#AgfaRapid

Filling The Gaps: The Bencini Comet Rapid Half-frame Camera

Back in the early 1960s, in response to Kodak’s introduction of its instamatic film system, the European film and camera company Agfa launched the Rapid system. Actually, it’s more accurate to say that they reintroduced their 1940s Karat film system under a new name. Instead of a sealed plastic cassette, the Agfa Rapid system used metal canisters, which contained a length of 35mm film. Inside the camera, the film would be fed from a full canister to an empty one. When exposed, the now filled canister was sent to the lab for development and the once full canister became the empty one for the next film.

When Agfa launched its Rapid film system, it produced dedicated cameras, but it also shared the Rapid format technology with other European and Japanese camera manufacturers as well. So, you can find Rapid cameras from Agfa, Canon, Ferrania, Hanimex, Mamiya, Minolta, Olympus, Ricoh, Voigtländer, and Yashica, among others. Bencini was an Italian manufacturer who produced cameras in various incarnations between the 1930s and the late 1980s. The Comet range, made from the 1940s until the 1970s, from what I gather, included 127, 120 and 35mm camera, so I guess that it was inevitable that one of these would include the Rapid format. 

The Bencini Comet Rapid was produced from about 1965 to the early 1970s. It’s a half-frame camera, with a frame size of 18x24mm, and it uses 35 mm film in Rapid canisters. Since the film is physically pushed from a full canister to an empty one, there is no rewind feature, just a thumbwheel on the back. The eyepiece took me a while to find, it’s just a tiny hole on the back of the camera. In contrast, the viewfinder on the front is a large gold tinted window very much like the viewfinder on my other Bencini half-frame camera, the Koroll 2.

I came across this model on that popular auction site during a random search for Rapid cameras. There were a few available in Europe, and prices were not that bad. I found one interesting item in Italy, so this is probably the furthest this Comet has travelled since its manufacture, and it was described as: ‘Vintage camera with case. Good condition, some signs of aging. Untested.’ I was a little put off by the ‘untested’ bit, but what really convinced me to go for it was a photograph of the open back of the camera; there was still a film in there. Perhaps it was because the camera had been stored loaded for a long time (I reckon decades) but the canisters were really hard to extract from the camera. I wasted one frame checking that the shutter was firing, but then prised the canisters out of the camera without moving the film too much.

I reloaded the canisters back into the Golden Wonder, the Welta Penti II half-frame Rapid camera, and exposed the rest of the frames at ISO 25. The counter on the top of the camera suggested that eight frames had been exposed, so I reckoned that there should be enough film for 10—15 half-frame images from this film, and I think I got eleven. Sadly, when I got to the end of the roll, it turned out it was Agfa CN S film. Made between 1965—72, Agfa CN S was a colour film that used the C22 process, and not C41. I can’t get it developed in C41 chemistry, because at 38°C the emulsion will fall off, so for the time being, the film is being stored in a 35mm cassette until I decide what to do with it.

https://flic.kr/p/2ry6BcH

The controls on the Bencini Comet Rapid are all on the front. On the top of the camera is a frame counter, and on the rear just the thumbwheel to wind on the film. To the right of the lens is the shutter speed dial. There are just two options: 1/30s for flash sync (with a little lightning symbol next to it), or 1/100s with a sun symbol. On the top of the lens housing is the aperture dial, between f8 and f22, which is changed by turning the lens housing. The Bencini Comet Rapid even has distance focusing, with a tiny ring on the front of the camera.

https://flic.kr/p/2rxZx15

The camera was pretty dirty, so I spent a good hour with the air blower, lens cleaner, and wipes cleaning it up. One thing I was delighted to achieve was removing a nasty brown crud from around the lens, so now the text, ‘Bencini Milano, Made In Italy’ stands out beautifully against a white background. To the naked eye, the lens looks clean now. I’m just hoping that there isn’t some fungus behind the front element. 

https://flic.kr/p/2rybF4p

I loaded the Comet with some Lomochrome Turquoise, which I had bought specifically to decant into Rapid canisters, and took it to Oliveira do Bairro. The Lomography Turquoise was rated at at ISO 100, and the shutter speed of the Comet set to 1/100s. To judge the correct exposure, I used the Camera Meter app. After a lovely morning around the town,I decanted the film into a recyclable 35mm cassette and dropped it off at Forever Blue in Aveiro. The negatives were scanned at home with an Epson Perfection v750 Pro flat bed scanner and Epson Scan software. I’ve posted the whole roll in an album on my Flickr, if you want to see the rest of the images. 

https://flic.kr/p/2ry6cRN

I was delighted with how the photographs came out, the Comet behaved admirably and I’m glad to have another Rapid half-frame camera to add to the collection. It seems to me that when it’s rated at lower ISOs the turquoise effect of the Lomochrome is not as pronounced as at higher ratings, but for this experiment, that was fine. The images were a little ‘soft’ when blown up, so there might be some haze under the lens still. I’m not sure how I might access that, and at this stage I really don’t want to. In conclusion, the Bencini Comet Rapid is a lovely little camera. One thing that did occur to me was that since the Agfa CN S film was only produced up to 1972, that might date the camera from the late 1960s to the early 1970s. That would be cool.

https://flic.kr/p/2ry4Wti

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The town hall in Oliveira do Bairro taken with the Bencini Comet.

The #FrugalFilmProject, September 2025: The One Where We Tried To Expose Both Sides (Again)

This post has been sitting in my draft folder since the middle of September,  and I’ve just realised that I haven’t posted it, and it’s now October. Oops! I had actually submitted  one of the images for the World Wide Half Frame Photography Day, and I guess that with all that was going on, this post just slipped through the cracks. A couple of months ago on the Frugal Film Project, I tried something different: EBS photography, or Expose Both Sides. This is exactly what it sounds like, first exposing a film normally in the camera — with the emulsion side facing the subject — and then reversing the film, reloading it back into the camera, and exposing the whole film again — this time with the emulsion side facing away from the subject.

https://flic.kr/p/2rhpwgd

It didn’t go well. Even though I marked the film carefully, somehow I managed to get the alignment completely wrong, so the frames on each side of the film were not lined up. In fact they were almost precisely 50% off, so there was a big band down the centre of the ‘normal’ exposure which was the ‘between frames’ unexposed part of the film of the redscaled exposure. However, this made me all the more determined, and I really wanted to try the technique again. I read somewhere that it’s better to expose the redscaled side first, and then to expose normally for the second exposure. So this time I decanted some Harman Red film into a Rapid canister and loaded this into the Golden Wonder. The pre-production Harman Red I have is actually Harman Phoenix spooled backwards. In fact, within the sprockets it even says Harman Phoenix, so I feel this certainly counts towards the Frugal Film Project.

https://flic.kr/p/2rsYQqN

As before, I marked the position of the film gate, and this time, since I reckon this was one of the reasons the film didn’t line up the first time, I also marked the position on the film of the little tabs that engage the sprockets and push the film into the empty canister. My subject was street art, so with the redscale side I took a close-up of a series of pieces of street art around Aveiro. Once the film was finished, I decanted this into another Rapid canister, with the emulsion side facing the subject, and lined up the film with the markings on the other side (remembering to make sure that the position of the little tabs matched, too). I then retraced my route, taking photographs of the same pieces of street art, but this time at a distance.

https://flic.kr/p/2rt5pYA

When taking the photos for the second series of exposures I held the camera upside down so that the orientation of the images on both sides would be in the same direction, although I did forget this a couple of times. On completion, the film was taken to Forever Blue in Aveiro and scanned at home with an Epson Perfection v750 Pro flat bed scanner and Epson Scan software. This time, the frames on both sides were almost perfectly lined up, which was excellent. Unfortunately, both the ‘redscaled’ exposure and regular exposures were well overexposed. I had tried to underexpose the exposures on each side by 1-stop, but clearly it didn’t work, and I’m thinking that Harman Phoenix, with a box speed of ISO 200, is just too fast for EBS with the Welta Penti II half-frame Rapid camera.

https://flic.kr/p/2rsYQqN

After my initial disappointment with the images, I wasn’t sure what I got, and I was confused and a little deflated with the results, on repeating viewings I became a little happier with what I had achieved.  The images took on a really ‘painterly’ effect, almost not a photograph at all, and I really liked that. The colours were all over the place, I wasn’t sure if that was because of the scanning or what, but the overall effect was pleasing. I’m going to try it again, but this time with a slower film, and perhaps not trying to overlap with the same pieces of street art each time.I’ve posted the whole roll in an album (https://www.flickr.com/gp/147583812@N06/QBYW5KMxg8) on my Flickr, light leaks and all, if you want to see the rest of the images.

https://flic.kr/p/2rsYQp5

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Close-up of street art with film exposed both sides.

The #FrugalFilmProject, August 2025: The One Where We Took The Golden Wonder On Holiday

We generally spend the month of August on holiday down in Meco, which means that most of the time I don’t have my Frugal Film camera with me. This usually meansI either I miss a month, or find myself rushing around to grab something in the last couple of days after we get back. This year, though, I have the Golden Wonder, and that little beastie is small enough to carry around in a pocket. So I decanted Harman Phoenix into a couple of Rapid canisters and took it with me.

https://flic.kr/p/2rs86bu

What I especially wanted to try this month was diptychs and triptychs, two or more half-frame images presented alongside each other. First of all, I took the Golden Wonder loaded with a canister of redscaled Harman Phoenix into the woods between the village of Meco and the Praia Ria da Prata. These are the pine woods that we have to walk through to get to the beach, and I’ve taken a lot of images of these trees over the years.

https://flic.kr/p/2rscu7a

The afternoon sun falls sideways on the trees, and it’s perfect for redscale. This time I was focusing on isolated trees, and I tried to fill each side of the diptych with one tree. I also found a few telegraph and electricity poles, so of course I had to get a few diptychs of these, too. On the whole,  it was a fun exercise, and it got me outside on a day that it was too windy to go on the beach.

https://flic.kr/p/2rscu5X

The second canister was filled with ‘normal’ Harman Phoenix (the roll was not reversed, as for redscale), but this time the results were less satisfactory. I still got some nice results, especially from the tripych and the sunsets, but some of the images were really disappointing. For some reason, with the Golden Wonder I always get better results with redscaled Phoenix. I’ve posted the both rolls in albums on my Flickr, light leaks and all, if you want to see the rest of the images. You can find the normally exposed Phoenix here, and the redscaled version, here.

https://flic.kr/p/2rscu3h

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A triptych of the beach in Meco.

It’s Pink! Gearing Up For The Crappy Commie Camera Party (Part V): The Beirette SL 100N

The Beirette SL 100 was originally launched by the Karl Pouva KG company of Dresden in 1972 as the Pouva Start SL 100. When the company became the state-owned Kamerafabrik Freital, the name was changed to the Beirette SL 100. In 1987, the Beirette SL 100N was introduced in a range of different colours, and I was delighted to find this lovely version in pink for not very much money. 

The camera is made almost entirely of plastic, with a cup-like lens cap permanently attached to the camera with an plastic strip. It’s a simple camera, with a Chromar 50mm lens, and zone focusing of 1—3m, 3—8m, and 8m to infinity marked with little icons on the lens. The shutter has two speeds of 1/30s (flash) and 1/125s (for ‘sunny’  conditions), plus B, and a fixed aperture of f11.

The Beirette SL 100N has a countdown frame counter. After loading a film, the counter is set to 0 with the wheel on the rear of the camera. The film is advanced until ’12’ is visible and the camera is then ready to use. After taking the last frame (number 1), the film is advanced three more times before opening the camera and unloading the film.

Naturally, I was keen to see how the camera performed, so I loaded the SL100N with an SL canister of probably slightly expired Lomography 100 film. I say ‘slightly expired’ because the film was supplied loose so there was no packaging with any film stock details on it. In the event, the exposure was … reasonable. Some of the images came out really well, though I felt that the negatives were quite ‘thin’, but the wind-on mechanism was rubbish with poor frame-spacing and far too many overlapping images. 

https://flic.kr/p/2rhpyEB

https://flic.kr/p/2rhopVY

There were also a lot of light leaks, though this was intermittent, and I reckon that this because of the poor quality of the recyclable 35mm cassette that I used to transfer the film from the Rapid canister rather than the camera. The Beirette is really light hungry, and will benefit from using a much faster film, even on sunny days. Despite these faults, I really like the Beirette and will certainly try it out again, though probably not before the end of the Crappy Commie Camera Party. I’ve posted the whole roll in an album on my Flickr, light leaks and all, if you want to see the rest of the images.

https://flic.kr/p/2rhopR9

https://flic.kr/p/2rhq6wD

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Derelict building in Oliveira do Bairro, Portugal.

The #FrugalFilmProject, July 2025: The One Where We Tried To Expose Both Sides

This month I thought it would be fun to try something different with the Golden Wonder (a.k.a the Welta Penti II, half-frame Rapid camera). EBS photography, or Expose Both Sides, is exactly what it sounds like. First exposing a film normally in the camera — with the emulsion side facing the subject — but then reversing the film, reloading that into the camera, and exposing the whole film again — this time with the emulsion side facing away from the subject.

There are a few factors that need to be borne in mind when conducting EBS photography, like slightly underexposing each side so that the multiple exposures balance out to give a ‘properly exposed’ film, and deciding whether its important to you if the frames on each side are lined up or not. I loaded the Golden Wonder with a canister of Harman Phoenix, but this time I inserted a little bit of film into the take-up canister and marked the position of the film gate on the film. By doing this I hoped that I could line up the frames when I exposed the other side of the film. I reset the frame counter to zero, closed the camera, and fired off two shots to take the counter to ‘1’.

We took the camera to Barra, where I took photographs around the beach, and later finished the roll in Oliveira do Bairro. When metering the exposures I tried to underexpose the film slightly by taking each image 1-stop under the suggested reading from the Camera Meter app. Once the film was exposed, it was time to turn it over and reload it back into the Golden Wonder. Inside the dark bag I fed the previously exposed film into another Rapid canister, but this time I fed it backwards, as if for redscaling, with the emulsion side facing outwards. 

Once loaded into the canister, I pulled a bit of film out of the canister until I could see the gate markings that I made for the first exposure. I marked the emulsion side of the film with the markings in the same position and loaded the canisters into the camera so the film was in the same position. I then reset the frame counter to zero, closed the camera, and fired off two shots to take the counter to number ‘1’. By doing this, I hoped that the frames on each side were lined up.

I took the Golden Wonder on a walk around Águas Boas, a nearby village, and photographed walls, trees and various textures. When taking the photos I held the camera upside down so that the orientation of the images on the both sides would be in the same direction. On completion, the film was taken to Forever Blue in Aveiro and scanned at home with an Epson Perfection v750 Pro flat bed scanner and Epson Scan software. I’ve posted the whole roll in an album on my Flickr, light leaks and all, if you want to see the rest of the images. 

On return from the lab, looking at the negatives one thing was immediately apparent: the frames weren’t lined up. In fact they were almost precisely 50% off, so there was a big band down the centre of the first exposure which was the ‘between frames’ unexposed part of the film of the second exposure. Also, the ‘redscaled’ second exposure was well overexposed compared to the first exposure, so most of the details of the first exposure were completely lost. I had tried to underexpose the second exposure by going 1-stop unter the exposure, but clearly it didn’t work.

https://flic.kr/p/2rhpwgd

https://flic.kr/p/2rhonBE

A couple of the images came out really well, and I was pleased there was some success, but most of them were an unintelligible mess. At the end of the roll, there were a few more redscale images, and these came out really well. I’m definitely going to try some EBS with Rapid films again, though, but next time I might use a different camera to the Golden Wonder. Still, it’s now challenging me to get the frames lined up.

https://flic.kr/p/2rhpwk1

https://flic.kr/p/2rhj79p

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A double (EBS) exposure of the lighthouse in Barra, Portugal.

The #FrugalFilmProject, June 2025: Oh, I Do Like To Be Beside The Seaside (Part II)

After last month’s mixed results from the Golden Wonder (a.k.a the Welta Penti II, half-frame Rapid camera), I loaded the it with a canister of Harman Phoenix and we went to Costa Nova. It was the perfect opportunity to have a fabulous lunch at the Marisqueira Costa Nove, and to play tourist with the unique buildings that form the ‘seafront’ along the estuary of the river in Costa Nova. 

https://flic.kr/p/2rbGjXX

The typical buildings here, some over 100 years old, are painted with different coloured stripes on a white background. But there are plenty of other styles of building in the ‘terrace’ that forms the row of houses. Some typically art deco, some which look like from the 1950s, and some of quite indeterminate ages 

https://flic.kr/p/2rbHW7g

Nowadays,  the modern buildings in Costa Nova are covered in tiles marking the stripes, but these are kept away from the original row of houses and I believe planning permission or renovation needs to follow strict rules. This makes the houses quite expensive, and if you’re looking for one of these houses you need deep pockets.

https://flic.kr/p/2rbHWcr

As I had not completed the film, I used the rest of the frames on a trip to Barra. I’ve posted the whole roll in an album on my Flickr, light leaks and all, if you want to see the rest of the images. For exposure metering I used the Camera Meter app and rated the film at ISO 100, because on a test with the Pentacon Electra 2 I got some really nice results with Harman Phoenix at ISO 100. This wasn’t too successful, though, the images were still a dullish brown and with quite high contrast.

https://flic.kr/p/2rbHmxb

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A row of striped houses in Costa Nova.

Gearing up for the Crappy Commie Camera Party (Part IV): The Pentacon Electra 2, An Automatic Camera For SL Film

Anyone who has read this blog will know that I’ve really tumbled down the Rapid film system rabbit hole. It all started late in 2024, when I picked up a couple of Agfa’s Iso-Rapid IF cameras and the Welta Penti II (the ‘Golden Wonder’) for the Frugal Film Project. Since then, I’ve added several more Rapid film cameras to my collection, from a 1940s Agfa Karat — the original version of Agfa’s Rapid system — to 1960s Rapid cameras like the Voigtländer Vitoret Rapid D.

The 1940s Agfa Karat, the original Rapid film system.

Although the Rapid film system was developed by the West German film company Agfa, in response to the launch of Kodak’s instamatic film system, East German camera companies soon developed their own version of Rapid film, known as the SL, or Schnell Lade (‘Speed Loading’) system. Eastern Bloc SL cameras used exactly the same format canisters as the Agfa Rapid system, the films are interchangeable, except that the SL canisters were made of plastic, not metal, like in the West.

The 1960s Smena SL. The Eastern Bloc copy of Agfa’s Rapid film cameras.

I already have two SL format cameras, my beloved Smena SL, with its classic Triplet T-43 4/40 lens, and the ‘Golden Wonder’, which I think of as a Rapid camera but it was actually made in East Germany, and I had this ‘need’ for a couple more. I started my search with the SL System page on Wikipedia, which quite handily gives a list of SL format cameras at the bottom. I mentally crossed off the Smena SL and the Penti II, and started searching down the list on eBay. 

In the end, I settled on a Pentacon Electra 2, an aperture priority automatic camera from the late 1960s, from a German seller. In the eBay post it was described as, ‘fully functional condition with age-appropriate signs of wear’, but what really convinced me to go with this model was a YouTube video about the camera which featured a close-up of the lens and its wonderful 60s style pictograms for the focusing distance markers.

The Pentacon Electra 2 is a camera that screams the 60s, from the amazing pictograms mentioned above to its Eastern Bloc brick-like shape — almost utilitarian. What is unusual about this camera is that it’s an automatic camera. Well, aperture priority — you set the exposure, sunny, hazy, or cloudy — and the camera sets the shutter speed. It’s powered by two AA batteries, and the CdS sensor is situated behind a little round window above the lens.

Being an SL format camera, there’s no rewind knob, and the top of the camera is plain apart from a hot shoe and a little window for the film counter. The camera actually came with a flash, but that flash is anything but portable. It’s huge, for one thing, and instead of taking batteries the flash is powered by a mains lead! On the bottom of the camera is a thread for a tripod and a cover for the battery compartment. Handily, the cover has a guide to the aperture settings and conditions. 

On the front, to the right of the lens, is a little toggle switch that you can set the ISO of the film. There are two options, ISO 50 or 100. To the left of the lens is another toggle switch to set how the camera functions. This can be set to three options: Automatic (actually aperture priority), flash sync (1/125s), or flash sync for bulbs (1/30s). Below this toggle switch is the shutter lever. 

Focus distance is presented in metres and feet around the lens. There are also those wonderful pictograms for distances for portraits, groups and landscapes. The aperture can be set to f2.8, f4.8, f8, and f13.5 with a lever on the bottom of the lens. You can see these as little icons through a window on the top of the lens for ‘tripod’ (fully open), cloudy, hazy and sunny conditions. If you turn the lens upside-down the lens has the f-numbers printed out. They are also on the battery cover.

On the back of the Electra is a wind-on knob with a large arrow showing the direction of travel of the film. This is important since the direction is right to left, instead of the customary left to right. When the film is wound on, the shutter is cocked with a satisfying ‘click’ 

https://flic.kr/p/2raDP66

I was keen to try out the Pentacon Electra 2, and loaded it with a roll of Harman Phoenix film that I have laying around (nowadays I always have some Phoenix, or Harman Red, decanted into Rapid canisters for the Frugal Film Project). Besides, it’s the Crappy Commie Camera Party, and I want to use the Pentacon for this, too. In my rush to get out, I was half way through the roll before I remembered that the box speed of Phoenix is actually ISO 100, so the film was underexposed by 1 stop. However, I came across a YouTube video where someone exposed Phoenix at ISO 100, so I’m hoping that I might have got away with it.

https://flic.kr/p/2raDP7D

The results came out great! I needn’t have worried about rating the film at ISO 100 instead of the box speed of ISO 200. There were some light leaks, but I’m increasingly convinced that these are because of the lab loading these into the developing machine rather than leaks within the camera or SL canister. Instead of transferring the film to a 35mm cassette, this film was loaded straight from the SL canister, and there were still light leaks. On the frames thatdid not show light leaks, the exposure was spot on, and I reckon these are the best results I have had from Harman Phoenix. 

https://flic.kr/p/2raDP97

I’ve posted the whole roll in an album on my Flickr, light leaks and all, if you want to see the rest of the images.

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A row of trees, with light leaks.

The #FrugalFilmProject, May 2025: WTF?

I’ve been a bit tardy with posting my May entry for the Frugal Film Project. The weather in our region was unpredictable for the best part of the month, and the forecast was unsettled. But the last week of May the rain stopped, the skies cleared, and we had a few days of really nice weather.

https://flic.kr/p/2r93rbo

This also coincided with a need for a trip to Coimbra, so I thought it was the perfect opportunity to take the Golden Wonder (a.k.a the Welta Penti II, half-frame camera) along with me. I loaded the Penti II with a fresh canister of Harman Phoenix, and we took it through the back streets of the old town of Coimbra, and also down the main street. At the end of the trip I still had a few frames left, so a few days later I took the Golden Wonder on a trip around Costa Nova and Vagueira. 

https://flic.kr/p/2r8WPbb

As usual, to measure the exposure I used the Camera Meter app and rated the film at ISO 160. I dropped the film off at the lab a few days later, and within a couple of hours the images dropped into my inbox. I opened them for a first look. WTF? What. The. Actual. F? The subjects came out great, I’ll say that for the Golden Wonder, what you point it at, the cameras sees perfectly, but the light leaks? I do love my light leaks, I always think that they give character to the images, but in this case it was a bit much.

https://flic.kr/p/2r8WPae

I originally thought that the lab might have scanned the roll with the wrong colour profile, and asked them about it. In reply the lab sent a snap of the film with the comment that it was ‘burned’, and looking at the film I was amazed that they got anything from it at all! Further along the roll the images looked like the film had light leaks, but the first few frames were almost solarised. 

https://flic.kr/p/2r92hYB

For those not aware, solarisation is where the exposed film is exposed to light so that certain tones are reversed. It is also referred to as the Sabbatier Effect (although this is a slightly different phenomenon). Often the edges of objects on film show the most pronounced effect, and this can clearly be seen on some of the early images from Coimbra. The later images, near the tail end of the film, show more normal looking light leaks. 

https://flic.kr/p/2r93YGb

I was a little frustrated with the results, it’s not often that we go to Coimbra, but on reflection I really like how some of these came out. I’m sure I’ll never be able to produce this effect again, of course. I’ve posted the whole roll in an album on my Flickr, light leaks and all, if you want to see the rest of the images.

https://flic.kr/p/2r93YF9

If you are on Mastodon, you can now follow this blog directly. Just go to Mastodon and follow the ‘Snapshot’ WordPress account at @keithdevereux.wordpress.com. All new posts will be automatically updated to your timeline.

#Agfa #AgfaRapid #FrugalFilmProject #HalfFrame #HarmanPhoenix #Penti2 #Rapid #RapidFilm #Welta

A derelict house by the side of the road.

Further and Further Down the Rabbit Hole: The Voigtländer Vitoret D Rapid

Every time I say to myself, ‘I have enough cameras now,’ somehow another one always seems to grab my attention. I wasn’t looking for another Rapid camera, but then a Voigtländer Vitoret D popped up during a random browse on eBay, something, ‘Inspired by your recent search ‘. It was reasonably priced, and with several days to go before the auction came to an end no-one had made any bids. I added it to my watchlist and left it alone, popping in to see what was happening from time to time.

With a few hours to go before the end of the auction there were still no bids for this Rapid camera. I had checked the reviews of the seller already, which were positive, and the condition of the camera was described as, ‘beautiful, fully functional condition (tested) with only minor signs of wear’. With this in mind, I put in a minimum bid, and waited until the auction was closed. There were no further bids, and the Voigtländer Vitoret D Rapid was mine.

The Vitoret D is a manual focus camera made by Voigtländer and introduced c.1962. There is a ‘normal’ 35mm version, but my model is the Rapid version that uses Agfa Rapid film canisters. It has a rounded body, which dates it to before 1966, when a modified model was released with squarer body corners. It comes with a 40mm f2.8 Color-Lanthar lens,  with apertures between f2.8 and f22, and a Prontor 300 leaf shutter, with speeds of 1/30s, 1/60s, 1/125s and 1/300s (+ B).

According to the description, the ‘optics are clean, with no dust, fungus, or fungus residue. The shutter speeds run smoothly and even at long exposures. The leather trim is not worn.’ So it should be in good condition. The Vitoret D Rapid has an uncoupled selenium cell in a window to the right of the lens, and you can see the suggested exposure reading on a little window on the top of the camera, where in a normal camera the rewind knob might be. I’m not sure if this works properly but I can use the camera meter app and set the camera manually.

On its arrival, I could see that the Vitoret D was in lovely cosmetic condition, with few signs of use and a lovely clear lens. However, on checking the shutter speeds and apertures, although the faster speeds of 1/125s and 1/300s sounded fine, the slower speeds of 1/60s, 1/30s, and B, lagged terribly. This is something I will raise with the seller. The apertures were fine, though. 

https://flic.kr/p/2r6bVLW

https://flic.kr/p/2r6icmK

https://flic.kr/p/2r6hDvd

Naturally, I was keen to see how the camera performed, so I loaded the Vitoret D with a canister of Harman Phoenix and set off for a walk ‘around the block’. For exposure I used the Camera Meter app and rated the film at ISO 160, which is the speed I normally use with Harman Phoenix. In the event, the exposure was fine. Harman Phoenix kept its high contrast tonality, and some of the images came out really well. However,  there were also a lot of light leaks, and in some instances the image was more light leak than subject. Despite these faults, I really like the camera, and will certainly try it out again. I’ve posted the whole roll in an album on my Flickr, light leaks and all, if you want to see the rest of the images.

https://flic.kr/p/2r6grHv

https://flic.kr/p/2r6bVNe

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#AgfaRapid #Canister #Experimental #HarmanPhoenix #Rapid #RapidFilm #VitoretRapidD #Voigtländer

The (now decimated) woods behind our house.

A Karat Film Camera That Wasn’t Made By Agfa: The Bilora Radix 35 BH

I came across an odd one the other day. I was searching for some history on the Karat film system, the original version of Agfa’s Rapid system launched (or relaunched) in the 1960s, and naturally Chrome suggested an article by Mike Eckman. Keppler’s Vault 84: AGFA Rapid Film, is a thorough history of the Rapid film system. It delves into the history of the format, notably that the Rapid film system was based on a revival of Agfa’s Karat film from the 1930s and 40s. (Interestingly, Karat film was an attempt to compete with Kodak’s 35mm cassette.) 

In the post, Mike Eckman discusses the history of the Rapid film system with reference to a couple of contemporary articles from the 1960s. ‘The second article’, Eckman writes, ‘is from August 1964, and … tells some of the history of the format, even alluding to a very rare Bilora Radix Karat camera that was introduced in 1949 ….’ Mentally, my ears pricked up. What? A Karat camera not made by Agfa? Of course, my curiosity was raised so I started a search for this elusive ‘Bilora Radix camera’.

Turns out that there is quite a bit of information out there about the Radix. It was only around for a few years, from 1948 until about 1952, and it was bad timing by the Bilora camera company, better known for its cheap box cameras, to launch a Karat format camera just as Agfa was winding down its own operations in favour of using the dominant 35mm film cassette. There were a whole range of Radix cameras, from models with a fixed shutter speed, but a variable aperture, to models with five shutter speeds.

Well, by now I really wanted to get my hands on one of these cameras, so turned my attention to that popular auction site. There were a few variations available in Europe, and prices were not that bad. I found one interesting item in Germany. ‘For sale is an old camera that shoots in the 135mm square format using 24×24 film’, the advert for the item said (in German). ‘I found it in a store, bought it home, and used it to shoot two rolls of FomaPAN200.’ Unusually for an eBay post, this advert actually included two or three images taken with the camera, and they weren’t bad.

‘Although this camera isn’t famous,’ the description continued, ‘it’s still an improved version of the RADIX series with adjustable shutter speeds. The lens is clear and scratch- and fungus-free, and the shutter is precise and stick-free.’ According to the description and photographs the camera even included two Rapid canisters, so now I was really interested. Fortunately, I won the auction, although someone did try to snap it up at the last second, but didn’t bid higher than my max bid, and the auction closed.

The Bilora Radix is a strange beast. Yes, it looks like a normal camera, but the shutter button is not a button but a serrated lever that slides left to right. The shutter speed dial is a knob on the front of the camera to the right of the lens, and the back is removed by twisting the two lugs on the back of the camera which comes off in one piece. The aperture is changed by a small lever on the front of the lens, and this model was known as the Radix 35 because it is fited with an f3.5 lens. Another model, fitted with an f5.6 lens is known as the Radix 56. I think this version is one of the later models in the Radix range, and I reckon that it dates from the early 1950s. All in all, it’s in pretty good condition for a 70-year-old camera. 

This version of the Radix is quite sophisticated compared to others in the Range, with variable shutter speeds and apertures. It also came with two Rapid canisters, which was really useful. The take-up canister is nice and lose in its space, but the full/delivery canister was really tight. I’m wondering if this is because of a difference between Rapid and Karat canisters, and I’m going to have to compare these later, but it doesn’t seem to make any difference to the function of the camera.

In the meantime, I’m going to load the Radix with a roll of Harman Phoenix redscaled film that I have loaded in a canister and take that to Aveiro. One thing I did find about the Radix is that when you open the back it doesn’t reset to 0, the numbers just continually cycle around. I wound the camera back to the dot after ’16’ and loaded the canister of Phoenix. I fired off two frames, but instead of a ‘1’ appearing for the start of the film, an ‘A’ appeared, followed by a dot. In fact, it looks like these frame indicator goes, ‘1 … 16 . . .  A . 1 …’. But hopefully it’ll work OK.

As the film was redscaled I rated it at ISO 100, and set the shutter speed to 1/200s, the fastest shutter speed of the Radix. To judge the correct exposure, I used the Camera Meter app. It was a cloudy day, and around Aveiro the suggested aperture for the redscaled Harman Phoenix film was mainly between f16 and f8.

Aside from a couple of images in Oiã, I only managed about 6 exposures in total from what turned out to be a really short piece of film, and only one was from Aveiro. There were a few light leaks, and I’m still not sure where these were from, but I was delighted with the images that turned out and I can’t wait to get out with the Bilora Radix again soon. I’ve posted the whole roll in an album on my Flickr, light leaks and all, if you want to see the rest of the images. 

https://flic.kr/p/2r2ZtEh

https://flic.kr/p/2r35RHH

https://flic.kr/p/2r36fZX

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#Agfa #AgfaKarat #AgfaRapid #Bilora #BiloraRadix #Canister #Experimental #Karat #Rapid #RapidFilm #Vintage #Radix

A Bilora Radix Karat format camera and two Rapid canisters.

Taking A fresh Look At That Expired Redscale Film

Recently, I took a trip to Aveiro to try out the KW Patent Etui 9×12 folding camera with the Rollex 118 film back for Folder Week, a celebration of folding cameras. I also brought along an Agfa Silette Rapid F camera from the 1960s, loaded with expired (c.2002) Konica VX-100 colour film. I wanted to use the Silette for the week’s Lens-Artists Challenge, which this time was ‘Go-To Places’.

To stir things up a bit, the expired film film was redscaled, meaning that it was loaded reversed into the Rapid canister so the image is taken through the backing layer of the film. Since film, especially colour film, loses light sensitivity over time, it needs to be exposed differently to normal film. The ‘rule of thumb’ for shooting expired film is to give it one extra stop of exposure for each decade after the expiry date. But the rule for redscaling film is to give the exposure one more stop of exposure depending on the ISO of the film. So I exposed the 100 ISO film at ISO 6. 

Redscaled film generally gives the subject a high contrast orangey/red hue, but in this case, when the images came back from the lab, the colours were really mixed up. I’m not sure whether this was because the laboratory misunderstood that the film was redscaled, and tried to produce colours that are normal for colour film, or whether this was because of the colour shifting of the film. Either way, for a 20+ year-old film I was really happy with the results and submitted the images to the Challenge.

Still, I wondered why the images were so different to ‘normal’ redscale film, and even different to some expired redscale film that I’ve come across. I went back to the original scans from the lab and opened the file in SnapSeed. A little fiddling with curves and whatnot made little difference, but then I went to the white balance option and set the white balance in a white part of the image. Instantly the whole image went ‘bluescale’. Like redscale but shades of blue. So then I set the white balance dropper on a black portion of the image and, voila! Redscale.

https://flic.kr/p/2qZAdZV

I tried this with the other images in the series, and it worked with them, too. Lovely redscaled images from 20-year-old film. I’ve posted the whole roll in an album on my Flickr, if you want to see the rest of the images, and also the original images. I’m not certain if this could be considered true redscale, or if it is cheating, but I really like how these came out and it’s encouraging me to try some more expired film, especially redscaling colour film 

https://flic.kr/p/2qZAe1r

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#AgfaRapid #Challenge #Expired #ExpiredFilm #LensArtists #MyGoToPlaces #Redscale #LensArtists

A redscaled view of the metal footbridge in the Parque Infante Dom Pedro in Aveiro.

The #FrugalFilmProject, April 2025: A Morning Out in Aveiro

This month with the Golden Wonder (a.k.a the Welta Penti II, half-frame camera) we had a morning in Aveiro. The actual plan was to test out a new (to me) Horizon 202 panoramic camera, but of course I had to bring along with me the Golden Wonder and a roll of Harman Phoenix. No redscaling this month, just a leisurely walk around the city.

https://flic.kr/p/2qZo6je

I was dropped off near the hospital in Aveiro, which is close to my favourite footbridge, the wonderful metal structure in the Parque Infante Dom Pedro. I sat on a bench near the footbridge and loaded the Golden Wonder with a fresh canister of film. Actually, I was lucky. On the spur of the moment, when selecting the canister of film from my little box I had added an empty canister to the camera bag ‘just in case’. That was a good idea, as when I opened the back of the Penti II it was empty!

https://flic.kr/p/2qZoTQ6

I loaded the fresh canister, and the empty canister, into the Penti II and closed it up. As an aside, the Golden Wonder is really tough to open and close. I’m not sure if the back plate is becoming twisted. I hope that it lasts the year. I took a walk around the bridge and photographed it from various angles, Also in the park is the bandstand that is a regular fixture of my walks around Aveiro and for the first time I went to the water tower to one side of the park.

https://flic.kr/p/2qZn52D

From the Parque I took a walk down to the canals near the centre of Aveiro, and then down to the Yacht Club. From there I walked to the circular footbridge, known in Aveiro as the Ponte do Laço, before heading for the railway station and the journey home. On the way I finished off the film in the Horizon 202, before unloading the camera and dropping the film at the lab. I still had a few frames left in the Golden Wonder, though, so I brought the camera home and used the last few frames in a walk around the nearby village of Águas Boas. 

https://flic.kr/p/2qZo6na

For exposure I used the Camera Meter app and rated the film at ISO 125. I normally rate Harman Phoenix at ISO 160, but this time I used 125 as it is the box speed of Harman Red, which I had loaded into the Horizon 202, and I was feeding a little lazy with the metering. In the event, the exposure was fine. Harman Phoenix kept its high contrast tonality, and some of the images came out really well. I’ve posted the whole roll in an album on my Flickr, light leaks and all, if you want to see the rest of the images.

https://flic.kr/p/2qZorhQ

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#HarmanPhoenix #Agfa #AgfaRapid #FrugalFilmProject #HalfFrame #Penti2 #Rapid #RapidFilm #Welta

The bandstand in the Parque de Infante Dom Pedro in Aveiro.

Lens-Artists Challenge #345: My Go-To Places

After last week’s excellent theme by Anne from Slow Shutter Speed of ‘Abandoned‘, which resulted in some fabulous posts, it was John’s turn, from Journeys with Johnbo, to host the Challenge. His was certainly a hard act to follow, but John rose to the challenge with his theme this week, ‘My Go-To Places‘. ‘Recently, I heard one of my favorite songs [and the] lyrics got me thinking about where I go when the “world starts getting me down.”’ John continued, ‘My favorite places to visit locally are the nearby parks’, and after showing some lovely images to illustrate the theme, he asked: ‘I’ve shared my Go-To places; now it’s time for you to share where you go or what you do to help lift those spirits when this old world starts getting you down’.

The woods behind our house. Taken with and Olympus C-100 point and shoot camera with failing sensor-

I’ve posted some of my Go-To places in previous Challenges, like the woods behind our house, or Oliveira do Bairro and the scrubland behind our local Lidl (that is currently inaccessible after the almost constant rain), or the city of Aveiro with its famous canals and myriad examples of street art. But I also have a few other places that I love to visit, and some Go-To places that I haven’t actually managed to visit yet.

An infrared Digital Aerochrome of the ‘Borg cube’, the Melia Ria hotel, taken with a full-spectrum Panasonic Lumix digital camera and colour filters.

One place that I always love visiting, and return to again and again, is the city of Aveiro. This city, near the coast in the middle of Portugal, is famous for its canals. Indeed, it is known as the Venice of Portugal (though I doubt that Venice is known as the Aveiro of Italy in return). If you’ve seen my blog, or some of my previous entries in the Challenge, odds are you’ve come across some of the places in Aveiro I visit regularly, like the bandstand, the Yacht Club, the wonderful ‘Borg cube’ of the Melia Ria hotel, and the many examples of ever-changing street art.

So today here’s something a little different. A selection of my favourite views of Aveiro taken with an Agfa Silette Rapid F camera from the 1960s loaded with expired (c.2002) Konica VX-100 colour film. The film has been redscaled, meaning that it was loaded into the Rapid canister backwards so the image is taken through the backing layer of the film.

Since film, especially colour film, loses light sensitivity over time, it needs to be exposed differently to normal film. The ‘rule of thumb’ for shooting expired film is to give it one extra stop of exposure for each decade after the expiry date. But the rule for redscaling film is to give the exposure one more stop of exposure depending on the ISO of the film. So I have exposed this 100 ISO film at ISO 6. I was going to use 12 ISO, but my Camera Meter app doesn’t have that option, so ISO 6 it is.

Redscaled film generally gives the subject a high contrast orangey/red hue, but in this case the colours were really mixed up. I’m not sure whether this was because the laboratory misunderstood that the film was redscaled, and tried to produce colours that are normal for colour film, or whether this was because of the expired colour shifting of expired film. Either way, for a 20+ year-old film I was really happy with the results. I’ve posted the whole roll in an album on my Flickr, light leaks and all, if you want to see the rest of the images. 

Themes for the Lens-Artists Challenge are posted each Saturday at 12:00 noon EST (which is 4pm, GMT) and anyone who wants to take part can post their images during the week. If you want to know more about the Challenge, details can be found here, and entries can be found on the WordPress reader using the tag ‘Lens-Artists’.

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#AgfaRapid #Challenge #Expired #ExpiredFilm #LensArtists #Redscale #LensArtists #MyGoToPlaces

The cityscape of Aveiro with a tourist moliceiro boat in the foreground.
2025-04-12

Starting on 14 April is the next Folder Week, a Challenge that's new to me but is a great idea to get out some of the many folding cameras that I seem to be accumulating. The plan is to use the KW Patent Etui from the 1920s with the 118 roll film back, but worst case, the 1940s Agfa Karat could be a worthy substitute.
#LargeFormat, #Folder, #FolderWeek, #1920s, #PatentEtui, #AgfaRapid,

The cityscape of Aveiro in Portugal. In the foreground is the canal, with a tourist boat upon it. Behind are blocks of flats. The image is slightly colour shifted since Harman Phoenix film was decanted into Agfa Rapid film canisters. Taken with a 1940s Agfa Karat camera.

The #FrugalFilmProject, March 2025: Some Redscale Around Oliveira do Bairro

This month with the Golden Wonder (a.k.a the Welta Penti II, half-frame camera), we’ve something a little different. One of the things I’ve really enjoyed doing is making my own redscale film. If you’re unfamiliar, with redscale photography instead of taking photographs with the emulsion side of the film facing the subject, the film is reversed in the camera so that the image is taken through the backing layer.

Colour film is made up of three layers, each light-sensitive to a particular wavelength of colour: red, green and blue. The red layer is usually exposed to light after the blue and green layers, but with redscale film, where the light passes backwards through the film, what this means is that before it reaches the sensitive emulsion layers, light passes through the support layer and the red-sensitive layer first, leading to images with a strong red cast.

I had already prepared some Rapid canisters with Harman Phoenix for redscale exposure, which is simply feeding the film backwards into the canister (in a dark bag, of course). For exposure metering I used the Camera Meter app and rated the film at 50. For a change, just lately, the skies cleared and the sun came out, and I had a great couple of hours wandering around Oliveira. The only thing I did find, though, was that the film was a short offcut from the end of a roll of Harman Phoenix, so there was only about 8 exposures on the roll.

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#HarmanPhoenix #Agfa #AgfaRapid #FrugalFilmProject #HalfFrame #Penti2 #Rapid #RapidFilm #Redscale #Welta

A closed newspaper kiosk in Oliveira do Bairro.
2025-03-26

The Agfa Karat worked a treat! OK, the lens was full of haze, but the actual images weren't half bad ...
#AgfaRapid #Karat #HarmanPhoenix

The cityscape of Aveiro. Two people walk on a footbridge over the canal. On the right side of the frame is a light leak.
2025-03-23

Decanted some Harman Phoenix 35mm film into a couple of Rapid canisters this morning in anticipation of good weather on Tuesday. Loaded one of the canisters into the 1940s Agfa Karat.
#HarmanPhoenix #AgfaRapid

A vintage Agfa Karat camera on a crumpled black background (my dark bag). In front are two Rapid canisters loaded with Harman Phoenix film.

The #FrugalFilmProject, February 2025: Oh, I Do Like To Be Beside The Seaside

I’m getting more familiar with the Golden Wonder (a.k.a the Welta Penti II, half-frame camera), so this month, when we went to Vagueira for lunch, it was the perfect opportunity to try some half-frame Rapid film on my favourite buildings. I already have some Rapid canisters filled with Harman Phoenix, and I’m getting much better at loading the Golden Wonder, so before lunch was the perfect opportunity for a walk around the sea front. For exposure metering I used the Camera Meter app and rated the film at ISO 160. This day was a bit overcast, though. The weather has not been good for those lovely high contrast images and blue skies that just ‘pop’, but I wanted to see how Phoenix behaved on a dull day.

Before heading for the sea front I wandered around the market square, taking photos of the stunted wind-blown trees and the famous (in the local area, anyhow) sculpture of the sardine on a fork. I should add that as before, the crappy 35mm cassettes I use to transfer the Rapid films to before taking to the lab have horrible light leaks. Mind you, I do find these appealing.

I wandered along the sea front then walked back to the restaurant around the ‘block’ (like many US towns and cities, Vagueira is made up of square blocks of buildings). At tge corner of one empty block was a wonderful little metal kiosk. Long abandoned, the rusty white kiosk probably sold ice cream, or the popular Portuguese fried delicacy of Tripas. The front and back windows were covered by venetian blinds, so old they were sagging. There were still a few frames left on the roll, so I used the rest of the frames up around Aveiro.

I’ve posted the whole roll in an album on my Flickr, light leaks and all, if you want to see the rest of the images. Next month will be more of the same, but hopefully I’m going to try some half-frame redscale with Harman Phoenix. 

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#Agfa #AgfaRapid #Cassette #FrugalFilmProject #HalfFrame #Penti2 #Rapid #RapidFilm #Welta

Harman Technology release Harman Red, a redscaled version of Phoenix

This sort of thing never happens to me. Back in January I was contacted by the marketing department of Harman Technology about a new product they were launching. ‘Please don’t share the information in this mail with anyone else as we haven’t shared it yet’, read the email. Well that sounded exciting. It continued, ‘We have a new product launching, probably later this month, which will be called HARMAN RED and is a redscale version of the Phoenix 200 film.’

By coincidence I had recently redscaled some Harman Phoenix film, which came out really well. Harman had seen these images and wondered if I might be interested in trying out Harman Red. Well, of course I would! A few days later a package arrived containing some rolls of Harman Red. Typically, it’s arrival coincided with some of the most miserable weather of the year. Two storms rolled across Portugal, accompanied by wind and heavy rain, so there wasn’t much chance of going out to take some redscale photos.

When the weather briefly cleared, I rolled a twelve exposure length of Harman Red into a Rapid canister and loaded it into the new (to me) Lomo Smena SL, the Rapid film version of the 8M. As usual I used the app Camera Meter to judge the exposures and took the film on a shopping trip and ‘around the block’. Although I rated my redscaled Harman Phoenix at ISO 50, the box speed of Harman Red is ISO 125, so I chose that for the exposures of the Harman redscale film. 

When I took the film to the lab it was machine processed at 55°C and scanned. I don’t have any details of the processing and scanning, aside from the temperature, but I reckon that’s a good test of how this film will be treated in a commercial lab. I was really pleased with how the images came out. As usual with these Rapid films decanted back into 35mm cassettes there were light leaks. I had used a different 35mm cassette to my first decanted Rapid film to try to avoid the leaks, but it looks like these are all cheap and nasty cassettes. That said, I’m embracing these imperfections. You can buy light leaks presets for photo editors, or make your own, but there’s nothing like the real thing.

Harman Red was really nice to use, even decanted into Rapid canisters. I reckon that to get the best out of the emulsion it really needs a lot of light. When the sky was clear we had lovely contrasty orange and black images, but when the conditions were hazy the results were more muted. Mind you, even under these conditions I really like how the skies came out. For me, the high contrast Harman Phoenix is a fabulous emulsion, and Harman Red complements this perfectly.

Now that the film has been officially released there are more details on the Harman Technology website. ‘Depending upon the exposure and colour characteristics of a scene, images can range from strong “apocalyptic” looking bright orange and red tones to more subtle orange and green tones with delicate shadows’, is how Harman Red is described. It, ‘has a usable exposure range of EI 50 – 400. For best results we recommend shooting between EI 100 – 200 depending on scene brightness and contrast.’ Looking at the nice ‘apocalyptic’ example of a sunset, I might well expose my next roll at ISO 200. 

I was delighted with the redscaled images, and Harman Red is a great idea. After the launch, all of the early comments were really positive, and it looks like this is something people were looking for. I would say Harman Red is a great option for anyone who wants to try redscale film but doesn’t have the facilities to do so.

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#AgfaRapid #Experimental #HarmanRed #HarmanTechnology #Phoenix #Redscale #RedscaleFilmHarman #RedscalePhotography

An abandoned building taken with Harman Red.

A brief interlude: The Agfa Silette Rapid F

From 1953 until 1974 Agfa released a family of 35mm cameras known as the Silette series. A basic manual focus viewfinder camera, these came in various forms and with different features. In the early 1960s, Agfa released a Rapid film version in competition with Kodak’s introduction of instamatic film. In fact, they released three Rapid versions, the Silette Rapid I, the Rapid L, and the Rapid F.

All three Rapid cameras had the same characteristics as their 35mm counterparts, but instead of a cold shoe for an external flash, the Rapid F (and Silette F) had a small translucent window and a flip up lid into which a flash bulb could be plugged. The flash bulb was powered by a Pertrix No. 74 battery, which nowadays is no longer available, but otherwise the camera was wholly mechanical. The Agfa Rapid F has a 45mm f2.8 Agnar lens and a Parator shutter with speeds of 1/30s – 1/250s (plus B and a synchro flash speed, but I’m not sure what this is). It has a four leaf iris, with apertures from f2.8 – f22.

Being a Rapid camera, the top plate of the camera is plain with the wind-on lever on the bottom left of the body. One wind of this will push the film one frames width from the full Rapid canister on the left to the empty canister on the right. 

On the bottom of the camera is a tripod screw and the film counter, which counts down from 12 to one. When the count reaches 1, the shutter is disabled and you can only wind on to finish the film. The position of the ratchets that catch the film sprockets to move the film suggests that a leader of about 40mm of film is left outside the canister. 

My particular model, the Agfa Silette Rapid F, was picked up for 20€ from the ‘Not Passed’ category of the Kamerastore website. Although it has ‘flaws that will affect typical use’, the only thing that was wrong with this camera was that the little translucent window for the flashgun was missing. Otherwise, it was perfectly sound.

The aperture selection, shutter speed selection, and zone focusing are all set on the lens assembly. Selecting the shutter speed and aperture is quite straightforward, but the focusing confused me for a second. On the focusing ring, at the top and bottom are two arrows. Rotating the lens moves little icons on the top of the lens, a church and a mountain for infinity, a group of people for middle distance, and two heads for portrait/close up. At the same time, at the bottom of the focusing ring are shown distances in metres and feet. Choosing the right symbol, or setting the distance, should give reasonably close focus. 

As I have several Rapid canisters filled with Harman Phoenix film for the Frugal Film Project, I took one of these to use with the Agfa Silette Rapid F. Loading the Rapid F was simple enough, just a question of making sure the wind-on ratchets lined up with the sprockets of the film and slowly advancing the film so that it fed into the empty canister. Then I closed the back of the camera and shot two frames until the counter was at zero. 

It was a lovely sunny afternoon, so I took the Rapid F to Águas Boas. I took a range of images, long distance, middle distance, and close-up using the symbols on the lens and also the distance markers. To measure the exposure I used an app called Camera Meter. After exposing the film, I decanted the 35mm back into a 35mm cassette and took it to the lab. 

The first thing to say about this camera is that it’s really nice to use. All the movements are smooth, and a single wind of the lever moves the film from one frame to the next. The only thing that confused me early on was the focusing with the symbols, but even that became intuitive after a while. I was a little unsure whether the film was feeding properly into the empty canister, but there’s a different ‘feel’ to the wind on lever when film is present in the film gate and when it is not. I noticed that with the Lomo Smena SL, too.

The images came out really well, although with the high contrast Harman Phoenix emulsion some of the highlights were really blown out. I’ll put that down to my faulty exposure reading rather than the camera. On the whole, I was really happy with how the Agfa Silette Rapid F performed, and it’s certainly earned its place as a backup camera to the Welta Penti II ‘Golden Wonder’ and the Lomo Smena SL. 

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#Agfa #AgfaRapid #Canister #Experimental #HarmanPhoenix #Rapid #RapidFilm #Silette

The Agfa Silette Rapid F film camera

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