A small streetside shop sells nighttime espresso.
#leicam6ttl #leicam6 #leica #35mm #filmphotography #analogphotography #film #nyc #streetphotography #believeinfilm
#leicam6ttl
A policeman closes up a small park for the evening.
#leicam6ttl #leicam6 #leica #35mm #filmphotography #analogphotography #film #nyc #streetphotography #believeinfilm
An Oxford brown wrist strap with copper rivet is flying to its new home in the sunnier climes of California today. 😎
#leicam6 #leicam6ttl #leicam6classic #leicam6titanium #leica #leicaworld #leicacamera #leicacamerausa #leicaphotography #hawkesmill #hawkesmillbags #hawkesmillengland
Und, ja, bei max 1/1000 und Blende 16 ist immer ein ND-Filter dabei. Selbst bei 200 ASA nötig. #LeicaM6TTL.
Erste Tour mit der #LeicaM6TTL gemacht. 📷❤️ Filmwechsel um Lichtjahre einfacher als bei der M3. Das Voigtländer Ultron 35mm ist sehr filigran. Für meine Finger…. Aber ich gewöhne mich daran. #Leica #Photography
Was an der #LeicaM6TTL irritiert: Messsucher ist interhalb von ca. 70 cm nicht mehr nutzbar, obwohl das 35mm #Ultron von #Voigtländer 58 cm Naheinstellung anbietet. Mit Offenblende dürfte das in die Hose gehen. #Leica
Kamera gebraucht beim Händler gekauft. Könnte eine leichte Justage des Messuchers vertragen. Aber undramatisch. Bei meiner M3 reichte ein kurzes drehen am Schräubchen. Hier müsste dann ein CLA für 'n Tausender bei #Leica her. #LeicaM6TTL
Herausfordernd, sich wieder um Fokus, Blende und Zeit bemühen zu müssen. #Leica #LeicaM6 #LeicaM6TTL #photography #fotografie #analog #filmphotography
Ich habe es getan. #LeicaM6TTL
I'm not usually one for human interaction. Part of the reason I got into photography was so that I would have something to hide behind at social gatherings. So it's not often that I meet up with other photographers. But this past Friday night, that's exactly what I found myself doing when fellow photobloggers Mark Faulkner and Mike Eckman invited me out for drinks.
For the uninitiated, Mark is the author of The GAS Haus - an unfathomably extensive list of Mark's personal collection of film cameras with descriptions of each model. I know Mark, not only from his website but because I was his wedding photographer.
Mark Faulkner's wedding by Johnny Martyr - Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 90mm f2 Summicron E55 | Kodak Tri-X 400 | Kodak HC110b
Mike Eckman authors another camera review site wherein he describes not only the features but also history and context around each model in textbook quality detail. You may recall that Mike lent me several Leica copies some time ago which inspired a blog mini-series.
Mike Eckman and Johnny Martyr -smiling behind the masks!
The three of us met up at Smoketown Brewing Station in Frederick Maryland and the first round was on me.
Mark donned a plastic shopping bag of recent acquisitions from the local antique shops. I brought my Leica M6 TTL with 50mm 1.5 Summarit. Mike came empty-handed but was enthusiastic to take the Leica out from under my nose while I sipped on my Smoketown Gandy stout.
Through the din of live music and bar chatter, Mark went over his new Graphic 35 Jet, a peculiar American rangefinder from the early 60's with the coolest focusing control I've ever seen. You can read about them on Mike's page. Mark also scooped up a Mamiya Sekor TL. I thought I recognized the Mamiya because it was missing its hot shoe. I'd passed on both these cameras before picking up a Yashica A at the same antique mall a couple years back. It was good to know that even if I couldn't do anything with these cameras, Mark would find a good home for them. And I didn't yet realise how well this would be proven later.
As I talked to Mark, from the corner of my eye, I could see Eckman squinting behind the Leica's viewfinder. An M3 owner, Mike seemed very comfortable with the M6 TTL and verified that my viewfinder is brighter than his. Take that M3 die-hards.
Looks like Mike burned the very first shot on the roll of Kodak TMAX P3200 that was loaded.
*taken by Mike Eckman - Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
The bartender came over and explained that her teenage daughter was interested in film photography. She asked us how to get her started with it. Mike leapt into a speech so accurately and confidently delivered that I got the impression that he visits bars all across North America to inspire new shooters. Instead of trying to paraphrase his wise words, I'll just recommend that you follow Mike's media as linked throughout my blog. He's very committed and honest in all he says and posts.
Mike Eckman by Johnny Martyr - Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
After the bartender disappeared into the darkness, we started talking about the survival of film photography. Mike and Mark's websites motivate people to give vintage cameras a try. To learn to use and appreciate what's come before us. Mike pointed out that I'm unique because I actually shoot film professionally. It's not the first time he's said this and while I know that there are actually many film shooters at work, I appreciate the recognition. It's cool that we're all doing different things that inspire us and might, consequently, inspire others.
Mike talked about his recently launched podcast called Camerosity, wherein I apparently came up in conversation. Not really wanting to hear what terrible things might have been said about me, I interrupted to make it clear that one of the reasons I don't listen to many podcasts is the excessive personal banter in some. And yet here I am posting a blog nearly completely comprised of just that! But be patient, there's a cool thing about to happen and a reason that I typed this up, I swear!
Mark Faulkner by Johnny Martyr - Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
And that cool thing was about to happen. I guess that an epiphany struck Mark as we were talking. He called the bartender over and pulled the Mamiya out of his bag. Mark explained that he'd like to give it to her daughter. The bartender was astounded. I couldn't help but get caught up in the moment so I pulled a roll of Tri-X from my pocket to contribute some fire to the torch that Mark was passing on.
Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
A few moments later, a very excited teenager appeared. Mark kindly showed her how to load the Mamiya and gave her a quick prepper on use. Soon her dad came over and thanked us profusely also. Photo-nerds for the win!
And guess what? I was off the hook for paying for drinks too; they were on the house as a thank-you.
So I ordered another Gandy stout. And took a photo of it.
Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
There may be all kinds of online, in-community bickering over this camera and film or that. Mike may get angry DM's about how irresponsible it was for him to exclude some faint bit of historical minutia in a review. I may be a shitty photographer. And Mark, well Mark may well just have a buying problem! We practice photography in different ways with different gear and different intentions and outcomes. But at the core of it all, we care deeply about film photography. And this little bar excursion reminded me of all the things that I love about film photography and our diverse and interesting community. Let's keep it going everyone!
Thanks for reading and happy shooting!
_Follow, Favorite, Like, Add, Insult, ContactJohnny Martyr _
#filmphotography #frederickmd #kids #kodak #leica #martyrmusings #bar #cameracollecting #camerositypodcast #chat #conversation #drinks #film #filmblogs #filmcameras #frederickmaryland #geeks #kodakhc110 #kodaktmax #kodaktmaxp3200 #kodaktrix #leicam6ttl #leitz5cm15summarit #leitzsummarit #mamiya #markfaulkner #mikeeckman #mikeeckmancom #nerds #photography #smoketownbrewing #smoketownbrewingstation #studentphotographer #talk #vintagecameras
The Leica M6 is probably one of the most desired film camera but for many people shooting with a rangefinder is something new. With that come many questions and some of them that you can't really anticipate without having one in hands for some time.
It's been 4 years that I use mine regularly so I thought it could be interesting to share with you my little experience with this camera and answer the 10 most frequently asked question about the M6.
I've divided this article in two sections with a first part focused on practical and factual questions while the second part is more about opinion and advices. If you're looking for an answer to a specific question, use the Table of Contents below so you can skip all the boring parts.
Leica M6 Practical questions
What Is The Leica M6?
The Leica M6 is a rangefinder film camera. It's a manual focus and mechanical camera without any automatic features. The only electronic part is for the built-in light meter. Shutter speeds go from 1 to 1/1000 th of second. There's also a bulb mode if needed. The ISO range goes from the 6 to 6400 ISO and it has a hot shoe flash synced to 1/50th sec.
Best Leica M6 Finder Magnification: 0.58x, 0.72x or 0.85x?
This is a big deal and I want to start right off with the finder because it is the most important factor to consider when buying an M6 or a rangefinder in general. Choosing the right finder is essential to suit your style of shooting and preferred focal lengths.
The most common finder you'll encounter is the 0.72x— but there are also finders with a 0.58x or 0.85x magnification and each of them are suited for different set of focal lengths.
- 0.72x Finder: This is the standard finder comes with 3 sets of frame lines pairs so 6 different focal lengths in total, which are the: 28-90, 35-135 and 50-75.
- 0.85x Finder: On this one you loose the 28mm and get the 35-135, 50-75 and a stand-alone 90 frame. If you like shooting with longer lenses this could be a good option for you.
- 0.58x Finder: Here you loose the 135mm but get extra space around the widest 28mm frame and comes with the following pairs: 28-90, 50-75, and a stand-alone 35mm frame.
The first version of the M6 which is referred as the "M6 Classic" came with a 0.72x finder. Apparently some of the Classics can also be found with a 0.85x finder but most of the time you will find the alternative finders on the M6 TTL.
If you want to use a focal length that doesn't fall on any of these tramlines, you would have to rely on an external viewfinder to compose the shot and use the main finder to focus and get the meter reading. This complicates a bit the shooting experience in my opinion.
For longer focal you'll see some lenses with googles attached to it but they are not ideal because they tend to be heavy and if you're shooting handled, it can be a little uncomfortable so better choosing the right finder first that fix it later.
Does The Leica M6 Have A Light Meter?
Yes, the M6 was the first Leica camera with a built-in LED light meter. It takes x2 LR44 batteries to operate and is activated when you half press the shutter release. To make sure the meter reading is accurate, set the correct ISO on the back panel. Press and turn the wheel until it matches your film's ISO. If you want to push or pull film, there's no exposure compensation on this camera so simply set it to the desired film sensitivity.
How To Load Film In The Leica M6 (or M4, M4-2, M7, MP, MA)
Loading a Leica M6 is quite different than a SLR or earlier Leicas like the M3. On the M6 you have to remove the bottom plate, open the flip cover and slide the film right inside by making sure the film tip reaches the center of the take-up spool. Close the cover and lock the bottom plate to automatically align the film and engaged it in the gears. Wind 2 times and make sure that you see the rewind knob turning when you wind the film. If it doesn't move, you film is not properly engaged.
Is Leica M6 Weatherproof?
The short answer is NO. The M6 is not weather sealed but Leica M have been the cameras of choice for many photo journalists. They took their cameras on many perilous adventures around the globe and have been exposed to really tough grounds. So don't worry too much if your Leica gets a little wet. If it's salty water make sure to clean thoroughly to avoid corrosion. This is not related to the camera but using a UV filter can also help preventing moisture getting inside your lens.
What Are The Differences Between The Leica M6 Classic & TTL?
At first glance, there's not much difference between those two but if you look at the TTL top plate, the first thing you'll notice is the bigger, and easier to reach, shutter speed dial. If you can afford the extra bucks, the TTL is easier to use and the dial rotation matches the light meter arrows direction inside the viewfinder. On the M6 Classic the arrow points towards one direction but you have to spin the shutter speed dial on the opposite direction to get the correct exposure. Even after 4 years it still confuses me so I prefer the TTL for that reason.
I forgot to include that part on my video review but there's a slight difference on how the meter works between the M6 Classic and TLL version. On the Classic you 2 LEDs arrows pointing in different directions depending if you're under or over exposed. When the exposure is correct both arrows are lit up.
Leica M6 Classic vs TTL Lightmeter.Source
On the TTL you have an extra LED dot between both arrows which lits up when exposure is spot on. In my opinion it's a little more intuitive and either to read.
Opinion & Advice
Which Leica M6 Is The Best? Classic VS TTL
This is really a matter of personal preference and there's no right answer here. In my case, I prefer is the M6 TTL with the 0.72x finder. I find the light meter more intuitive and the shutter speed dial easier to adjust. On the M6 Classic it takes a little more effort with the finger to change the speed but it's just me being spoiled. The M6 Classic is perfectly fine to use but if you want a little more confort and can afford the extra cost, then go for a TTL version.
There's also the finder magnification factor to consider depending on which type of lenses you use the most. Most of Leica M photographers live with a 35mm lens attached to their camera and prefer the 0.72x finder but some will only swear by the 0.58x or 0.85x finders. Again just a matter of which focal length you're shooting the most often.
Another difference is the TTL capability that is important if you're planing to shoot with a flash.
What Makes A Leica M6 The Best Camera For Street Photography?
It's all about the rangefinder. On a SLR camera you're seing though the lens but on a rangefinder you're looking at the scene through a deported window. This allows you to see outside the frame and anticipate elements coming in. The extra space around also help seing the bigger picture if I may say and fine tune your composition. Just remember that depending on the lens you use and your finder magnification, you will see more or lens space around the frame. For example, on the 0.72x finder with a 28mm lens, you have almost no space around the frame. The ideal focal in this case is the 35mm because it has enough room around but you still get a pretty large frame to compose your shot.
Rangefinder cameras and lenses also tend to be smaller and quieter than SLR equivalents. This is because there's no mirror behind the lens back element is closer to the film's surface. The trade-off is that all Leica M lenses are manual focus only but you can easily overcome this limitation by using zone focusing to determine a range that you want in focus. Most street photographers will zone focus and always be ready for the shot. This beats any autofocus camera. Head to this article for more info about [What Is& How To Use Zone Focusing?](https://onfilmonly.com/how-to-sunny-16-zone-focus-on-leica-m3-rangefinder/#What_Is_How_To_Use_Zone_Focusing)
How Much Cost A Leica M6?
in 2020 a Leica M6 Classic in good condition goes for approximately 1500€ whereas a TTL is more around 2000€. This is for the normal version but prices can go a lot higher for limited series that Leica has the secret off!
Keep in mind that a M6 requires a CLA (Clean, Lubricate & Adjust) about every 10 years and cost in average 300 to 500€, depending on who's servicing your camera. Leica parts are also expensive and require the right skills and tools to be changed so don't be tempted to buy a cheaper one that needs some sort of repairs.
I recently bumped the review knob on my M6 and realised that it's going to cost me a half leg getting it replaced because the internal axis is also probably bent
Is The Leica M6 Worth It?
The question should the other way around: Are you worth a Leica M6? When I made my permanent move to film and sold all my digital equipment I was with a pretty good load of cash in my hands and figured why not buying an M6. After years of shooting with SLR I didn't anticipate all the differences between those two worlds and it took me a while getting used to it. We are animals of habits and we tend to get a little on the fence when these habits are changed. At first I was a little confused and didn't appreciate it to its real value.
If you've never shot a rangefinder camera before, try borrowing one and shoot at least a roll with and see how the rangefinder system works for you. Once you're certain this is the right tool for you, then YES the Leica M6 is definitely worth it. These cameras are almost unbreakable and require very little maintenance. Again apart from the electronic light meter, this is a purely mechanical camera that will outlast all of us.
They can also be a very good investment as their value keep going up every year and if you don't abuse of it, an M6 will never loose value.
Best Leica M6 Alternatives?
There are many good alternatives to the Leica M6 but it all comes down to you budget and what you expect from your camera.
I've picked a few camera from my stash that have the most in common with the M6 but still bring something different to the table and that can fit smaller budgets.
Leica M3
The M3 was the first and probably most successful model of the M series. It's 100% mechanical and doesn't have a light meter. Some of the most significant innovations of the M3 were the combination of viewfinder and rangefinder patch into one the same window, the now famous bayonet Leica M mount(earlier Leica's were using screw mount lenses), and quick film advance lever.
What makes the M3 unique is the 0.91x viewfinder which fits a bright and large 50mm frame line but that's as wide as it can go so if you plan on shooting with wider lenses, I'd stay away from the M3.
Contax T
The most pocketable rangefinder, a stellar 38mm Carl Zeiss lens, Aperture Priority mode and a sleek design by Porsche. The Contax T is a great all-round camera that you can fit in your pocket and get a fairly similar shooting experience than the M6. I truly love mine and you can see my review of the Contax T here.
Rollei 35S
Similar in size to the Contax T but a completely difference philosophy. The Rollei 35S is similar to the M6 in a sense that's also a mechanical camera and use a battery to power the light meter. It has an absurdly good 40mm lens but there's no rangefinder, and you can only zone focus with this camera. Honestly, if it wouldn't be for that, the 35S would be always with me.
Contax G2
The G2 was more a competitor of the Leica M7 but is also aimed at photographers would appreciate a little help from the camera from time to time. The Contax G2 is an autofocus camera based on a rangefinder system.
The Contax G lens line-up is one of best ever made even with today's standards. I absolutely love my G2 it's one of the cameras I shoot the most.
Apart from these options, the most notorious alternative to the M6 would be the Voigtlander Bessa series or the Zeiss Ikon ZM which seems to be a fantastic rangefinder but never had the chance to use one.
Leica and the Big Shutter Speed Dial Reversal
Leica is a funny camera brand. For many reasons. But one of the reasons is the company's vehement refusal to make significant changes to their products in any conventional amount of time. Often, no matter how much people complain or demand change, Leica model after Leica model remain nearly identical to the previous, sporting only very nuanced, deliberate, incremental updates.
And because Leica photographers have grown accustom to and content with this snail pace of evolution, some folks completely lose their minds at those pivotal moments when certain changes are finally made.
A great example is the Leica M5 of 1971. It was the most technologically advanced and arguably smartest camera design that Leica rolled out since the 1954 M3 and the 1925 Leica I. But the M5 was so wildly unpopular due to numerous deviations from the original Leica rangefinder style that it nearly took the company bankrupt and spawned a revision to the previous M4 model to tide photographers over until the release of the M6 in 1984 could put everything back on track again.
I'd like to talk about another head-spinning change that Leica sort of flip-flopped on before committing to - the reversal of the direction of the rotation of the shutter speed dial.
From 1925 to 1998, the shutter speed dial on all Leica cameras was about the same diameter (except the M5) and rotated clockwise to faster speeds. On knob-wind Leicas, the photographer has to advance the film, pull the SS dial up with the thumb and forefinger, rotate it to the desired position and drop it back down to lock in the speed. With M rangefinders, the SS no longer needed to be lifted up and dropped down but is usually still operated with thumb and forefinger. It's a little cumbersome to make this adjustment while keeping ones eye on the viewfinder. So you'll often see film photographers dropping the camera down off their face, looking at the SS dial, changing it and then putting the camera back to their eye. Not just Leica, but nearly all fully manual 35mm cameras.
Then came the M6 TTL of 1998 and M7 of 2002. The shutter speed dials on these otherwise conventional-looking Leica M bodies were larger, similar to the M5 in concept. The larger diameter made the SS dial flush with the front panel of the camera, allowing the photographer to adjust speeds with the forefinger only, without any need to remove the eye from the finder. Not only this but the direction of the shutter speed dial was reversed for the first time since the Leica was created. Rotation was now clockwise to slower speeds.
This change took place over two decades ago and some photographers are STILL complaining about it. People complained about it so much that when the successors of the M7, the MP and M-A were designed, Leica restored the size and direction of the shutter speed dials to their previous convention.
So why did Leica do this, and why should we care?
It was all in service to another mind-blowing change to Leica cameras - the light meter.
The introduction of a built-in light meter revealed a basic flaw in the seemingly irrefutable logic of Leica's controls - the aperture control and shutter control rotated in opposite directions. Before the M6 TTL, to admit more light using aperture, the photographer rotated the ring to the right but to admit more light using shutter, the photographer rotates the shutter dial to the left.
Your fingers of course just adapt to the camera and nobody cared about this contradiction until they were looking at a fully coupled light meter. In order to integrate a light meter that maintained Leica's legacy of perfect ergonomics, something would have to change. Rather than change the rotation of the aperture on all new lenses and limiting their use/appeal with older cameras, Leica wisely (in my opinion) chose to reverse the direction of the shutter speed on new cameras.
While the protests of meter-free veteran film photographers won out with the MP and M-A, Leica did take a cue from the M6 TTL and M7 when they launched their first digital M, the M8 of 2006 by retaining that large diameter, reverse-rotating shutter speed dial. And the feature has been conserved for each digital M since.
The results of all this controversy over seemingly trite details?
If you shoot digital Leica's, you might consider running an M6 TTL or M7 alongside your digital M.
And if you shoot only film Leica's you might consider avoiding the M6 TTL and M7, or doubling down on shooting ONLY M6 TTL and M7.
For me, I run an M6 TTL and an LTM Leica together and find that there are enough differences between bodies that the difference in SS dial direction is irrelevant. This may be the case for hybrid digital/film shooters too. For other shooters I talk to, they don't even mind the difference and shoot an M6 TTL and an MP, for example, alongside one another very comfortably.
What Leica cameras do you use together? Does the direction of the shutter speed dial have any affect on your muscle memory or not? How ridiculous is it that I've written a whole blog about the direction of the shutter speed dial?
Thanks for reading and happy shooting!
_Follow, Favorite, Like, Add, Insult, ContactJohnny Martyr _
#filmphotography #leica #martyrmusings #tipstricksadvice #35mmfilm #35mmleica #controls #design #digital #digitalleica #direction #ergonomics #feature #filmleica #haptics #leicadesign #leicafeatures #leicahistory #leicam10 #leicam5 #leicam6ttl #leicam7 #leicam8 #leicam9 #manualcamera #reversal #reverse #shutter #shutterspeed #shutterspeeddial #whichleicatobuy
Leica and the Big Shutter Speed Dial Reversal
Leica is a funny camera brand. For many reasons. But one of the reasons is the company's vehement refusal to make significant changes to their products in any conventional amount of time. Often, no matter how much people complain or demand change, Leica model after Leica model remain nearly identical to the previous, sporting only very nuanced, deliberate, incremental updates.
And because Leica photographers have grown accustom to and content with this snail pace of evolution, some folks completely lose their minds at those pivotal moments when certain changes are finally made.
A great example is the Leica M5 of 1971. It was the most technologically advanced and arguably smartest camera design that Leica rolled out since the 1954 M3 and the 1925 Leica I. But the M5 was so wildly unpopular due to numerous deviations from the original Leica rangefinder style that it nearly took the company bankrupt and spawned a revision to the previous M4 model to tide photographers over until the release of the M6 in 1984 could put everything back on track again.
I'd like to talk about another head-spinning change that Leica sort of flip-flopped on before committing to - the reversal of the direction of the rotation of the shutter speed dial.
From 1925 to 1998, the shutter speed dial on all Leica cameras was about the same diameter (except the M5) and rotated clockwise to faster speeds. On knob-wind Leicas, the photographer has to advance the film, pull the SS dial up with the thumb and forefinger, rotate it to the desired position and drop it back down to lock in the speed. With M rangefinders, the SS no longer needed to be lifted up and dropped down but is usually still operated with thumb and forefinger. It's a little cumbersome to make this adjustment while keeping ones eye on the viewfinder. So you'll often see film photographers dropping the camera down off their face, looking at the SS dial, changing it and then putting the camera back to their eye. Not just Leica, but nearly all fully manual 35mm cameras.
Then came the M6 TTL of 1998 and M7 of 2002. The shutter speed dials on these otherwise conventional-looking Leica M bodies were larger, similar to the M5 in concept. The larger diameter made the SS dial flush with the front panel of the camera, allowing the photographer to adjust speeds with the forefinger only, without any need to remove the eye from the finder. Not only this but the direction of the shutter speed dial was reversed for the first time since the Leica was created. Rotation was now clockwise to slower speeds.
This change took place over two decades ago and some photographers are STILL complaining about it. People complained about it so much that when the successors of the M7, the MP and M-A were designed, Leica restored the size and direction of the shutter speed dials to their previous convention.
So why did Leica do this, and why should we care?
It was all in service to another mind-blowing change to Leica cameras - the light meter.
The introduction of a built-in light meter revealed a basic flaw in the seemingly irrefutable logic of Leica's controls - the aperture control and shutter control rotated in opposite directions. Before the M6 TTL, to admit more light using aperture, the photographer rotated the ring to the right but to admit more light using shutter, the photographer rotates the shutter dial to the left.
Your fingers of course just adapt to the camera and nobody cared about this contradiction until they were looking at a fully coupled light meter. In order to integrate a light meter that maintained Leica's legacy of perfect ergonomics, something would have to change. Rather than change the rotation of the aperture on all new lenses and limiting their use/appeal with older cameras, Leica wisely (in my opinion) chose to reverse the direction of the shutter speed on new cameras.
While the protests of meter-free veteran film photographers won out with the MP and M-A, Leica did take a cue from the M6 TTL and M7 when they launched their first digital M, the M8 of 2006 by retaining that large diameter, reverse-rotating shutter speed dial. And the feature has been conserved for each digital M since.
The results of all this controversy over seemingly trite details?
If you shoot digital Leica's, you might consider running an M6 TTL or M7 alongside your digital M.
And if you shoot only film Leica's you might consider avoiding the M6 TTL and M7, or doubling down on shooting ONLY M6 TTL and M7.
For me, I run an M6 TTL and an LTM Leica together and find that there are enough differences between bodies that the difference in SS dial direction is irrelevant. This may be the case for hybrid digital/film shooters too. For other shooters I talk to, they don't even mind the difference and shoot an M6 TTL and an MP, for example, alongside one another very comfortably.
What Leica cameras do you use together? Does the direction of the shutter speed dial have any affect on your muscle memory or not? How ridiculous is it that I've written a whole blog about the direction of the shutter speed dial?
Thanks for reading and happy shooting!
_Follow, Favorite, Like, Add, Insult, ContactJohnny Martyr _
#filmphotography #leica #martyrmusings #tipstricksadvice #35mmfilm #35mmleica #controls #design #digital #digitalleica #direction #ergonomics #feature #filmleica #haptics #leicadesign #leicafeatures #leicahistory #leicam10 #leicam5 #leicam6ttl #leicam7 #leicam8 #leicam9 #manualcamera #reversal #reverse #shutter #shutterspeed #shutterspeeddial #whichleicatobuy
Mailing out cameras and lenses for maintenance can a harrowing experience.
On one hand, I'm excited to get equipment back to 100% but on the other, I get so nervous about loss or damage in the mail. Or just plain bad news from the repairer. And then, of course, I can't keep using the camera while it's gone, which is a real issue for one that I use frequently.
A while back, I was fiddling with my rangefinders and noticed that my M6 TTL was giving slightly different close focus measurements than my other cameras. I mounted a few different lenses and focused on a few different objects at different distances, hoping that I was mistaken. But it didn't take long to verify that yes, the focus on the M6 had drifted.
I wasn't totally surprised because my toddler had accidently dropped the camera onto a concrete floor recently and I haven't had it serviced since Don Goldberg upgraded the viewfinder about 7 years ago. Probably many hundreds of rolls have been through it since. And there were other drops too!
Because business has been slow during the pandemic and mailing out gear stresses me out, I've just shot the M6 TTL stopped down and ignored the inaccuracy. But I recently I booked, what I expect to be an awesome wedding and certainly need one of my favorite cameras to document it.
Worried that it couldn't be serviced in time, I contacted Don Goldberg straight away and explained that I needed the camera returned in a few weeks so as to check it before my shoot.
I bit my fingernails for the four days it took to for the M6 to ship via insured USPS Priority service from Maryland to Wisconsin. Sure enough though, I mailed it Friday and I got the notification that Don received my camera last Monday. I considered writing to Don to verify that aliens didn't abduct him and sign for my Leica, which, they would naturally dismantle and destroy in some cartoonic Mars Attacks type insanity.
Then I figured, eh, don't bother the guy with my personal paranoia!
But suddenly, only hours after USPS marked the package as delivered, Don emailed me to tell me that the camera was done! WOW!
Don originally quoted me $65 to calibrate the rangefinder. He found that the high shutter speeds were also a little off so he adjusted them as well. He said that he re-lubed what he could. I take this to mean that he didn't re-lube the whole camera, just what he had access to while while doing the other work. Which is fine. All of that, on top of unexpectedly fast work and Don only added another $15 to my total! Needless to say, I tipped him for the effort.
I got the M6 back today, just a little more than a week since I mailed it out, and am pretty damn excited.
The viewfinder, framelines and patch are crisp and clean and appear to be accurate now. The shutter speed dial and advance feel noticeably smoother. It's hard to be sure, but I do think that 500 and 1000 sound ever so slightly tighter/quicker also. You can really feel a difference in a camera that's just been relubricated, like driving my car after a tune-up. It will be fun to go burn a roll of wide open test shots now!
It seems that my paranoid nightmares did not materialize. Honestly, I've had the most trouble with official Nikon repair shops than I have with small, one-man operations like DAG as he is famously nicknamed. If you are sitting on some Leica or rangefinder gear that needs to be sent out, check out my list of trusted repair shops. Don't make anymore excuses! Stop procrastinating!
It's all really amazing when you think about it.
We live in a culture where, at the first sign of trouble, most devices that have any age to them are simply replaced with something newer - the parts, effort or continued usefulness of the device deemed disproportionate to the benefits of an upgrade. And the stuff we buy is seldom an investment in and of itself, not made to be anything but trash tomorrow. We dispose of so much stuff and make so much work for ourselves learning to use new stuff and to pay for it both monetarily and environmentally. Yet film photographers are privileged enough to still be able to call on these amazing, professional repair folks like Mr. Goldberg to keep our old cameras working like new, serving our muscle memory and allowing us to forestall reinventing the wheel.
It's really pretty amazing. My clients and I will be safe in the knowledge that my 22 year old camera has a new lease on life (and a 6 month warranty on the work done). The Leica M6 remains relevant and capable. So do two small businesses. Good vibes all the way around.
Thanks for reading and happy shooting!
_Follow, Favorite, Like, Add, Insult, ContactJohnny Martyr _
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The Leica M6 is probably one of the most desired film camera but for many people shooting with a rangefinder is something new. With that come many questions and some of them that you can't really anticipate without having one in hands for some time.
It's been 4 years that I use mine regularly so I thought it could be interesting to share with you my little experience with this camera and answer the 10 most frequently asked question about the M6.
I've divided this article in two sections with a first part focused on practical and factual questions while the second part is more about opinion and advices. If you're looking for an answer to a specific question, use the Table of Contents below so you can skip all the boring parts.
Leica M6 Practical questions
What Is The Leica M6?
The Leica M6 is a rangefinder film camera. It's a manual focus and mechanical camera without any automatic features. The only electronic part is for the built-in light meter. Shutter speeds go from 1 to 1/1000 th of second. There's also a bulb mode if needed. The ISO range goes from the 6 to 6400 ISO and it has a hot shoe flash synced to 1/50th sec.
Best Leica M6 Finder Magnification: 0.58x, 0.72x or 0.85x?
This is a big deal and I want to start right off with the finder because it is the most important factor to consider when buying an M6 or a rangefinder in general. Choosing the right finder is essential to suit your style of shooting and preferred focal lengths.
The most common finder you'll encounter is the 0.72x— but there are also finders with a 0.58x or 0.85x magnification and each of them are suited for different set of focal lengths.
- 0.72x Finder: This is the standard finder comes with 3 sets of frame lines pairs so 6 different focal lengths in total, which are the: 28-90, 35-135 and 50-75.
- 0.85x Finder: On this one you loose the 28mm and get the 35-135, 50-75 and a stand-alone 90 frame. If you like shooting with longer lenses this could be a good option for you.
- 0.58x Finder: Here you loose the 135mm but get extra space around the widest 28mm frame and comes with the following pairs: 28-90, 50-75, and a stand-alone 35mm frame.
The first version of the M6 which is referred as the "M6 Classic" came with a 0.72x finder. Apparently some of the Classics can also be found with a 0.85x finder but most of the time you will find the alternative finders on the M6 TTL.
If you want to use a focal length that doesn't fall on any of these tramlines, you would have to rely on an external viewfinder to compose the shot and use the main finder to focus and get the meter reading. This complicates a bit the shooting experience in my opinion.
For longer focal you'll see some lenses with googles attached to it but they are not ideal because they tend to be heavy and if you're shooting handled, it can be a little uncomfortable so better choosing the right finder first that fix it later.
Does The Leica M6 Have A Light Meter?
Yes, the M6 was the first Leica camera with a built-in LED light meter. It takes x2 LR44 batteries to operate and is activated when you half press the shutter release. To make sure the meter reading is accurate, set the correct ISO on the back panel. Press and turn the wheel until it matches your film's ISO. If you want to push or pull film, there's no exposure compensation on this camera so simply set it to the desired film sensitivity.
How To Load Film In The Leica M6 (or M4, M4-2, M7, MP, MA)
Loading a Leica M6 is quite different than a SLR or earlier Leicas like the M3. On the M6 you have to remove the bottom plate, open the flip cover and slide the film right inside by making sure the film tip reaches the center of the take-up spool. Close the cover and lock the bottom plate to automatically align the film and engaged it in the gears. Wind 2 times and make sure that you see the rewind knob turning when you wind the film. If it doesn't move, you film is not properly engaged.
Is Leica M6 Weatherproof?
The short answer is NO. The M6 is not weather sealed but Leica M have been the cameras of choice for many photo journalists. They took their cameras on many perilous adventures around the globe and have been exposed to really tough grounds. So don't worry too much if your Leica gets a little wet. If it's salty water make sure to clean thoroughly to avoid corrosion. This is not related to the camera but using a UV filter can also help preventing moisture getting inside your lens.
What Are The Differences Between The Leica M6 Classic & TTL?
At first glance, there's not much difference between those two but if you look at the TTL top plate, the first thing you'll notice is the bigger, and easier to reach, shutter speed dial. If you can afford the extra bucks, the TTL is easier to use and the dial rotation matches the light meter arrows direction inside the viewfinder. On the M6 Classic the arrow points towards one direction but you have to spin the shutter speed dial on the opposite direction to get the correct exposure. Even after 4 years it still confuses me so I prefer the TTL for that reason.
I forgot to include that part on my video review but there's a slight difference on how the meter works between the M6 Classic and TLL version. On the Classic you 2 LEDs arrows pointing in different directions depending if you're under or over exposed. When the exposure is correct both arrows are lit up.
Leica M6 Classic vs TTL Lightmeter.Source
On the TTL you have an extra LED dot between both arrows which lits up when exposure is spot on. In my opinion it's a little more intuitive and either to read.
Opinion & Advice
Which Leica M6 Is The Best? Classic VS TTL
This is really a matter of personal preference and there's no right answer here. In my case, I prefer is the M6 TTL with the 0.72x finder. I find the light meter more intuitive and the shutter speed dial easier to adjust. On the M6 Classic it takes a little more effort with the finger to change the speed but it's just me being spoiled. The M6 Classic is perfectly fine to use but if you want a little more confort and can afford the extra cost, then go for a TTL version.
There's also the finder magnification factor to consider depending on which type of lenses you use the most. Most of Leica M photographers live with a 35mm lens attached to their camera and prefer the 0.72x finder but some will only swear by the 0.58x or 0.85x finders. Again just a matter of which focal length you're shooting the most often.
Another difference is the TTL capability that is important if you're planing to shoot with a flash.
What Makes A Leica M6 The Best Camera For Street Photography?
It's all about the rangefinder. On a SLR camera you're seing though the lens but on a rangefinder you're looking at the scene through a deported window. This allows you to see outside the frame and anticipate elements coming in. The extra space around also help seing the bigger picture if I may say and fine tune your composition. Just remember that depending on the lens you use and your finder magnification, you will see more or lens space around the frame. For example, on the 0.72x finder with a 28mm lens, you have almost no space around the frame. The ideal focal in this case is the 35mm because it has enough room around but you still get a pretty large frame to compose your shot.
Rangefinder cameras and lenses also tend to be smaller and quieter than SLR equivalents. This is because there's no mirror behind the lens back element is closer to the film's surface. The trade-off is that all Leica M lenses are manual focus only but you can easily overcome this limitation by using zone focusing to determine a range that you want in focus. Most street photographers will zone focus and always be ready for the shot. This beats any autofocus camera. Head to this article for more info about [What Is& How To Use Zone Focusing?](https://onfilmonly.com/how-to-sunny-16-zone-focus-on-leica-m3-rangefinder/#What_Is_How_To_Use_Zone_Focusing)
How Much Cost A Leica M6?
in 2020 a Leica M6 Classic in good condition goes for approximately 1500€ whereas a TTL is more around 2000€. This is for the normal version but prices can go a lot higher for limited series that Leica has the secret off!
Keep in mind that a M6 requires a CLA (Clean, Lubricate & Adjust) about every 10 years and cost in average 300 to 500€, depending on who's servicing your camera. Leica parts are also expensive and require the right skills and tools to be changed so don't be tempted to buy a cheaper one that needs some sort of repairs.
I recently bumped the review knob on my M6 and realised that it's going to cost me a half leg getting it replaced because the internal axis is also probably bent
Is The Leica M6 Worth It?
The question should the other way around: Are you worth a Leica M6? When I made my permanent move to film and sold all my digital equipment I was with a pretty good load of cash in my hands and figured why not buying an M6. After years of shooting with SLR I didn't anticipate all the differences between those two worlds and it took me a while getting used to it. We are animals of habits and we tend to get a little on the fence when these habits are changed. At first I was a little confused and didn't appreciate it to its real value.
If you've never shot a rangefinder camera before, try borrowing one and shoot at least a roll with and see how the rangefinder system works for you. Once you're certain this is the right tool for you, then YES the Leica M6 is definitely worth it. These cameras are almost unbreakable and require very little maintenance. Again apart from the electronic light meter, this is a purely mechanical camera that will outlast all of us.
They can also be a very good investment as their value keep going up every year and if you don't abuse of it, an M6 will never loose value.
Best Leica M6 Alternatives?
There are many good alternatives to the Leica M6 but it all comes down to you budget and what you expect from your camera.
I've picked a few camera from my stash that have the most in common with the M6 but still bring something different to the table and that can fit smaller budgets.
Leica M3
The M3 was the first and probably most successful model of the M series. It's 100% mechanical and doesn't have a light meter. Some of the most significant innovations of the M3 were the combination of viewfinder and rangefinder patch into one the same window, the now famous bayonet Leica M mount(earlier Leica's were using screw mount lenses), and quick film advance lever.
What makes the M3 unique is the 0.91x viewfinder which fits a bright and large 50mm frame line but that's as wide as it can go so if you plan on shooting with wider lenses, I'd stay away from the M3.
Contax T
The most pocketable rangefinder, a stellar 38mm Carl Zeiss lens, Aperture Priority mode and a sleek design by Porsche. The Contax T is a great all-round camera that you can fit in your pocket and get a fairly similar shooting experience than the M6. I truly love mine and you can see my review of the Contax T here.
Rollei 35S
Similar in size to the Contax T but a completely difference philosophy. The Rollei 35S is similar to the M6 in a sense that's also a mechanical camera and use a battery to power the light meter. It has an absurdly good 40mm lens but there's no rangefinder, and you can only zone focus with this camera. Honestly, if it wouldn't be for that, the 35S would be always with me.
Contax G2
The G2 was more a competitor of the Leica M7 but is also aimed at photographers would appreciate a little help from the camera from time to time. The Contax G2 is an autofocus camera based on a rangefinder system.
The Contax G lens line-up is one of best ever made even with today's standards. I absolutely love my G2 it's one of the cameras I shoot the most.
Apart from these options, the most notorious alternative to the M6 would be the Voigtlander Bessa series or the Zeiss Ikon ZM which seems to be a fantastic rangefinder but never had the chance to use one.
These Photos Were Processed In Kodak’s New HC110 In Spite of The Product’s Single Flaw
In early 2019, the film community was pretty stressed out, and with good reason. The nearly two century old chemical manufacturer, Tetenal appeared close to shutting down. Many photographers have probably never even heard of this company, but Tetenal has been "the man behind the curtain" for many of Kodak's products for decades.
The product that Tetenal made that is close to the heart of my work was Kodak HC110, a classic, flexible b&w film developer that is ideal for producing high acutance negatives and push processing while retaining detail.
The possibility of running out of HC110 and having to adopt a new go-to developer was a scary proposition with paid photography work lined up for 2019. Though I'm not a fan of panic-buying, I decided to stock up on Catalog #501-0541 HC110 to get in front of any shortages.
I breathed a sigh of relief when, before the end of 2019, Kodak released a new HC110 formula to address the Tetenal supply interruption and probably other economic reasons.
But how would this new HC110 differ from the old one?
I bought three or four bottles of the new HC110 formula Catalog #105-8692 from Film Photography Project shortly after reading Leslie Lazenby's confidence-instilling article regarding her preliminary testing. While I encourage everyone to read her detailed report, for the purposes of this article, spoiler alert, Leslie concluded that there was no practical difference in the formulae. This new HC110 can be used at precisely the same times and temperatures at the old HC110.
Left to Right: A spent bottle of NEW HC110, My last bottle of OLD HC110 and an unopened bottle of NEW HC110 | © 2021 Johnny Martyr
The old HC110 Catalog #501-0541 has been being made in Germany, in a translucent squared off 1 liter bottle for about as long as Kodak Alaris has been in charge. This formula so far as I know, had been the same for decades. Film shooters recognize it for having a pronounced yellow color and maple syrupy viscosity.
The new Catalog #105-8692 HC110 is made in the United States and is not syrupy at all - it's pretty watery. And it's color is also not bright yellow. The new HC110 presents like an untrustworthy direct replacement because it looks and pours very differently. But, I trusted Leslie's findings and Kodak's commitment to the film community!
Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 90mm Summicron Pre-ASPH | Kodak TMAX 100 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr
During the COVID lockdowns of 2020, with slower business, I took the opportunity to finally crack open this mysterious new HC110 and be sure that it rang true for my particular workflow.
I use HC110 Dilution B primarily with Kodak TMAX 100, Tri-X 400 at both 400 and 1600, and TMAX P3200 at 6400. So the goal was to try the new HC110 with all these and make no changes in how I normally process. Below are my usual times and temps, which I applied to use with the new HC110.
Kodak TMAX 100 - Kodak HC110 Dilution B at 68 ° F for 7 minutes
Kodak Tri-X 400 - Kodak HC110 Dilution B at 68 ° F for 7.5 minutes
Kodak Tri-X 400 at EL 1600 - Kodak HC110 Dilution B at 68 ° F for 16 minutes
Kodak TMAX P3200 at EL 6400 - Kodak HC110 Dilution B at 68 ° F for 11.5 minutes
Now, I didn't go to the trouble of processing side-by-side sample images in both the old and new developer but I am confident that after nearly two decades of use, I understand how HC110 performs to notice an appreciable difference.
Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 90mm Summicron Pre-ASPH | Kodak TMAX 100 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr
I can happily say that, like Leslie, I saw absolutely zero differences in my results with this watery new American HC110. There are, however, a few differences in use that I'd like to discuss.
The first thing, of course, is the viscosity. Those of us who spent years using HC110 might have an odd emotional attachment to the syrup, but in all reality, the new HC110 pours and mixes faster and probably more thoroughly. There is no more up-ending the bottle and waiting tediously for the very last drops to fall into the graduate. Working with the new HC110 is more like working with liquid Kodafix or Stop in regards to its viscosity. This isn't a big deal but it's a small advantage in my eyes.
Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 90mm Summicron Pre-ASPH | Kodak TMAX 100 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr 1930 Leica III | Leitz 5cm f2 Summar | Kodak Tri-X 400 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr
The other difference that I found is a bit of a concern.
I burned through a couple bottles of the new HC110 during the spring and summer of 2020 as I churned through some backlog and new personal images, continuing to do client work in old HC110. Everything went smoothly.
I opened a bottle of the new Catalog #105-8692 HC110 on February 13th, 2021. I used it for a few sessions that continued to go smoothly. But then, on May 4th, 2021, about three cold/cool months since I opened this bottle (manufactured 08/10/2020 with an expiration date of 08/2022, Batch #11697), I first noticed something odd.
I picked up the bottle of new HC110 and heard a light clinking in the bottom of the bottle that sounded like ice cubes in a drink. I looked and could see some white/yellow/brown chunks of crystal settled in the bottle.
I was careful not to pour the crystals into my graduate, allowing them to collect at the neck area of the bottle without actually coming out. This method worked fine and the film that I processed came out just as it should.
Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 90mm Summicron Pre-ASPH | Kodak Tri-X 400 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr
I did a little reading and found that some other folks have had this issue and others have not. In fact, Leslie's original article didn't mention them. I reached out to her to see if she had these elusive, mysterious HC110 crystals by now also.
" Yes I have them. I warmed the bottle and much of it dissolved back into the solution, but not all. I suspect they will come back as it sits and cools. I usually give the bottle one gentle inversion before use and they immediately went to the bottom and since I draw my chemistry from the top [using a syringe] it is not a bother. Rather than filter them out I would leave them there."
Nikon FM2n | Nikkor 55mm 2.8 AIS | Kodak Tri-X 400 rated at & processed for 1600 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr
Elsewhere I read that the Kodak Alaris customer support told inquiring folks that the crystals are comprised of potassium salt and are not a problem so long as they do not leave the bottle. I decided to reach out to Michael Seaberg of Kodak's chemical division, SinoPromise Group. I told Mr. Seaberg about my recent experience, to which he replied:
" We have advised other customers that the product is ok to use by decanting the liquid, and it is good you found this by your own testing. We think the issue is solved in our newer batches but need extended keeping time to confirm."
I asked if there was some way that film shooters could identify if their HC110 might be affected by crystal formation.
" I checked on [your] batch number [Batch #11697] which was made in August 2020. We made an adjustment after this batch so batches with expiration of 08/2022 or earlier, under certain conditions, could crystallize. The next batch we made has an expiration of 11/2022 and we have made three more batches thus far in 2021 (with expiration dates of 2023)."
Nikon F2sb | Nikkor 50mm 1.4 S.C. Pre-AI |Kodak TMAX P3200 rated at & processed for 6400 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr Nikon F2sb | Nikkor 50mm 1.4 S.C. Pre-AI | Kodak TMAX P3200 rated at & processed for 6400 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr
Feeling pretty confident with my tests on personal photos, I went ahead and began processing client photos with the new HC110, both before and after crystal formation. The photos featured in this article were all processed with a bottle of HC110 AFTER the crystals had formed. Yet all my results have been excellent and consistent - insofar as the development anyway. The photographer, however, could always use some improvement!
But my point is, if you have some New HC110, are considering buying it, or have already found crystals in your bottle, don 't panic! It's alright! Kodak is taking care of it and your photos will turn out wonderfully.
I'll look forward to a crystal-free New HC110 and am happy to hear that Kodak are aware of the issue and have worked to resolve it. I'd be curious if you have found crystals in your new HC110 and what it's expiration is. Or if you share my opinions about its reliability or not. In any case, hopefully these photos and comments will instill some confidence for those who have been questioning the change to their classic Kodak developer.
Thanks for reading and happy shooting!
_Follow, Favorite, Like, Add, Insult, ContactJohnny Martyr _
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I'm not usually one for human interaction. Part of the reason I got into photography was so that I would have something to hide behind at social gatherings. So it's not often that I meet up with other photographers. But this past Friday night, that's exactly what I found myself doing when fellow photobloggers Mark Faulkner and Mike Eckman invited me out for drinks.
For the uninitiated, Mark is the author of The GAS Haus - an unfathomably extensive list of Mark's personal collection of film cameras with descriptions of each model. I know Mark, not only from his website but because I was his wedding photographer.
Mark Faulkner's wedding by Johnny Martyr - Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 90mm f2 Summicron E55 | Kodak Tri-X 400 | Kodak HC110b
Mike Eckman authors another camera review site wherein he describes not only the features but also history and context around each model in textbook quality detail. You may recall that Mike lent me several Leica copies some time ago which inspired a blog mini-series.
Mike Eckman and Johnny Martyr -smiling behind the masks!
The three of us met up at Smoketown Brewing Station in Frederick Maryland and the first round was on me.
Mark donned a plastic shopping bag of recent acquisitions from the local antique shops. I brought my Leica M6 TTL with 50mm 1.5 Summarit. Mike came empty-handed but was enthusiastic to take the Leica out from under my nose while I sipped on my Smoketown Gandy stout.
Through the din of live music and bar chatter, Mark went over his new Graphic 35 Jet, a peculiar American rangefinder from the early 60's with the coolest focusing control I've ever seen. You can read about them on Mike's page. Mark also scooped up a Mamiya Sekor TL. I thought I recognized the Mamiya because it was missing its hot shoe. I'd passed on both these cameras before picking up a Yashica A at the same antique mall a couple years back. It was good to know that even if I couldn't do anything with these cameras, Mark would find a good home for them. And I didn't yet realise how well this would be proven later.
As I talked to Mark, from the corner of my eye, I could see Eckman squinting behind the Leica's viewfinder. An M3 owner, Mike seemed very comfortable with the M6 TTL and verified that my viewfinder is brighter than his. Take that M3 die-hards.
Looks like Mike burned the very first shot on the roll of Kodak TMAX P3200 that was loaded.
*taken by Mike Eckman - Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
The bartender came over and explained that her teenage daughter was interested in film photography. She asked us how to get her started with it. Mike leapt into a speech so accurately and confidently delivered that I got the impression that he visits bars all across North America to inspire new shooters. Instead of trying to paraphrase his wise words, I'll just recommend that you follow Mike's media as linked throughout my blog. He's very committed and honest in all he says and posts.
Mike Eckman by Johnny Martyr - Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
After the bartender disappeared into the darkness, we started talking about the survival of film photography. Mike and Mark's websites motivate people to give vintage cameras a try. To learn to use and appreciate what's come before us. Mike pointed out that I'm unique because I actually shoot film professionally. It's not the first time he's said this and while I know that there are actually many film shooters at work, I appreciate the recognition. It's cool that we're all doing different things that inspire us and might, consequently, inspire others.
Mike talked about his recently launched podcast called Camerosity, wherein I apparently came up in conversation. Not really wanting to hear what terrible things might have been said about me, I interrupted to make it clear that one of the reasons I don't listen to many podcasts is the excessive personal banter in some. And yet here I am posting a blog nearly completely comprised of just that! But be patient, there's a cool thing about to happen and a reason that I typed this up, I swear!
Mark Faulkner by Johnny Martyr - Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
And that cool thing was about to happen. I guess that an epiphany struck Mark as we were talking. He called the bartender over and pulled the Mamiya out of his bag. Mark explained that he'd like to give it to her daughter. The bartender was astounded. I couldn't help but get caught up in the moment so I pulled a roll of Tri-X from my pocket to contribute some fire to the torch that Mark was passing on.
Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
A few moments later, a very excited teenager appeared. Mark kindly showed her how to load the Mamiya and gave her a quick prepper on use. Soon her dad came over and thanked us profusely also. Photo-nerds for the win!
And guess what? I was off the hook for paying for drinks too; they were on the house as a thank-you.
So I ordered another Gandy stout. And took a photo of it.
Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
There may be all kinds of online, in-community bickering over this camera and film or that. Mike may get angry DM's about how irresponsible it was for him to exclude some faint bit of historical minutia in a review. I may be a shitty photographer. And Mark, well Mark may well just have a buying problem! We practice photography in different ways with different gear and different intentions and outcomes. But at the core of it all, we care deeply about film photography. And this little bar excursion reminded me of all the things that I love about film photography and our diverse and interesting community. Let's keep it going everyone!
Thanks for reading and happy shooting!
_Follow, Favorite, Like, Add, Insult, ContactJohnny Martyr _
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I'm not usually one for human interaction. Part of the reason I got into photography was so that I would have something to hide behind at social gatherings. So it's not often that I meet up with other photographers. But this past Friday night, that's exactly what I found myself doing when fellow photobloggers Mark Faulkner and Mike Eckman invited me out for drinks.
For the uninitiated, Mark is the author of The GAS Haus - an unfathomably extensive list of Mark's personal collection of film cameras with descriptions of each model. I know Mark, not only from his website but because I was his wedding photographer.
Mark Faulkner's wedding by Johnny Martyr - Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 90mm f2 Summicron E55 | Kodak Tri-X 400 | Kodak HC110b
Mike Eckman authors another camera review site wherein he describes not only the features but also history and context around each model in textbook quality detail. You may recall that Mike lent me several Leica copies some time ago which inspired a blog mini-series.
Mike Eckman and Johnny Martyr -smiling behind the masks!
The three of us met up at Smoketown Brewing Station in Frederick Maryland and the first round was on me.
Mark donned a plastic shopping bag of recent acquisitions from the local antique shops. I brought my Leica M6 TTL with 50mm 1.5 Summarit. Mike came empty-handed but was enthusiastic to take the Leica out from under my nose while I sipped on my Smoketown Gandy stout.
Through the din of live music and bar chatter, Mark went over his new Graphic 35 Jet, a peculiar American rangefinder from the early 60's with the coolest focusing control I've ever seen. You can read about them on Mike's page. Mark also scooped up a Mamiya Sekor TL. I thought I recognized the Mamiya because it was missing its hot shoe. I'd passed on both these cameras before picking up a Yashica A at the same antique mall a couple years back. It was good to know that even if I couldn't do anything with these cameras, Mark would find a good home for them. And I didn't yet realise how well this would be proven later.
As I talked to Mark, from the corner of my eye, I could see Eckman squinting behind the Leica's viewfinder. An M3 owner, Mike seemed very comfortable with the M6 TTL and verified that my viewfinder is brighter than his. Take that M3 die-hards.
Looks like Mike burned the very first shot on the roll of Kodak TMAX P3200 that was loaded.
*taken by Mike Eckman - Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
The bartender came over and explained that her teenage daughter was interested in film photography. She asked us how to get her started with it. Mike leapt into a speech so accurately and confidently delivered that I got the impression that he visits bars all across North America to inspire new shooters. Instead of trying to paraphrase his wise words, I'll just recommend that you follow Mike's media as linked throughout my blog. He's very committed and honest in all he says and posts.
Mike Eckman by Johnny Martyr - Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
After the bartender disappeared into the darkness, we started talking about the survival of film photography. Mike and Mark's websites motivate people to give vintage cameras a try. To learn to use and appreciate what's come before us. Mike pointed out that I'm unique because I actually shoot film professionally. It's not the first time he's said this and while I know that there are actually many film shooters at work, I appreciate the recognition. It's cool that we're all doing different things that inspire us and might, consequently, inspire others.
Mike talked about his recently launched podcast called Camerosity, wherein I apparently came up in conversation. Not really wanting to hear what terrible things might have been said about me, I interrupted to make it clear that one of the reasons I don't listen to many podcasts is the excessive personal banter in some. And yet here I am posting a blog nearly completely comprised of just that! But be patient, there's a cool thing about to happen and a reason that I typed this up, I swear!
Mark Faulkner by Johnny Martyr - Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
And that cool thing was about to happen. I guess that an epiphany struck Mark as we were talking. He called the bartender over and pulled the Mamiya out of his bag. Mark explained that he'd like to give it to her daughter. The bartender was astounded. I couldn't help but get caught up in the moment so I pulled a roll of Tri-X from my pocket to contribute some fire to the torch that Mark was passing on.
Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
A few moments later, a very excited teenager appeared. Mark kindly showed her how to load the Mamiya and gave her a quick prepper on use. Soon her dad came over and thanked us profusely also. Photo-nerds for the win!
And guess what? I was off the hook for paying for drinks too; they were on the house as a thank-you.
So I ordered another Gandy stout. And took a photo of it.
Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 50mm 1.5 Summarit | Kodak TMAX P3200 @ 6400 | Kodak HC110b
There may be all kinds of online, in-community bickering over this camera and film or that. Mike may get angry DM's about how irresponsible it was for him to exclude some faint bit of historical minutia in a review. I may be a shitty photographer. And Mark, well Mark may well just have a buying problem! We practice photography in different ways with different gear and different intentions and outcomes. But at the core of it all, we care deeply about film photography. And this little bar excursion reminded me of all the things that I love about film photography and our diverse and interesting community. Let's keep it going everyone!
Thanks for reading and happy shooting!
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These Photos Were Processed In Kodak’s New HC110 In Spite of The Product’s Single Flaw
In early 2019, the film community was pretty stressed out, and with good reason. The nearly two century old chemical manufacturer, Tetenal appeared close to shutting down. Many photographers have probably never even heard of this company, but Tetenal has been "the man behind the curtain" for many of Kodak's products for decades.
The product that Tetenal made that is close to the heart of my work was Kodak HC110, a classic, flexible b&w film developer that is ideal for producing high acutance negatives and push processing while retaining detail.
The possibility of running out of HC110 and having to adopt a new go-to developer was a scary proposition with paid photography work lined up for 2019. Though I'm not a fan of panic-buying, I decided to stock up on Catalog #501-0541 HC110 to get in front of any shortages.
I breathed a sigh of relief when, before the end of 2019, Kodak released a new HC110 formula to address the Tetenal supply interruption and probably other economic reasons.
But how would this new HC110 differ from the old one?
I bought three or four bottles of the new HC110 formula Catalog #105-8692 from Film Photography Project shortly after reading Leslie Lazenby's confidence-instilling article regarding her preliminary testing. While I encourage everyone to read her detailed report, for the purposes of this article, spoiler alert, Leslie concluded that there was no practical difference in the formulae. This new HC110 can be used at precisely the same times and temperatures at the old HC110.
Left to Right: A spent bottle of NEW HC110, My last bottle of OLD HC110 and an unopened bottle of NEW HC110 | © 2021 Johnny Martyr
The old HC110 Catalog #501-0541 has been being made in Germany, in a translucent squared off 1 liter bottle for about as long as Kodak Alaris has been in charge. This formula so far as I know, had been the same for decades. Film shooters recognize it for having a pronounced yellow color and maple syrupy viscosity.
The new Catalog #105-8692 HC110 is made in the United States and is not syrupy at all - it's pretty watery. And it's color is also not bright yellow. The new HC110 presents like an untrustworthy direct replacement because it looks and pours very differently. But, I trusted Leslie's findings and Kodak's commitment to the film community!
Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 90mm Summicron Pre-ASPH | Kodak TMAX 100 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr
During the COVID lockdowns of 2020, with slower business, I took the opportunity to finally crack open this mysterious new HC110 and be sure that it rang true for my particular workflow.
I use HC110 Dilution B primarily with Kodak TMAX 100, Tri-X 400 at both 400 and 1600, and TMAX P3200 at 6400. So the goal was to try the new HC110 with all these and make no changes in how I normally process. Below are my usual times and temps, which I applied to use with the new HC110.
Kodak TMAX 100 - Kodak HC110 Dilution B at 68 ° F for 7 minutes
Kodak Tri-X 400 - Kodak HC110 Dilution B at 68 ° F for 7.5 minutes
Kodak Tri-X 400 at EL 1600 - Kodak HC110 Dilution B at 68 ° F for 16 minutes
Kodak TMAX P3200 at EL 6400 - Kodak HC110 Dilution B at 68 ° F for 11.5 minutes
Now, I didn't go to the trouble of processing side-by-side sample images in both the old and new developer but I am confident that after nearly two decades of use, I understand how HC110 performs to notice an appreciable difference.
Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 90mm Summicron Pre-ASPH | Kodak TMAX 100 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr
I can happily say that, like Leslie, I saw absolutely zero differences in my results with this watery new American HC110. There are, however, a few differences in use that I'd like to discuss.
The first thing, of course, is the viscosity. Those of us who spent years using HC110 might have an odd emotional attachment to the syrup, but in all reality, the new HC110 pours and mixes faster and probably more thoroughly. There is no more up-ending the bottle and waiting tediously for the very last drops to fall into the graduate. Working with the new HC110 is more like working with liquid Kodafix or Stop in regards to its viscosity. This isn't a big deal but it's a small advantage in my eyes.
Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 90mm Summicron Pre-ASPH | Kodak TMAX 100 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr 1930 Leica III | Leitz 5cm f2 Summar | Kodak Tri-X 400 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr
The other difference that I found is a bit of a concern.
I burned through a couple bottles of the new HC110 during the spring and summer of 2020 as I churned through some backlog and new personal images, continuing to do client work in old HC110. Everything went smoothly.
I opened a bottle of the new Catalog #105-8692 HC110 on February 13th, 2021. I used it for a few sessions that continued to go smoothly. But then, on May 4th, 2021, about three cold/cool months since I opened this bottle (manufactured 08/10/2020 with an expiration date of 08/2022, Batch #11697), I first noticed something odd.
I picked up the bottle of new HC110 and heard a light clinking in the bottom of the bottle that sounded like ice cubes in a drink. I looked and could see some white/yellow/brown chunks of crystal settled in the bottle.
I was careful not to pour the crystals into my graduate, allowing them to collect at the neck area of the bottle without actually coming out. This method worked fine and the film that I processed came out just as it should.
Leica M6 TTL 0.85 | Leitz 90mm Summicron Pre-ASPH | Kodak Tri-X 400 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr
I did a little reading and found that some other folks have had this issue and others have not. In fact, Leslie's original article didn't mention them. I reached out to her to see if she had these elusive, mysterious HC110 crystals by now also.
" Yes I have them. I warmed the bottle and much of it dissolved back into the solution, but not all. I suspect they will come back as it sits and cools. I usually give the bottle one gentle inversion before use and they immediately went to the bottom and since I draw my chemistry from the top [using a syringe] it is not a bother. Rather than filter them out I would leave them there."
Nikon FM2n | Nikkor 55mm 2.8 AIS | Kodak Tri-X 400 rated at & processed for 1600 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr
Elsewhere I read that the Kodak Alaris customer support told inquiring folks that the crystals are comprised of potassium salt and are not a problem so long as they do not leave the bottle. I decided to reach out to Michael Seaberg of Kodak's chemical division, SinoPromise Group. I told Mr. Seaberg about my recent experience, to which he replied:
" We have advised other customers that the product is ok to use by decanting the liquid, and it is good you found this by your own testing. We think the issue is solved in our newer batches but need extended keeping time to confirm."
I asked if there was some way that film shooters could identify if their HC110 might be affected by crystal formation.
" I checked on [your] batch number [Batch #11697] which was made in August 2020. We made an adjustment after this batch so batches with expiration of 08/2022 or earlier, under certain conditions, could crystallize. The next batch we made has an expiration of 11/2022 and we have made three more batches thus far in 2021 (with expiration dates of 2023)."
Nikon F2sb | Nikkor 50mm 1.4 S.C. Pre-AI |Kodak TMAX P3200 rated at & processed for 6400 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr Nikon F2sb | Nikkor 50mm 1.4 S.C. Pre-AI | Kodak TMAX P3200 rated at & processed for 6400 | NEW Kodak HC110b | © 2021 Johnny Martyr
Feeling pretty confident with my tests on personal photos, I went ahead and began processing client photos with the new HC110, both before and after crystal formation. The photos featured in this article were all processed with a bottle of HC110 AFTER the crystals had formed. Yet all my results have been excellent and consistent - insofar as the development anyway. The photographer, however, could always use some improvement!
But my point is, if you have some New HC110, are considering buying it, or have already found crystals in your bottle, don 't panic! It's alright! Kodak is taking care of it and your photos will turn out wonderfully.
I'll look forward to a crystal-free New HC110 and am happy to hear that Kodak are aware of the issue and have worked to resolve it. I'd be curious if you have found crystals in your new HC110 and what it's expiration is. Or if you share my opinions about its reliability or not. In any case, hopefully these photos and comments will instill some confidence for those who have been questioning the change to their classic Kodak developer.
Thanks for reading and happy shooting!
_Follow, Favorite, Like, Add, Insult, ContactJohnny Martyr _
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![image](https://onfilmonly.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Voigtlander-Snapshot-Skopar-25mm-F4-MC-Lens-Finder.-Leica-L39.-M39-Screw-1.png" width=)
The Leica M6 is probably one of the most desired film camera but for many people shooting with a rangefinder is something new. With that come many questions and some of them that you can't really anticipate without having one in hands for some time.
It's been 4 years that I use mine regularly so I thought it could be interesting to share with you my little experience with this camera and answer the 10 most frequently asked question about the M6.
I've divided this article in two sections with a first part focused on practical and factual questions while the second part is more about opinion and advices. If you're looking for an answer to a specific question, use the Table of Contents below so you can skip all the boring parts.
Leica M6 Practical questions
What Is The Leica M6?
The Leica M6 is a rangefinder film camera. It's a manual focus and mechanical camera without any automatic features. The only electronic part is for the built-in light meter. Shutter speeds go from 1 to 1/1000 th of second. There's also a bulb mode if needed. The ISO range goes from the 6 to 6400 ISO and it has a hot shoe flash synced to 1/50th sec.
Best Leica M6 Finder Magnification: 0.58x, 0.72x or 0.85x?
This is a big deal and I want to start right off with the finder because it is the most important factor to consider when buying an M6 or a rangefinder in general. Choosing the right finder is essential to suit your style of shooting and preferred focal lengths.
The most common finder you'll encounter is the 0.72x— but there are also finders with a 0.58x or 0.85x magnification and each of them are suited for different set of focal lengths.
- 0.72x Finder: This is the standard finder comes with 3 sets of frame lines pairs so 6 different focal lengths in total, which are the: 28-90, 35-135 and 50-75.
- 0.85x Finder: On this one you loose the 28mm and get the 35-135, 50-75 and a stand-alone 90 frame. If you like shooting with longer lenses this could be a good option for you.
- 0.58x Finder: Here you loose the 135mm but get extra space around the widest 28mm frame and comes with the following pairs: 28-90, 50-75, and a stand-alone 35mm frame.
The first version of the M6 which is referred as the "M6 Classic" came with a 0.72x finder. Apparently some of the Classics can also be found with a 0.85x finder but most of the time you will find the alternative finders on the M6 TTL.
If you want to use a focal length that doesn't fall on any of these tramlines, you would have to rely on an external viewfinder to compose the shot and use the main finder to focus and get the meter reading. This complicates a bit the shooting experience in my opinion.
For longer focal you'll see some lenses with googles attached to it but they are not ideal because they tend to be heavy and if you're shooting handled, it can be a little uncomfortable so better choosing the right finder first that fix it later.
Does The Leica M6 Have A Light Meter?
Yes, the M6 was the first Leica camera with a built-in LED light meter. It takes x2 LR44 batteries to operate and is activated when you half press the shutter release. To make sure the meter reading is accurate, set the correct ISO on the back panel. Press and turn the wheel until it matches your film's ISO. If you want to push or pull film, there's no exposure compensation on this camera so simply set it to the desired film sensitivity.
How To Load Film In The Leica M6 (or M4, M4-2, M7, MP, MA)
Loading a Leica M6 is quite different than a SLR or earlier Leicas like the M3. On the M6 you have to remove the bottom plate, open the flip cover and slide the film right inside by making sure the film tip reaches the center of the take-up spool. Close the cover and lock the bottom plate to automatically align the film and engaged it in the gears. Wind 2 times and make sure that you see the rewind knob turning when you wind the film. If it doesn't move, you film is not properly engaged.
Is Leica M6 Weatherproof?
The short answer is NO. The M6 is not weather sealed but Leica M have been the cameras of choice for many photo journalists. They took their cameras on many perilous adventures around the globe and have been exposed to really tough grounds. So don't worry too much if your Leica gets a little wet. If it's salty water make sure to clean thoroughly to avoid corrosion. This is not related to the camera but using a UV filter can also help preventing moisture getting inside your lens.
What Are The Differences Between The Leica M6 Classic & TTL?
At first glance, there's not much difference between those two but if you look at the TTL top plate, the first thing you'll notice is the bigger, and easier to reach, shutter speed dial. If you can afford the extra bucks, the TTL is easier to use and the dial rotation matches the light meter arrows direction inside the viewfinder. On the M6 Classic the arrow points towards one direction but you have to spin the shutter speed dial on the opposite direction to get the correct exposure. Even after 4 years it still confuses me so I prefer the TTL for that reason.
I forgot to include that part on my video review but there's a slight difference on how the meter works between the M6 Classic and TLL version. On the Classic you 2 LEDs arrows pointing in different directions depending if you're under or over exposed. When the exposure is correct both arrows are lit up.
Leica M6 Classic vs TTL Lightmeter.Source
On the TTL you have an extra LED dot between both arrows which lits up when exposure is spot on. In my opinion it's a little more intuitive and either to read.
Opinion & Advice
Which Leica M6 Is The Best? Classic VS TTL
This is really a matter of personal preference and there's no right answer here. In my case, I prefer is the M6 TTL with the 0.72x finder. I find the light meter more intuitive and the shutter speed dial easier to adjust. On the M6 Classic it takes a little more effort with the finger to change the speed but it's just me being spoiled. The M6 Classic is perfectly fine to use but if you want a little more confort and can afford the extra cost, then go for a TTL version.
There's also the finder magnification factor to consider depending on which type of lenses you use the most. Most of Leica M photographers live with a 35mm lens attached to their camera and prefer the 0.72x finder but some will only swear by the 0.58x or 0.85x finders. Again just a matter of which focal length you're shooting the most often.
Another difference is the TTL capability that is important if you're planing to shoot with a flash.
What Makes A Leica M6 The Best Camera For Street Photography?
It's all about the rangefinder. On a SLR camera you're seing though the lens but on a rangefinder you're looking at the scene through a deported window. This allows you to see outside the frame and anticipate elements coming in. The extra space around also help seing the bigger picture if I may say and fine tune your composition. Just remember that depending on the lens you use and your finder magnification, you will see more or lens space around the frame. For example, on the 0.72x finder with a 28mm lens, you have almost no space around the frame. The ideal focal in this case is the 35mm because it has enough room around but you still get a pretty large frame to compose your shot.
Rangefinder cameras and lenses also tend to be smaller and quieter than SLR equivalents. This is because there's no mirror behind the lens back element is closer to the film's surface. The trade-off is that all Leica M lenses are manual focus only but you can easily overcome this limitation by using zone focusing to determine a range that you want in focus. Most street photographers will zone focus and always be ready for the shot. This beats any autofocus camera. Head to this article for more info about [What Is& How To Use Zone Focusing?](https://onfilmonly.com/how-to-sunny-16-zone-focus-on-leica-m3-rangefinder/#What_Is_How_To_Use_Zone_Focusing)
How Much Cost A Leica M6?
in 2020 a Leica M6 Classic in good condition goes for approximately 1500€ whereas a TTL is more around 2000€. This is for the normal version but prices can go a lot higher for limited series that Leica has the secret off!
Keep in mind that a M6 requires a CLA (Clean, Lubricate & Adjust) about every 10 years and cost in average 300 to 500€, depending on who's servicing your camera. Leica parts are also expensive and require the right skills and tools to be changed so don't be tempted to buy a cheaper one that needs some sort of repairs.
I recently bumped the review knob on my M6 and realised that it's going to cost me a half leg getting it replaced because the internal axis is also probably bent
Is The Leica M6 Worth It?
The question should the other way around: Are you worth a Leica M6? When I made my permanent move to film and sold all my digital equipment I was with a pretty good load of cash in my hands and figured why not buying an M6. After years of shooting with SLR I didn't anticipate all the differences between those two worlds and it took me a while getting used to it. We are animals of habits and we tend to get a little on the fence when these habits are changed. At first I was a little confused and didn't appreciate it to its real value.
If you've never shot a rangefinder camera before, try borrowing one and shoot at least a roll with and see how the rangefinder system works for you. Once you're certain this is the right tool for you, then YES the Leica M6 is definitely worth it. These cameras are almost unbreakable and require very little maintenance. Again apart from the electronic light meter, this is a purely mechanical camera that will outlast all of us.
They can also be a very good investment as their value keep going up every year and if you don't abuse of it, an M6 will never loose value.
Best Leica M6 Alternatives?
There are many good alternatives to the Leica M6 but it all comes down to you budget and what you expect from your camera.
I've picked a few camera from my stash that have the most in common with the M6 but still bring something different to the table and that can fit smaller budgets.
Leica M3
The M3 was the first and probably most successful model of the M series. It's 100% mechanical and doesn't have a light meter. Some of the most significant innovations of the M3 were the combination of viewfinder and rangefinder patch into one the same window, the now famous bayonet Leica M mount(earlier Leica's were using screw mount lenses), and quick film advance lever.
What makes the M3 unique is the 0.91x viewfinder which fits a bright and large 50mm frame line but that's as wide as it can go so if you plan on shooting with wider lenses, I'd stay away from the M3.
Contax T
The most pocketable rangefinder, a stellar 38mm Carl Zeiss lens, Aperture Priority mode and a sleek design by Porsche. The Contax T is a great all-round camera that you can fit in your pocket and get a fairly similar shooting experience than the M6. I truly love mine and you can see my review of the Contax T here.
Rollei 35S
Similar in size to the Contax T but a completely difference philosophy. The Rollei 35S is similar to the M6 in a sense that's also a mechanical camera and use a battery to power the light meter. It has an absurdly good 40mm lens but there's no rangefinder, and you can only zone focus with this camera. Honestly, if it wouldn't be for that, the 35S would be always with me.
Contax G2
The G2 was more a competitor of the Leica M7 but is also aimed at photographers would appreciate a little help from the camera from time to time. The Contax G2 is an autofocus camera based on a rangefinder system.
The Contax G lens line-up is one of best ever made even with today's standards. I absolutely love my G2 it's one of the cameras I shoot the most.
Apart from these options, the most notorious alternative to the M6 would be the Voigtlander Bessa series or the Zeiss Ikon ZM which seems to be a fantastic rangefinder but never had the chance to use one.
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