Lmst

I could have worn a bigger petticoat, but since my hat is of a slightly later end of the nineteen-oughts, I only wore the slimmer one I just made. Here with gloves also, though it was way too hot indoors for them. The jacket has so many process photos in the hashtag... I'm still not super happy with how the back and back sleeves sit, but I'll take it!

#CinnamonLinenJacket #CinnamonLinenSkirt

A dashing little full body portrait of Sini taking a step forward in the ensemble described in the first post of the thread. The geometric lines of the jacket, with two little buttons captured by the lace edging, are a nice contrast to the smooth softness of the line of the skirt. She's gazing at the camera and thus the viewer, in a light filled living room, backlit against some sheer curtains. The little dots in the veiling seem to float in mid air on the dainty veil of the hat.

Back view. The skirt falls in beautiful smooth ripples, being nearly a circle skirt at the back, and the high waist of it sits just below the hem of the jacket, a little peek of both snatched waist and black blouse peeking out. It's a rather dynamic look. The jacket back sits nicely, but is of slightly the wrong width, thus messing with how the sleeves fall... While there is plenty of range of motion, there's a bunch of bunching up at the back of sleeve, and it would look much better in motion and with arms bent at the elbow, instead of this rather like a musical number jazz hands at the side pose. Hat looks cute. Red curly hair in a messy do spills out from under it.

Side view, with another jaunty step and extension of ankle. She is looking back at the viewer again, looking rather cute in her enormous hat and round glasses. The sleeve here falls nicely, the full volume of the back of skirt is seen, and there's even a peek of sock... Which is a gray stripe and the wrong colour for the ensemble!

I have photographed the things I made! Join me for a brief thread!
Remember the #CinnamonLinenJacket and the #CinnamonLinenSkirt? Here they are, also with new slimmer petticoat and Second Largest Hat, which I never previously took any good photos of.

#HistoryBounding #HistoricalFashion #Edwardian #Sewing #Tailoring

Also. Remember the #CinnamonLinenSkirt, that I finished some time ago? Originally I was planning on putting the same black lace on the hem (and I need to check but I think have enough lace for it, too) in the spirit of Late Victorian and early Edwardian more is more... But I don't know.
I think I want to, but it's also some four metres of hem to fuss the lace onto.

And just how extravagant would it be to have just the tiny orange beads tucked into the lace, where they'll be safer from wear?

I'm idly planning a little jacket from the leftovers of the #CinnamonLinenSkirt (which I've finished apart from the decoration, which I haven't yet settled on) fabric and am just pondering which year and style of sleeve I want, and how much I care about historical accuracy for something I'm making to wear and for fun... And above all, what the heck do I even want? 😆 Thus, browsing old books. It's nice.

Have been slowly attaching the hem facing to the #CinnamonLinenSkirt while listening to an eldritch podcast. My facing fabric is a bit too dense and stiff to prettily compress, even cut on bias, so I've been both pleating little tucks into it as well as taking out wedges where the joining seams of the strip are. Victorians weren't fussed about pleats, creases and such on their hem facings, and this technique is from a period sewing manual, but I'd prefer it to be as flat as possible...

#Sewing

The #CinnamonLinenSkirt hem has for sure settled so I could actually finish it and I'm not doing much else. Just cut up a bunch of bias hem facing out of some random crisp thin cotton I had lying around... Now all I have to do is even out the hem and attach the facing. I'm thinking I'll just overlock the one edge I'll be hand sewing onto the skirt itself with hem stitch because it's for wearing not for historical recreation. But overlocker loud and hem trimming scary 😶

#Sewing

#CinnamonLinenSkirt update:
This is just after one day of hung to stretch. The hem was even and it's already warped and shifted enough to no longer be even at all! Ideally I'll even out the hem in a couple of days, but this is precisely why you leave long coats, jackets and skirts to settle before you hem them.

#Sewing

A photo of the lower section of a warm brown skirt as it's hung on the upper edge of a door. There is a lot of hem and nearly none of it is level with the other bits of hem, parts of it dipping much lower or somewhat lower, as the fibres of the fabric cut on the bias relax and succumb to gravity. The door itself is clear glass in white wooden frames, and there's the unfinished sleeves of a shirt next to the skirt.

With a great deal of effort I have almost invisibly put on the waist lining on the #CinnamonLinenSkirt. Tried it on, it doesn't negatively affect anything and might indeed affect it positively... But here we are. The skirt falls nicely even sans a petticoat, which is nice. Now I just need to sew all the tacked on bits nearly invisibly!

#Sewing

A photo of the innards of a skirt, cinnamon brown in colour. There is a bunch of tacking or basting stitches in white holding different parts of the skirt, the skirt placket and a dark brown thin linen lining in place. The edge of the lining is being loosely sewn onto a seam allowance with a ladder stitch if I recall the name correctly. It's a stitch with a lot of sway and give. The placket flap that wants to fall in place on top of this is being loosely held open by Sini's pale hand. There are safety pins elsewhere on the skirt.

The view from the same spot, but the placket flap has been flipped back into place and basted down with loose tacking stitches. The top edge of it has been turned under and sewn with tiny whipstitches, and the same will follow for the already tidily hand finished edge, to join the placket and the lining where they overlap. Sini's hand holding the placket with its tidy little hooks.

Today in #CinnamonLinenSkirt - I've figured out the reduction I still need to do to the waist, and have sewn up and tacked on the waist lining... But now also need to unpick a bunch and then sew it all up again. It's not horrendously difficult, just tedious!
I hope that some eldritch horror podcast sufficiently tickles my brain as I do it. It's also cold as heck so I've donned a shawl and a Winter Bird Brooch, the latter for morale purposes.

A photo with a selfie camera, but cropped in a silly way to show just the bust, waist and upper hip of Sini, or rather her clothes and one hand resting on the waist and hip area. She's wearing a loosely folded black linen shawl, tucked into the waist of her 18th century pleated petticoat skirt, which is brown with a beige waistband. There is an enamelled Eurasian bullfinch brooch with gold details holding the front folds of the shawl closed. It has a festively bright red belly and cheek, and the branch it's depicted on has some red berries as well. It has colouring like a little black hat and beard, it's a very handsome bird and the brooch very vaguely resembles its real life version. The lighting is terrible and the closeness of the lens makes the hand look gargantuan, but the brooch is cute.

I need to take in the back darts more, but it fits well enough that you get a little clip with me wearing it! Gosh the linen moves so nicely, and I didn't fuck up the pattern drafting it seems!

#CinnamonLinenSkirt #Sewing #HistoryBounding

Today in #CinnamonLinenSkirt I put all the main skirt pieces together and now would need to try it on, with appropriate petticoat, to see if I need to increase the darts or anything else. This would of course mean taking my current clothes off for a little bit and it's cold so I don't want to. We'll see. 😶

I have accomplished the fiddliest bit of the entire #CinnamonLinenSkirt - the placket. First you sneakily sew the eyes inside the seam. (Here in the wildly shaped by a very wide gore side back seam.) Then you finish the rest of the seam, do it on the other side as well, press, baste a heck of a lot, put on the hooks as well matching points, then tidy up with another facing by hand.

#Sewing #HandSewing

Two photos side by side, showing the open and closed back placket of a brown skirt. There are seven closely spaced eyes peeking out from within a seam. The overlaid portion of the other side of the opening nearly perfectly hides the opening and only shows a tiny bit of the placket and closures. The shape of the opening is very shaped because of a large triangular gore tucked between the centre back pieces. It all lays remarkably flat and nicely despite the layers and shapes. Sini's pink hands in the frame.

A very very close-up of what the hook attachment points look like on the right side of the skirt. They are two little bits of sewing in smooth and tiny corresponding colour thread, very easily lost in the texture of the fabric. Sini's fingertips for scale. The scale is tiny.

The sewing on of the facing, still half unattached, and showing the spot where the hooks have been sewn on, onto the seam allowance and edge of the top layer of the placket. They're not incredibly tidily sewn, only sparsely whipstitched around the loops of the hook base, and much more securely in the middle and just where the hook bends on itself. Tiny sewing needle with thread in the middle of taking one teeny tiny stitch, attaching the facing. The facing itself has also been nicely finished by hand. A lone thumb holding onto the sewing.

Close up of the placket with the hooks corresponding to the eyes also on. There are two neat lines of tacking thread still on there, and everything is quite neat and contained. The facing on the placket on the hooks side has been sewn on by hand with tiny whipstitches that disappear into the fabric. Only the hooks of the hooks are visible, the messy part where the loops of them are sewn down are hidden behind the facing. Sini's fingertips in the photo. Overlocking of skirt seam allowances with black thread also in the background.

Continuing the #CinnamonLinenSkirt by working on the fiddly bits. Have hand tacked all the darts, cut out the waist lining, idly blanket stitched the placket sides and put on the eyes of the hooks & eyes while listening to a delightful horror podcast. In a very little bit I might actually do some machine sewing on the actual skirt pieces!

#Sewing

Two photos side by side of the fiddly bits of a skirt. There is a placket in cinnamon brown linen, warm and deep in hue, with the edges of it finely finished by hand in blanket stitch, in a thread nearly perfectly the same colour. The pieces are laid atop a dark brown fine linen with a scribbled SF on it, to denote side front piece. There are markings in chalk on the placket. In the next photo, the eyes have been sewn onto those marks, and have been very exactly almost covered in tiny little stitches where the metal needs to be affixed. They're sewn onto a tacked line denoting a seam, and will just peek out from it when the placket is sewn onto the skirt itself. A pair of small snips in the frame, Sini's fingertips in both photos.

Today in #CinnamonLinenSkirt land: I overlocked the skirt pieces last night and cut out two rectangles for the placket, and... That's it, until I can get the perfectly matching thread I ordered that is of course taking much longer to get to me than usual. I could probably sew some hooks and eyes onto the placket bits with not quite as matching thread because it gets hidden, but there's a lot of other things I should nominally be doing so I might not. And thus I wait.

Meanwhile, in what is to be the #CinnamonLinenSkirt I have ironed all of my hecking fabric and it's so lovely that I absolutely do want to make the skirt out of it. Will there be enough of it for it? Is my skirt pattern absolutely garbage? We'll see! It took me about 45 minutes to iron it all so it feels like there should be enough!
Relatedly, here's an old fashion illustration of what I am vaguely going for.

#Sewing #HistoryBounding

#CinnamonLinenSkirt

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