitor in parallel with the secondary winding then wound two turns over the center of the secondary to create the primary winding.

Now, armed with my faithful side cutters I boldly went out onto my deck and hooked my new hastily built tank circuit matching unit to a piece of wire that I had previously established to be a true half wavelength on 20m. I attached a short coax between the matching device and my RigExpert AA55 Zoom antenna analyzer, fully expecting a “you gotta be kidding me” message on the display.

Surprise!

The RigExpert displayed a different message: “no snake oil here” craftily encoded by the numeric “1.8:1”. I was cheerily gobsmacked and, encouraged, I adjusted my “variable” capacitor with the side cutters a tiny bite at a time and watched as the SWR dropped inch-by-inch (2.54cm-by-2.54cm?). When the SWR dropped below 1.5:1 I laid down the side cutters and declared the match “good enough”.

Like a bridge over troubled waters

It all seemed too easy. The troubled waters of the End-Fed Half-Wave antenna have now been crossed by three different bridges: the traditional 49:1 UNUN, an L-match and now a tuned tank circuit. If the inefficiency of the traditional 49:1 UNUN arises in the flux leakage between its windings then the tuned tank circuit approach replicates that weakness. Perhaps flux leakage is even worse when using a powdered iron toroid or air core design. In one of AA5TBs projects the tank circuit inductance comprises an air core inductance with an 8-turn secondary and only a single turn primary which I found very surprising.

There are still more ways of matching the high feedpoint impedance of an EFHW antenna that may be explored later on Ham Radio Outside the Box, but for now the simple L-network seems to offer the best hope for a high efficiency matching device. What is your opinion? Let me know in the comments or, if you prefer, send me an email (good on qrz.com). I reply to all email received.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.


This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #EFHW #OutdoorOps #Portable #POTA

2025-05-13

Completed the first-pass AN-SOF simulation for the ground-mounted Chameleon Antenna tactical delta loop antenna. It uses 1:5 hybrid feed, CHA Hub, two SS-17, 17’ telescoping whips and a 25’ clip-on top wire to complete the loop. The simulation details post is at: qsl.net/n8dmt/an-sof-tactical-
#HamRadio #DeltaLoop #Antennas

Angle and X-Y-Z calculator sheet for the CHA TDL antenna. Need this information to setup the AN-SOF model...Drawing of the TDL loop antenna in AN-SOF.Estimated VSWR curve for the ground mounted delta loop using 50' RG-58C coax and 1:5 CHA Hybrid.
2025-05-10

Guess it’s #Shackturday here in Chicagoland… Here’s the temporary garage shack used occasionally with the temp setup of the CHA Tacti-cool Delta Loop alongside the house. This “big antenna” setup works much better than the normal indoor station & Magnetic Loop antenna. (Indoor Shack/Antenna pics at: qsl.net/n8dmt/amateur-radio/in)
#HamRadio #Antennas

Outdoor (garage) station setup to use with temporary outside antenna (delta loop outside garage door).Temporary outside antenna (tacti-cool delta loop) used with temporary garage HF station.
HamChallenge Bothamchallenge@mas.to
2025-05-08

#hamchallenge week 20 - fashionably late (don't ask!): Simulate an antenna! Which antenna type did you pick? Which program did you use? How does the process of entering the antenna work in that program? Which are the important parameters you get from the simulation? Let's hear all about it! #hamradio #antennas

2025-04-30

EFHW matching: 49:1 Impedance Transformer or L-Network?

What is the best way to match the very high impedance of an End-Fed Half-Wave antenna to the 50 ohm impedance of a transceiver? There are various ways to do this but this week’s post is going to focus on just two – a 49:1 impedance transformer (or UNUN if you prefer) and an L-network.

We are dealing with QRP devices but the same issues arise with QRO devices. In fact some of the complexities may be exacerbated at higher power – especially core overheating.

49:1 impedance transformer

QRP 49:1 impedance transformer. Note the separate primary and secondary windings

This is by far the most widely used matching device but many claim it is inefficient. I have used an “Outside the Box” winding method that I have seen described as “Fuchs style”. The primary and secondary windings are entirely separate instead of being twisted together. This method isolates the windings and is said to prevent static from traveling back down the coax to damage the transceiver. But it also requires a separate 0.05WL counterpoise connected to the bottom of the secondary winding.

Pros

  • Broadband operation
  • Easy to construct
  • No calculations needed

Cons

  • Lower efficiency claimed
  • Can be used on even harmonics but the antenna is only a half-wave on its fundamental frequency
  • Potential for losses due to core overheating
  • Leakage flux due to poor coupling between windings
  • May require capacitance across primary and/or secondary to compensate

L-network

QRP L-network featuring both a variable inductor and variable capacitor

Some claim that an L-network is more efficient than an impedance transformer. While I don’t dispute the claim I would respond “show me the math”. An L-network is usually constructed from a fixed value serial inductor and a fixed value parallel capacitor (although there are other topologies depending on the matching parameters involved). I built one using a slug-tuned variable inductor and a ceramic trimmer capacitor.

Pros

  • Higher efficiency claimed
  • Easy to construct
  • Avoids complex issues with transformer cores and winding coupling

Cons

  • Single band only
  • Calculations required to establish correct values of L and C

The Ham Radio Outside the Box laboratory (a grand name for my basement workbench) has built many 49:1 impedance transformers for both QRP and QRO operation. The QRP units are deployed in backpack portable operations and the QRO units have seen service both in the field and in the home shack. Both the conventional “twisted” coupling method and separate windings have been used.

Which winding method is best?

One of the issues with 49:1 transformers is “leakage flux” which means not all of the energy in the primary winding is coupled to the secondary. The conventional winding method is to twist the first two turns of the primary and secondary together to improve coupling. The remaining turns are only coupled to the primary by the flux in the core. Furthermore, there is often a “crossover” turn to bring the far end of the secondary out on the opposite side of the core from the primary. This may further reduce the coupling efficiency.

An alternative method is to wind the secondary, without a crossover turn, around the core. The separate primary is then wound around the center of the secondary. Should the secondary be spread around the core, or closely spaced? Opinions vary on this. I now favor keeping the secondary turns closely spaced. The reason? A closely spaced secondary winding should improve inter-winding coupling and reduce leakage flux.

What about the turns ratio?

Should it be 49:1, 64:1 or …? There is an easy answer to that: just divide your antenna impedance by 50 and bingo, there’s your answer. Oh, but what is the impedance of your antenna, 2000 ohms, 2319.647 ohms, 3000 ohms? We don’t actually know and it may vary depending on how the antenna wire is erected (which for portable operators may be different every time). A ratio of 49:1 provides a good enough match to most every value of End-Fed Half-Wave (and multiples) we are likely to experience.

Or just build an L-network!

We have seen that 49:1 impedance transformers have many variables that impact efficiency. Leakage flux has been discussed so it is relevant to note that placing a small capacitor (typically 100pF) across the primary winding is recommended to somehow compensate. Conventional 49:1 transformers are wound as autotransformers, so we have a series inductor between the antenna and the radio, and a parallel capacitor. Doesn’t that sound very similar to one of the topologies of an L-network?

My initial experiments with building L-networks involved a fixed series coil and a parallel capacitance made from a short length of thin coax – like RG-174. I experienced the problem that the calculated values of L and C did not provide the best possible match to 50 ohms. I still needed a “touch-up” tuner to bring the SWR down to a safe level for my QRP Labs QMX transceiver. I realized that a field portable antenna was going to need slightly different component values depending on whether my temporary station was setup on exposed ancient bedrock, or over the moist ground at the edge of one of the Great Lakes. What I needed was an L-match “tuner”, i.e. an L-network with variable inductors and capacitors.

42 years ago …

A long, long time ago (42 years to be precise) I was a penniless SWL foraging for food in the forest – alright that’s an exaggeration, but I had a young family and couldn’t spare the cash to buy a decent shortwave receiver. A friend told me about a design in Practical Wireless magazine for a shortwave converter that would work with a regular domestic AM receiver. I had the components shipped over from the recommended UK suppliers and built the converter. It worked splendidly and I spent many happy hours listening to the busy shortwave bands. Then I became fabulously wealthy (i.e. I could at last afford shoes and to eat every day of the week), bought a real HF radio and the converter was relegated to the back of a closet.

The point of the story is that I was able to scavenge that converter for the components I needed to build an L-match for an End-Fed Half-Wave antenna. The inductor shown in the picture above is wound over an adjustable slug-type ferrite core of unknown mix. The capacitor is a ceramic trimmer with a couple of fixed ceramic capacitors in parallel to bring its value into the range that was needed. The only comment I can make on the efficiency of that unknown core is that it didn’t get hot (or even warm) after an extended period of transmitting at 5 watts. Tuning is quite sharp but I was able to get a 1.5:1 SWR from my Shortened Sloping End-Fed Half-Wave antenna (see last week’s post). I probably could have obtained an even lower SWR by adjusting the length of the high Q top section of the SSEFHW.

QSO’s?

As a recent convert to L-networks I have only made enough QSOs to be countable on fingers and toes. On the other hand, over the years, I have made thousands of QSOs with a 49:1 impedance transformer. Both the devices shown in the pictures above accompany me on every field portable outing so I have options and can compare their performance.

Does it matter, really?

Sometimes I give my head a shake and tell myself to put the physics textbooks back on the shelf and just enjoy the experience of being out in the Big Blue Sky Shack with my radio. At other times, after calling CQ ’til the cows come home and getting no responses, I ponder the question of whether my antenna is doing its job or, as sailors used to say, is idly “swinging the lead”.

What are your experiences with either impedance transformers/UNUNs or L-networks? Your opinions are very welcome either by adding a comment below, or if you prefer, by email (QRZ.com).

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.


This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #OutdoorOps #Portable #QMX

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