Lmst

I could have worn a bigger petticoat, but since my hat is of a slightly later end of the nineteen-oughts, I only wore the slimmer one I just made. Here with gloves also, though it was way too hot indoors for them. The jacket has so many process photos in the hashtag... I'm still not super happy with how the back and back sleeves sit, but I'll take it!

#CinnamonLinenJacket #CinnamonLinenSkirt

A dashing little full body portrait of Sini taking a step forward in the ensemble described in the first post of the thread. The geometric lines of the jacket, with two little buttons captured by the lace edging, are a nice contrast to the smooth softness of the line of the skirt. She's gazing at the camera and thus the viewer, in a light filled living room, backlit against some sheer curtains. The little dots in the veiling seem to float in mid air on the dainty veil of the hat.

Back view. The skirt falls in beautiful smooth ripples, being nearly a circle skirt at the back, and the high waist of it sits just below the hem of the jacket, a little peek of both snatched waist and black blouse peeking out. It's a rather dynamic look. The jacket back sits nicely, but is of slightly the wrong width, thus messing with how the sleeves fall... While there is plenty of range of motion, there's a bunch of bunching up at the back of sleeve, and it would look much better in motion and with arms bent at the elbow, instead of this rather like a musical number jazz hands at the side pose. Hat looks cute. Red curly hair in a messy do spills out from under it.

Side view, with another jaunty step and extension of ankle. She is looking back at the viewer again, looking rather cute in her enormous hat and round glasses. The sleeve here falls nicely, the full volume of the back of skirt is seen, and there's even a peek of sock... Which is a gray stripe and the wrong colour for the ensemble!

I have photographed the things I made! Join me for a brief thread!
Remember the #CinnamonLinenJacket and the #CinnamonLinenSkirt? Here they are, also with new slimmer petticoat and Second Largest Hat, which I never previously took any good photos of.

#HistoryBounding #HistoricalFashion #Edwardian #Sewing #Tailoring

Have been slowly sewing on the beads on the cuffs. Also: Thinking about putting these buttons here on the front? They were horrendously expensive, I've seen extraneous buttons on a lot of fashion plates from the era, and I do kind of like them... 🤔

#CinnamonLinenJacket #Sewing #HistoryBounding

A close up of one sleeve of a warm brown linen jacket with substantial black linen lace on it, and small beads being sewn onto it. The lapels, collar, shoulder and some of the front is visible in the background of the sleeve, pleasant nearly abstract geometric shapes. The lining is a darker warm brown linen, and between the lapels sits a little brass tin full of tiny little glass beads, and in front of it the very long and very thin needle the beads are sewn on with, black thread trailing from it. Sini's pale hand holds onto the sleeve cuff.

A slightly wider view of the front, which is also edged in thick lace, some 5 centimetres wide. It has its beadwork on it, already. Little clusters of black and lines of tiny tiny orange ones. It's quite sparkly. In the very front of the jacket, past the lace but still on the front, are two large ornamental buttons, black with a matte engraved-looking shape, like a flower with octopus vines or something. They happen to be almost exactly the size of the medallions or diamonds in the lace pattern, and they're set about the same distance away from each other as the motifs in the lace. It looks pretty nice? Maybe? A keyboard looms in the background, with rainbow lights.

Meanwhile, in jacket land: I've got more of the tiny tiny beads so I can finish the lapel beading, and also do it on the cuffs once I get there. Have been sewing the sleeve lining to the arm's eyes and while not complex, it's a bit boring and awkward.
Might enjoy a bit of finicky decoration for a bit, instead. 😶

#CinnamonLinenJacket #Sewing

Close up of the hand sewing process of the lining of the sleeve onto the arm's eye of a jacket, where the bodice lining has been basted onto all layers, fixing both linings in place so they don't flop around. A line of white tacking thread holds down the layers apart from the sleeve, which has been safety pinned in. Small but not exactly precise whipstitch is half way down the arm's eye scoop, pulling the layers together stitch by stitch, needle and brown thread almost matching the dark brown linen of the lining. Sini's pale fingers holding the sewing, with glittering silver rings.

Sleeve, arm's eye and pattern fitting thoughts after yesterday's trouble:
I've got the trifecta of narrow back, stooped shoulders and wide shoulders, which makes it a bitch to fit the shoulder blade region that moves around quite a lot. And any temporary change in posture means the coat or jacket needs to accommodate for that, too. Usually I can rely on the narrow waist and/or heavy skirts of the coat to pull at the side back seam, easing away some of the wrinkles.

#CinnamonLinenJacket #Sewing

Preparing the sleeves to go onto the #CinnamonLinenJacket and fighting my instincts a bit. Generally you'd but a small bias strip of linen canvas inside the cuff (or modern fusible interfacing) between the layers, to keep it round and smooth and structurally sound... But I'm a bit unsure about the length of the sleeves right now. In theory I should probably only put it in after fitting the sleeves, or not need any of it at all because the lace + beading are pretty sturdy as well... And yet.

✨ sporkleh ✨

I'm gonna be here for a while, with many many breaks to rest my hand and elbow, but it's time for the beads upon the lapel!

#Sewing #CinnamonLinenJacket

A close up photo of just the lapel and some inside of a warm brown linen jacket with black linen lace meticulously sewn onto it by hand. Mitred, the lace is wide and has a sort of diamond motif. Small glass seed beads in a subtly iridescent black are sewn in the middle and onto the corners of the diamonds, with two fully done and a third diamond with only a couple on. Currently a line of even smaller seed beads, glass and a warm orange, is being sewn into the spaces in the pattern of the lace, just along the edge. The sewing needle is very long and thin, with two strands of orange embroidery thread in its eye. Sini's pale fingers are holding onto the edge of the lapel, with many silver rings. It's currently still daylight so the photo is quite lovely. The lining of the jacket is an even finer dark brown linen, its hue reflected on the black beads.

Have pinned and tacked the lining on the #CinnamonLinenJacket and need to whipstitch some of the lining edges down, but only after I've figured out where and if I want to tuck the edges of the lace that will go on the lapels. 🤔

#Sewing

A top down photo of a warm brown linen jacket in progress upon a desk. There are no sleeves, and the arm hole openings are thus unfinished, everything else has tidied up and finished hems and such, even if its just folded down and tacked down with white basting thread for now. There is black lace with beadwork on it on the hem, making a neat geometric mitred border. The collar is black linen, nicely in contrast with the brown. The lining is a much darker warm brown, also linen. Sini's bony hand in the frame, as well as assorted desktop and crafting junk.

Victorian boning for the modern sewist:
I've put this boning into my little jacket. It's very important for closely fitting garments, but also very nice on almost any that you don't machine wash!
First photo here with it all just laid out. I like not overlapping the boning tube with the hem, and the bone should not poke you in the armpit. Other than that it was most often based on vibes and the shape of the bodice and its job is to prevent horizontal creasing and sideways wiggle.

#Sewing #CinnamonLinenJacket

A terrible quality top down photo of a little short jacket laid out on a desk, with keyboard and all under it. The innards are showing, with five little lengths of synthetic whalebone inside little sewn tubes laid out onto the side seams, side back seams and centre back seam. The shortest is the back one, the others slightly longer. The tubes are just touching the turned hem allowance of the jacket edge, and hang about above. The side back bones are on top of linen canvas reinforcement of the arm's eye.

Let's take a brief posting break from the sewing, to rest my fingies and elbow... I've sewn up the shoulder seams and put on the collar, and we have thus arrived at the point where the thing refuses to lie flat on any surface, or nicely on a hanger, since my shoulders are so asymmetrical!
Here follows some unstructured ramblings about the speed-run innards of a jacket, I guess. (1/4)

#CinnamonLinenJacket #Sewing #Tailoring

A poorly lit photo of the currently sleeveless jacket in progress, on a wooden clothes hanger, which in turn hangs on a door. It's fashion fabric is a lovely smooth warm brown linen, but it has a black linen back collar, and there's a bunch of wide black linen lace sewn onto its front edge and hem. A sort of short bolero or Eton jacket configuration. The lapel covering is missing, so there's black linen canvas with pad stitching visible, in orange brown thread. It sits ill upon the wooden hanger on the shoulder bits, as it's fitted for scoliosis and the hanger does not have scoliosis. Sini's pale hand in the frame, making one of the front edges behave for the photo.

On the list of things to do on the #CinnamonLinenJacket:
Tidying up this synthetic whalebone to put it in boning tubes, which also need to be created. Sewing on the boning inside its tubes on the inside.
Attaching the collar to the lapel and neck opening, tacking the lining and interfacing onto the whole bodice. Laying the lace on the lapel somewhere in the middle of this? Sewing the edges of all on by hand.
Won't do all of it today for sure, but this is the list.

Finished all the black bead clusters along the lace, have done maybe a third of the orange beads. Need to rest my hand and elbow for a bit, but it's progressing.

#CinnamonLinenJacket #Sewing

A daylight of the pretty striking front edge of a warm brown linen jacket in progress. On a wide black linen lace with a geometric diamond motif and sharp scalloped edges there are small clusters of five black glass seed beads sewn on. They're quite shiny. Near the edge, between spaces in the lace design, there are tiny tiny little orange glass beads in a line. They're also quite shiny, but don't stand out as much as the black beads on black, being quite small and almost the same colour as the jacket fabric, which is beautiful and fine and a deep warm tone. The uncovered rolled lapel facing shows the line of tiny stitches attaching the black lace, each scallop one by one. Sini's pale pink hand is holding the jacket.

Very slowly working on the beads upon the lace on the #CinnamonLinenJacket, with very many breaks to rest my cranky elbow. The antique glass beads have a lovely sheen of rainbow hues in the daylight, but when I kept passing by the jacket in the dark, the end table lamp made the beads glitter and shine like nothing else! Impossible to photograph, of course.

#Sewing

Two photos side by side, one in blue winter daylight, one in a directional dark indoor light, murky. In the first the little clusters of black beads with hues of wine red, blue, green and purple have a lot of variation of colour. The tiny little orange beads nestled within the lace are fairly subtle. In the darker photo each little bead has a reflected highlight like a tiny little gem, and stand out from the black of the lace. The latter is not a very good photo, but with some imagination it can be inferred that it's quite pretty. Sini's pale pink hand in the first photo, too.

You know. I think this might do it. Simple enough that I can do it eleven million times everywhere the lace goes even as a total beginner, sparkly enough to satisfy my inner magpie.

#CinnamonLinenJacket #Sewing #Embroidery

#CinnamonLinenJacket

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